The picturesque city of Campeche is a relatively undiscovered jewel in the treasure trove of destinations that make up Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula.

The capital of Campeche State, this colonial city was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. One glance explains why: the cobblestone streets and meticulously restored pastel-colored facades of row upon row of Spanish Colonial buildings, along with the intact stone walls of the old city (built to repel pirates in the 17th and 18th centuries), render the entire town postcard-perfect.

However, Campeche has mostly stayed out of the spotlight on this popular peninsula, making it an excellent choice for those seeking a respite from the sometimes-crowded attractions of the Riviera Maya.

Location

Campeche is located southwest of Merida and northeast of Villahermosa, in Campeche State on the Gulf of Mexico. It borders the states of Yucatan, Quintana Roo, and Tabasco.

History

Originally a Mayan village named Kan pech, Campeche was colonized in 1540 by Spanish conquistadors, establishing it as a major trading port. This attention drew pirates, who made repeated attacks on the town during the 1600s. While these invasions were certainly a bane for the Spanish, they became a boon for 20th-century Campechanos, who now trade on the romantic associations with piracy to support tourism, which, along with fishing, remains one of Campeche’s major industries today.

What to See and Do

• Stroll the streets of the centro historico, featuring perfectly preserved Spanish Colonial-era buildings painted in vibrant sorbet shades. While the exteriors are painstakingly restored, peeking inside the barred windows often reveals deserted shells overrun with foliage.
• People-watch in the Plaza Principal, a beautiful square framed by carob trees, with a Rococo-style gazebo at its center. Dominating the east side of the plaza is the magnificent Catedral de Nuestra Senora de la Purisma Concepcion, a stunning Baroque limestone structure with two soaring towers.
• Visit the Museo de la Architecura Maya, located in the Baluarte de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, a 1600s bastion built for protection against pirates. The museum offers a thoughtful overview of Campeche state and Maya archaeological sites.
• Dedicate an afternoon to explore Edzná, the Maya ruins situated approximately 33 miles from the city. This impressive site, enveloped in jungle, is undoubtedly worth a visit.
• Although the waterfront may not compare to the turquoise-blue perfection of Mexico’s Caribbean coast, a walk along the malecon (waterfront promenade) is still worthwhile, especially at sunset when the city is illuminated in glorious relief.

Where to Stay

• Hotel Francis Drake is a mid-priced, centrally located hotel featuring 24 spacious, air-conditioned rooms and an on-site restaurant.
• The popular Monkey Hostel offers 40 beds, balconies overlooking the street, and a lively rooftop bar with breathtaking views of the plaza and cathedral.
• Hotel Castelmar is a historic, 24-room hotel painted in a striking sky-blue, equipped with a swimming pool, shaded terrace, and modern conveniences like Wi-Fi.

Where to Eat and Drink

• La Casa Vieja is perfect for watching the sunset behind the cathedral. Sitting beneath the arches of the restaurant’s romantic colonnaded balcony, patrons can order margaritas and enjoy the changing light on the parroquia.
• Marganzo is well-known for regional specialties such as baby shark panuchos, cochinita pibil, and papadzules. A unique ambiance is added by a roving mariachi band.
• The 24-hour café/restaurant La Parroquia, located in a former garage, is favored by both locals and tourists. While the menu is simple, it’s an inviting space to relax.
• For an authentic local experience, visit Portales de San Martin on Calle 49B in the barrio of San Martin, just outside the city walls. Here, a row of family-run restaurants like Mananitas and Conchita Cervera offers delicious, affordable panuchos and tortas in a lively environment.

Getting There and Around

Campeche’s airport is approximately 4 miles from the center of town, with flights connecting to Mexico City and other destinations. Buses from various locations, including Merida (about a 4-hour journey) and Cancun (approximately 7 hours), arrive at the ADO terminal, which is slightly over a mile from the city center. Taxi fares into the city are reasonable, around 300 pesos.

Once in Campeche, the historic center is easily walkable, as are the nearby barrios. Many hostels offer bicycles for rent, and taxis can be found at the Plaza Principal for longer journeys. For a rickety adventure, consider hopping on one of the local buses that depart from the main market, Mercado Principal, just outside the city walls.