Summary
When I first decided I wanted to see Nepal, I didn’t have much money. However, that didn’t stop me from making this dream come true. The only solution was to embark on my journey on a tight budget, and that’s exactly what I did. I ended up entering Nepal from India, a route I had not initially considered.
How I Entered Nepal from India in Style
Before I even began my travels, I encountered my first hurdle: there were no affordable flights from Europe to Kathmandu. Determined to make it happen, I purchased a one-way flight to New Delhi, India, planning to make my way to Nepal overland. As a single, blonde girl with a large backpack—and this being my first trip to Asia—I was ready for an adventure.
Arrival New Delhi, India
I managed to navigate a local bus to downtown, surviving the bustling chaos during my initial days in the city. While exploring public transportation options for my trip to Nepal, someone suggested visiting Agra first. It was nearby, and skipping it would have been a shame. I agreed and promptly purchased a train ticket to Agra for the following morning.
Agra en route to Nepal
I spent a vibrant day in Agra, visiting the Taj Mahal and ended up in countless photos taken by local families and groups of school kids. Although the attention was overwhelming, I was eager to continue my journey to Nepal.
I bought another train ticket, this time for an overnight ride from Agra to Gorakhpur.
Agra to Gorakhpur by Train
The train ride took a grueling 14 hours. While it could have been a tiresome experience, I spent my time sleeping, sampling less-than-pleasant train food, and chatting with a friendly Indian family, along with a group of pilgrims headed to a Northern Indian temple. I thought I was managing quite well until I disembarked in Gorakhpur.
Train Ride
I initially assumed that I would find an information center where someone could guide me to a bus heading for the Nepali border. What a naive thought! Upon exiting the train, I was met with the familiar chaos of an Indian train station, teeming with people waiting, eating, selling, and living among the hustle and bustle.
My moment of popularity quickly faded, and I slipped back into anonymity amidst the Gorakhpur crowd. I wandered through the throngs, seeking help from those who would notice my plight. Eventually, I managed to catch a bus to Sunauli, but it was already getting late.
Walking to Nepal
My initial plan was to cross the border before sunset and catch an overnight bus to Pokhara, Nepal. However, as I jostled in a bus filled with local villagers and a few chickens, I realized this was not going to happen.
To my astonishment, the bus dropped me off in a village approximately a mile from the border. Now I had to walk to Nepal.
It felt somewhat heroic—me, carrying a giant backpack down the road. I imagined someone might stop me to inquire what I was up to. However, my thoughts were interrupted as I approached the Indian border just as darkness settled in, compounded by a power blackout. The Indian officers checked my passport and waved me into Nepal. For some reason, I felt a great sense of relief that I had finally arrived in Nepal.
After stopping at the immigration office to purchase my visa, I handed a hundred-dollar bill to the officer, who abruptly realized I had forgotten to get my passport stamped when leaving India. Puzzled as to why the Indian officers hadn’t informed me, I considered explaining that the blackout might have caused the oversight. The officer replied, “Of course they love their blackouts. If it’s dark, nobody can see them taking money.”
Then he instructed me to leave my backpack and money with him and walk back to India to get my passport stamped. I hesitated momentarily, but he assured me, “Don’t worry; you’re not in India anymore.” Following his instructions, I walked back.
Getting to Nepal
Once my paperwork was sorted, I sought a bus to Pokhara. Unfortunately, the buses had all departed in the morning. Considering my limited budget, I contemplated spending the night outside.
However, recalling the negative reputation of border towns, I settled for the cheapest “guesthouse” available. The reception area resembled a busy bar filled with local liquor.
When approached by a local who suggested we share a room to save costs, I turned him down. Although he persisted, promising to wake me at 5 a.m. for my bus, I was skeptical yet still took the precaution of locking my door.
My Night at the Border
The night was quite loud, filled with voices from the bar.
True to his word, my unwanted friend knocked vigorously on my door at 5 a.m., urging me to rise and ensure I didn’t miss my bus. Thank you for the free wake-up service, I thought—it comes with the room.
As I boarded the bus for Pokhara, I instantly fell in love with Nepal. It felt incredibly peaceful and laid-back compared to India!
Lessons Learned
My greatest culture shock occurred in Delhi; after that, Nepal felt like a smooth breeze. Nonetheless, I wouldn’t recommend my unorthodox itinerary to fellow travelers.
I was cautious yet incredibly fortunate that I only emerged with quirky stories and fond memories. Since then, I have grown older and considerably more careful, learning valuable lessons along the way.
So if you choose to travel to Nepal following my path, here’s a list of “Don’ts” or rather “Nevers”:
- Never stay in a cheap, dirty place in Delhi where the owner advises caution about other guests.
- Never follow a friendly Indian guy inside his house, even if he offers a city map.
- Never go behind closed doors with a group of men claiming to exchange your dollars for rupees.
- Never arrive at the Indian border town after sunset.
- Never leave your backpack and money unattended.
Looking back at this list, I am astounded that I actually did each of these things. It wasn’t very smart. I managed to survive and vowed to be more cautious next time. After all, there are plenty of adventurous options available for entering Nepal in style.
