1. Introduction
The world’s gourmet greats say Bresse Chickens rule, and we had to try them.
2. The Search for Bresse Chicken
Traveling the back roads of France in our little Renault Clio, we began spotting giant chickens advertising the famous poulet de Bresse. Even renowned chefs seek these tasty morsels clucking contentedly in the countryside; we were eager to follow in their footsteps.
Finding La Maison du Poulet de Bresse
But where can you find the quintessential Bresse chicken in a restaurant without prior research? Here lay the challenge. Heading south toward the bustling town of Bourg-en-Bresse on the N479, a sign caught our eye: a massive chicken painted on a sign in front of La Maison du Poulet de Bresse. It felt like destiny. However, we noticed a tour bus parked alongside, which raised our expectations.
Accommodation Options
Just down the street, we discovered Logis de France called Le Lion D’Or, a comfortable country inn in the village of Romenay—north of Bourg en Bresse, where the chickens are brought to market. With rooms priced under 50 Euros, it offered a great value, and their restaurant also serves Poulet de Bresse. Tip: If you’re looking for good lodging deals, search for Logis de France.
3. Dining Experience at La Maison du Poulet de Bresse
That evening, we walked to La Maison du Poulet de Bresse. To our surprise, we were the only patrons in the restaurant. However, the meal was superb. I had my Bresse chicken in a sauce of cream and morels, while Martha opted for hers in a red wine sauce topped with an egg. Both dishes were exquisite, showcasing the talents of Sandra and Raphael Duclos, who run this establishment with flair.
Indeed, the taste of Bresse chicken differs greatly from the scrawny chickens typically found in plastic wrappings at grocery stores. A Bresse chicken in a French supermarket, for instance, is priced at around 17 Euros—steep, but worth it if you value flavor in your chicken.
The Bresse Chicken’s Heritage
Bresse chickens are regarded with the same reverence as fine wine; they possess an appellation, indicating a specific region of origin, and they belong to a particular breed. Moreover, they are allowed to roam the greenery of the countryside and enjoy real food, all regulated by law.
4. Exploring Romenay and Surrounding Areas
Romenay is located in Southern Burgundy within the Saône et Loire region of France, northeast of Macon. With Paris around 392 kilometers to the north and Lyon just 74 kilometers to the south, this region presents a lightly-touristed getaway. Visitors can enjoy 20 chateaux open to the public, sixty museums, and numerous historic and prehistoric sites. Additionally, the charming towns along the Saône and Seille rivers are picturesque, making barge travel popular in the area.
Cuisery: The Village of Books
To the northeast of Romenay lies the village of Cuisery, known as the “Village of Books” due to its many book shops specializing in everything from first editions to collectibles. Interestingly, Cuisery only earned its title of village du livre in 1999. Presently, it boasts 10 booksellers and 4 artisan book craftsmen, including those who operate old printing presses, engravers, calligraphers, genealogists, and local history exhibitions.
The village also features a gourmet restaurant and hotel on the main drag called Hostellerie Bressane, which serves fine local cuisine. Reasonably priced, it offers well-appointed rooms and is a great option for visitors. Don’t miss the interesting 16th-century church, Notre Dame de Cuisery, during your visit.
