Summary
My wife and I visited California’s Catalina Island in late spring of this year, exploring a location I had previously only seen from my college dormitory window but never visited.
We enjoyed our time wandering the quiet waterfront town of Avalon on foot and in an electric golf cart, as visitors are not permitted to bring vehicles on the ferry, and even locals have restrictions regarding car use. Our stay at the Hotel Atwater was pleasant, featuring quality dining, visits to boutique shops, and kayaking in the Pacific Ocean.
Catalina Island
The tourism officials for Catalina and the Catalina Express ferry team also recommended a hike, which sounded fantastic, and coordinated for a guide to escort us. However, the regular guide was not available, so a local named Pastor Lopez was assigned to take us to the hiking area.
Lopez, a man in his mid-70s attired in jeans, a black t-shirt, and a weathered baseball cap, familiarized us with the town. He shared his experience of serving in Vietnam and the health challenges he faced, likely linked to the military’s use of Agent Orange. As we ascended into the hills above town, he informed us that he was a lifelong resident of Avalon (population approximately 3,300), a father of six, and a passionate surfer.
I took an immediate liking to him but developed a strong aversion to the road on which we were traveling.
Challenges of Travel
Avalon is situated at the base of steep mountains, with the only route out of town being very winding and twisting roads. My fear of heights made me uncomfortable with how close we were to a considerable slope that resembled the side of a steep cliff.
“Is it like this all the way?” I asked Pastor, attempting to avert my gaze from the scenery.
“Um,” he responded. “It’s actually worse up ahead.”
Feeling embarrassed, I had to voice my discomfort.
“Pastor, I apologize. I cannot manage this road. We require an alternative plan.”
Alternative Plans
Lopez promptly devised a new itinerary for the morning, taking us to a scenic lookout that provided beautiful views from a gentle slope. I stood securely on the hill, with dusty chaparral beneath my feet, gazing out at the island. To my right, I could see the red-tiled roof of the stunning Catalina Casino, with the blue Pacific providing a perfect backdrop. To my left, an olive-green point of land guarded Two Harbors, a diminutive bay and town with a population of around 300 residents— the only other community on Catalina Island aside from Avalon.
Exploring Haypress Reservoir
While conversing with a friend of his (it appeared he was acquainted with nearly everyone on the island), Lopez mentioned a nearby small and picturesque lake. Perhaps I would consider walking down the road to see it.
Unaware that freshwater lakes existed on the island and knowing I would be walking on a wide road without treacherous cliffs in sight, I found the idea appealing.
Fifteen minutes later, I was standing alongside my wife and Lopez at the shore of a charming freshwater body named Haypress Reservoir. Small hills adorned with light green brush descended on both sides of the water beneath a pristine blue sky scattered with puffy white clouds.
At that moment, I struck luck. While Lopez, my wife, and I were chatting by the lakeshore, a woman drove up in her car.
Local Interactions
“Oh, hey, Pastor. I thought you might be out surfing, but I saw your truck and wanted to say hello,” she remarked.
Lopez introduced us to local artist Robin Cassidy, who created many of the tiles featured in the beautiful fountains of Avalon.
“She designed the ones that still look appealing,” he quipped with a laugh.
Both Cassidy and Lopez were born and raised on the island, and their banter flowed effortlessly, reflecting the charm of stories shared among lifelong residents, which makes sense considering the notable figures like Marilyn Monroe and John Wayne frequented the island.
Cassidy informed me that the original tiles she used for the fountains are quite valuable.
“When I created those in the old days, some colours required uranium,” she added dramatically. “For some reason, I can’t find anyone willing to sell it to me anymore.”
Cassidy operates Silver Canyon Pottery at the edge of Avalon, offering tile-making classes for the public.
As we discussed her tile work, Cassidy recounted how visitors and island residents often inquired if she signed the tiles she crafted for the fountains.
“Why would I do that?” she responded, prompting me to think that the term “unassuming” might have found a new representative.
Wildlife on Catalina Island
As we stood in the shade of a robust tree by the water, Lopez and Cassidy exchanged tales about lost hikers and the island’s notable bison and mule deer. The bison were introduced to the island for a Western film in the 1920s and quickly multiplied. Currently, the island is home to approximately 150 bison, which can be observed during a Catalina Bison Expedition.
The mule deer have a different origin. Initially brought to the island for sport hunting, they multiplied rapidly without natural predators. Estimates suggest their population could be in the thousands, contributing to concerns about the island’s natural environment. Discussions about culling the herd have occurred, including proposals to manage their numbers from helicopters.
This notion left Lopez outraged, a sentiment echoed in later discussions that indicated the plan had been abandoned.
“There aren’t 2,000 of them, and they don’t cause any harm,” he asserted. “Someone once questioned my knowledge of the deer population, asking if I had a PhD. I replied, ‘No, but I’ve lived on this island my entire life. In my view, that upbringing holds more value than a degree.’”
Having dismissed claims of an excess deer population, Lopez and Cassidy began sharing their recommendations for the island’s top hiking experiences. Both highlighted Silver Canyon as a remarkable trek, although one best suited for the physically adept who are familiar with the terrain.
“It’ll challenge you if you’re not prepared,” Cassidy remarked.
Culture of Avalon
It was time for us to return to town, so we climbed into Lopez’s truck and I closed my eyes for the descent. At least this time, I was facing the hillside rather than peering over the edge.
Upon returning to Avalon, Lopez entertained us with tales of William Wrigley Jr., the chewing gum pioneer who acquired a significant stake in the Santa Catalina Island Company and invested substantially to transform it into a tourist attraction. He developed the Hotel Atwater, a previously established aviary called Bird Park, and numerous other projects.
In 1921, he established Avalon as the spring training location for the Chicago Cubs, who trained here for three decades. In 1929, Wrigley constructed the stunning Catalina Casino, notable for having the world’s largest circular ballroom and being the first theatre specifically designed for sound films. Hollywood’s eminent figures would travel the 26 miles across the water for a glamorous evening.
Lopez mentioned that Errol Flynn was a regular visitor, as was John Wayne. The renowned author Zane Grey owned a house on a hill in Avalon, while movie star Tom Mix resided below him. Lopez recounted that Grey and Mix had a contentious relationship. To assert his dominance, Mix inscribed his name in large letters on his roof as a reminder for Flynn.
In 1975, Wrigley’s heirs donated 42,000 acres of Catalina Island to the Catalina Island Conservancy, a non-profit organization established three years prior.
“The Wrigley family genuinely cared for this place,” Lopez explained to me. “It seems more about profit now, with chains encroaching on the island. It’s not the same as it used to be.”
Nevertheless, living in a quaint town like Avalon has its merits. The area boasts an impeccable climate and stunning natural surroundings, coupled with a tight-knit community.
“You don’t steal in Avalon,” Lopez said firmly. “You don’t lie. Everyone knows one another, fostering a profound sense of honesty and respect.”
The bustle of Los Angeles is merely 60 minutes away by boat, yet Avalon possesses a serene atmosphere that feels entirely apart. From the day I first glimpsed the island from my distant dormitory window, it took me half a century to arrive here. Now, I eagerly anticipate my next return.
Visiting Tips
Getting There: The Catalina Express operates ferries to Avalon from Long Beach, San Pedro, and Dana Point, just south of Laguna Beach in Orange County. You may also take a boat from San Pedro to the town of Two Harbors in Catalina. We departed from Long Beach, where a luxurious new Fairmont hotel (Breakers) is opening shortly.
My wife and I had access to the Commodore Lounge on the ferry, which included a complimentary drink on board (options include beer, wine, or a cocktail) and snacks such as cookies or chips. The seating was quite comfortable, featuring fold-down trays for beverages and food. The crossing duration is approximately one hour.
In Long Beach Harbor, you will spot the Queen Mary, a ship that has been docked there since the 1970s. Standard one-way fares for Long Beach to Avalon are $42 for ages 12-54, $37.75 for seniors aged 55 and older, and $32.50 for children. Commodore Lounge fares are an additional $20 in each category. Up to eight daily departures from Long Beach to Avalon make day trips convenient.
Hotel Options
We resided at the Hotel Atwater, which features modern, comfortable rooms and a sleek, airy lobby. Constructed by Wrigley, it opened its doors in 1920. In 2019, the property underwent a substantial renovation. Although our room was modest in size, it offered a pleasant queen bed and a small refrigerator. Guests receive two complimentary bottles of sparkling wine on their arrival day. Additionally, the hotel offers a $20 per room per night food and beverage credit applicable at Bistro at the Atwater, Avalon Grille, or Descanso Beach Club. Guests also benefit from a 15% discount on Catalina Island Company activities and tours, along with complimentary beach towels.
While our room did not include a coffee maker, complimentary coffee is provided in the lobby from 5:30 to 7 a.m. The hotel is conveniently located approximately a 10-minute walk from the ferry and just a short block from the ocean. The website recently listed a classic queen room for midweek in August at $374, or $324.65 if reserved directly. Banning House Lodge and Villas also offer accommodations in Two Harbors.
Dining Options
Bluewater Grill is an appealing restaurant with an outdoor patio overlooking the harbor. The cod with miso is recommended. We also enjoyed a flavorful mai tai and an excellent margarita with serrano chilies. Avalon Grille serves a robust old-fashioned that intriguingly includes a slice of bacon. Their Wrigley Martini with gin and green olives is also noteworthy. The Naughty Fox is known for its delightful blackened shrimp with rice, accompanied by toasted coconut and mango, all set in a lovely patio atmosphere. M Restaurant serves a generous salad featuring wild arugula, walnuts, goat cheese, and dried cranberries. Be sure to try the blackened Arctic Char or the spicy Penne Arrabiata with shrimp. The Bistro at the Atwater is praised for its excellent breakfast burrito and avocado toast.
Shopping
Crescent Street, running alongside the waterfront, is lined with restaurants, t-shirt and surf shops, as well as a few galleries. I found Island Threadz to have the finest selection of t-shirts.
Boating
Kayaks are available for rent at multiple locations in Avalon. We obtained ours at the Descanso Beach Club, a short distance from the town, and appreciated the tranquil paddle. Visit Catalina Island operates numerous boat tours, including glass-bottom boat trips, submarine excursions, and journeys to Two Harbors.
Land Tours and Zip Lines
Visit Catalina Island organizes various land-based tours, such as a bison expedition and a Journey to the Sky experience, which we briefly encountered. They also feature a Zip Line Eco Tour.
Catalina Casino
While the casino does not host gambling, it is home to the impressive Avalon Theatre, one of the earliest theatres designed explicitly for sound films. Expect to see solid black walnut panels and Art Deco furnishings in a building dating back to 1929. Films are screened on Friday and Saturday evenings, and the upstairs ballroom was once a renowned gathering place for movie stars and other celebrities. Tours of the casino are available.
Other Sights and Activities
Visitors are prohibited from bringing cars to the island, and rentals are not available. Therefore, an alternative option is to rent a golf cart. We explored Avalon for a couple of hours, enjoying spectacular views from the hills while admiring the charming houses. Expect to spend around $60 for an hour, which is sufficient to capture the main attractions of the town.
The Wrigley Memorial and Botanical Garden is a beautiful location situated within a canyon, showcasing plants endemic to the island. The memorial is constructed from local stone, complete with a fountain and accented by vibrant blue Catalina tiles.
The Catalina Museum for Art and History provides insights into the island’s rich history.
The Catalina Island Golf Course, located in a canyon, offers stunning vistas. It is a nine-hole, par-32 course. The fees are $40 for nine holes and $60 for eighteen holes, with both carts and clubs available for rent.
Unofficial Song of Catalina Island
The lively tune “26 Miles (Santa Catalina)” gained fame through a group called The Four Preps in the late 1950s. I highly recommend listening to it prior to your visit, as well as during the ferry ride.
Local Recommendation
The Avalon Graveyard provides a tranquil setting on the town’s edge. During our visit around Veterans Day, numerous small U.S. flags adorned the headstones and greenery. “I was once in charge of public works and managed the cemetery,” Lopez informed me. “I laid many people to rest there, including my parents. It’s a hidden spot that not many are aware of.”
