Discover Caserta: Italy’s Hidden Gem
- Introduction to Caserta
- Exploring Reggia di Caserta
- Savoring Pizza at I Masanielli
A Rome-based travel writer takes us to the little-known town of Caserta — and shows us why it’s the perfect off-the-beaten-path destination in Italy.
Did you know that Italy has a royal palace that rivals Versailles in size and splendor? Located about 40 minutes north of Naples, the Reggia di Caserta was built in the 18th century by King Charles III (known as Charles of Bourbon), who looked to the famous French palace for inspiration. Designed by Luigi Vanvitelli, the Reggia di Caserta features 1,200 rooms, a 123-hectare royal park, and English gardens with more than 200 species of plants and 24 sculptures. However, many people remain unaware of this stunning site.
The palace welcomed 770,000 visitors in 2022, which may seem substantial; however, this number pales in comparison to the approximately 10 to 15 million people that visit Versailles annually. As a curious traveler, I was eager to explore this under-the-radar palace. My husband suggested we not only visit the palace but also dine at Pizzeria I Masanielli di Francesco Martucci in Caserta, which was crowned the best pizzeria in the world by Top 50 Pizza in 2022. I organized our trip to include both attractions, ensuring we would enjoy award-winning pizza after our visit to the palace. Our lodging for the night was a charming bed-and-breakfast called A Corte before returning to Rome the following day.
It takes a couple of hours to reach Caserta from Rome, so we left in the morning and arrived before lunchtime. Not wanting to spoil our appetites, we decided to grab sandwiches at the café inside the Reggia before exploring.
Walking through the royal apartments, it was easy to understand why the palace is often compared to Versailles. The throne room stretches over 130 feet long, adorned with ornate gilded moldings. The throne itself is a masterpiece made of carved and gilded wood with light blue velvet upholstery.
We explored a series of rooms, each showcasing a unique aspect of the palace’s history. Some rooms boasted painted ceilings, while others featured chandeliers crafted from crystal or Murano glass. The recently reopened 19th-century wing featured opulent four-poster beds and lavish antiques. I was particularly fascinated by the original red granite bathtub and Carrara marble dressing table, as well as a library containing a telescope and antique globe. The presence of modern art in certain rooms was quite unexpected but did not detract from the beauty of the palace.
Renovations are ongoing in the room dedicated to Mars and throughout the palace’s expansive grounds, which extend for nearly two miles. As we strolled through the Royal Park towards the English Garden, we admired the neoclassical statues of Apollo and the nine muses, accompanied by spectacular fountains along a via d’acqua. Numerous fountains depicted sea monsters, while others showcased ancient deities like Ceres, Venus, and Diana. The gently sloping via d’acqua led us to a stunning waterfall, the source of water for the surrounding fountains. Gazing back at the palace, we appreciated the remarkable view, relishing the fact that we felt as if we had the palace and gardens all to ourselves.
Later that evening, after exploring the Medieval quarter of the city above the palace, we were astounded by the flavors and textures of the pizza at I Masanielli. Francesco Martucci is renowned for incorporating haute cuisine techniques—such as flash freezing, sous vide cooking, dehydrating, and fermenting—into his exceptional pizzas. Although Napoli is famously regarded as the birthplace of pizza, the pizzaioli of Caserta have taken it to new heights. Upon returning to Rome the next day, I made a reservation at Pepe in Grani, whose owner, Franco Pepe, is a pioneer of gourmet pizzerias like I Masanielli, noted for his appearance on the Netflix series Chef’s Table: Pizza.
Having dined at both pizzerias and returned to the Reggia di Caserta twice since that initial trip, I can wholeheartedly affirm that for travelers seeking an off-the-beaten-path experience in Italy, a detour to Caserta is indeed rewarding. Just remember to plan ahead; those pizzerias tend to be fully booked a month or two in advance.
