We were pulling into a lock north of Peterborough after a few days of navigating the Trent-Severn waterway in southern Ontario. We’d passed through the same lock maybe 72 hours earlier on our way north in our 42-foot Le Boat craft, and one of the Parks Canada lock workers recognized us on our return journey.

“Hey, guys! It’s Jim and Barbara, right? How’d it go?”

There are many unforgettable moments from our five-day, 20-lock trip on the Trent-Severn: my wife admitting her fears about me piloting a massive boat with almost no boating experience; majestic blue herons gliding over still morning lakes; evening glasses of wine and night-time barbeques on the open-air top deck. However, it was the people we met along the way that truly made this journey memorable.

First Timer

I was too busy navigating to keep proper notes on our trip, especially since there were only two of us on board and I did all the “driving.” Nevertheless, a young woman at Lock 19/Scotts Mills, the first one I had to maneuver our big boat into, gave me a wide smile and a thumbs-up as I slid the boat inside. Observers lining the locks, watching how things worked and nervously observing boat operators, offered more encouraging words.

I came in a little too fast at the next lock.

“A little hot, sir. Back it off. That’s it,” one of the workers called out.

At another lock, a Parks Canada worker explained that a movable roadway/bridge was ahead that she would have to open before we could head north. The road was only a short distance away, so she hopped on her bike and rode ahead, sounding a horn to let us know we could proceed. Charming.

Navigating Locks

We reached the Peterborough Lift Lock, Lock 21 on the Trent-Severn, about five minutes before it closed for the night.

“Sorry we’re so close to the deadline,” I said to Nick, one of the workers.

“No problem,” he replied. “Wait for me at the top, and I’ll help you tie up.”

Entering Lock 21 is somewhat similar to the others, but the Peterborough Lift Lock is noteworthy as the tallest hydraulic lift lock on the planet (65 feet). Other locks on the route usually take 15-20 minutes to navigate, but this one lifts you up or lowers you down in just 60 seconds.

The top of the lock loomed like a quarter-mile above our heads, not 65 feet, yet we practically raced to the top, making it a thrilling boating moment that filled me with joy.

Once we had a docking place at the top, I took photos of the lock at dusk and chatted with a lovely couple from Ottawa who stopped—one of many admirers we encountered—to check out our boat and hear our story. There was only one other boat tied up at the top of the lock, which sits high on a hill and provides stunning views of the surrounding countryside.

What do You Do For Dinner?

Le Boat rentals come equipped with a gas barbeque, so we opened a bottle of wine and grilled some delicious chicken kebabs that the Le Boat team provided (along with a selection of other local delicacies, such as cheeses, fresh bread, and tortilla chips) and dined on the top deck.

It was a perfectly quiet, tranquil night in late May, and we didn’t hear a sound. We awoke to a sunny morning, with a kayaker practicing on the water, his paddle rhythmically dipping into the shiny surface as birds chirped in the nearby trees. The shops and homes of Peterborough were only a few blocks away, but on our boat, it felt like we were in another world.

Rookie at the Wheel

There were no other crafts in the first few locks I pulled into as we sailed north on the waterway, and I believed I had the hang of it. However, on day two, at Lock 22 at Nassau Mills, with just my wife and me on board, my note-taking was horrendous, and there were already two big boats tied up on the right side when I approached. I swear the opening was no more than two or three feet wider than our boat. The lock worker waved me in, and I suddenly felt like a nervous bridegroom.

The folks on the other boats obviously wanted to avoid a collision and eagerly assisted with some timely pushes. I entered the lock at a snail’s pace and utilized the thrusters to nudge our boat sideways so Barbara could tie our bow line.

My heart raced, but I received another thumbs-up from the lock workers.

“First time I’ve had to pull in with other boats,” I said, “and that was not a lot of fun.”

“Pretty nice job for a rookie,” the gentleman in the fancy boat next to ours complimented.

By the time we reached Lakefield, I was feeling quite confident once again, but that didn’t last long.

Docking Can Be a Challenge

Rather than docking just past Lock 26 in Lakefield, which is quite protected, the folks from Le Boat had set us up to go past the lock and try the Lakefield Marina to explore marina life and also try a nice local restaurant called The Loon. While it was a solid plan, the strong current at the Lakefield Marina combined with the windy conditions proved challenging.

I couldn’t make it into the spot the marina worker had indicated as we approached. Our boat was 42 feet, and the suggested opening looked like 42 feet and six inches to me. Unsure of how to proceed, a group of friendly boaters gathered on one of the Lakefield docks pointed out an open space behind a large, expensive-looking boat. I moved slowly forward and back, assessing the current, using the thrusters to maneuver the boat closer to the dock. Finally, I reached within a few feet, and Barb tossed a rope to someone on the dock.

It took four adults and a helpful girl of about eight years to pull us in, but they managed. One of the gentlemen who assisted me extensively, Perry, congratulated me with a pat on the back and provided a power cord extension for the night to charge our batteries.

“Don’t feel bad,” he said. “With the current this strong, it can be very tough. See that slip over there? Nobody ever tries to dock there. Nobody.”

It’s All About Confidence

With a cold local beer in hand and the sun dipping towards the horizon, we relaxed on the top deck. It was around this time that Barbara confessed she had been “dreading” the trip.

“Dreading?” I replied, surprised. “I know you were worried. I understand. But ‘dreading’ is a strong word.”

“I honestly wasn’t sure you could do it,” she acknowledged. “But I was wrong. You’re pretty good at this.”

The next two days were fantastic. We navigated past Young’s Point, admiring a charming marina with an attractive restaurant/patio. We cruised along vast Clear Lake and then advanced through narrow passages in Stoney Lake, which is dotted with small, beautiful islands in shades of beige, pink, and orange. We paused to appreciate a picturesque church on one of the larger islands known as St. Peter’s Church-on-the-Rock, which, interestingly enough, is located near a narrow passage called Hells Gate. (It’s not particularly tricky, truth be told, but it boasts a captivating name.)

Friendly Locals

We encountered some difficulty locating the lock at Burleigh Falls, but a friendly local guided us most of the way and pointed out where to find the entrance.

“It’s a bit hidden,” he explained. “But it’s right over there, near that fancy cottage.”

We sailed through the lock and entered Lovesick Lake, a picturesque body of water believed to be named for a heartbroken settler or possibly an Indigenous woman unfortunate in love.

With ample time on our side, we made our way back to Young’s Point that night and docked on the far side of Lock 27, where we conversed with friendly locals out fishing and once again dined on the top deck.

The following day, we arrived at Lakefield Lock just before it opened for the day. A couple from an hour away, Ken and Jo, dropped by on their boat and shared friendly conversation about the area and our trip.

They were a delightful pair, and my wife and I were continually drawn to people who had been strangers only minutes prior. However, we shared a boating connection, and I was quickly learning that those bonds are some of the strongest.

That evening, we returned to the Peterborough Lift Lock for Barb’s birthday, where we enjoyed a special toast under the serene, late spring sky.

Feeling Like A Pro

The next day, we made our way through Peterborough. A line of boats was coming upstream, necessitating us to nudge our boat to the side of the canal to let them pass. Nevertheless, it was a glorious sunny day on a beautiful boat, and I wouldn’t have cared if it took an hour.

Before long, we passed through Little Lake, home to the new Canadian Canoe Museum. After navigating Lock 19, it was a straight course down the Otonabee River to Del Mastro Horseshoe Bay Resort Marina, where we originally picked up the boat five days earlier. With the current propelling us along, our final stop came into sight far too soon for my liking.

Forty-five minutes later, we were back on the road heading toward the city on Highway 401, with cars zooming past me and weaving in and out of traffic.

“Damn,” I said to Barb as the cars crowded around us. “I miss that boat already.”

Just The Facts

This is the first year Le Boat has had ships available for rent on the Trent-Severn Waterway. The company has been renting holiday boats since 1969 and has 18 destinations worldwide, including the Canal du Midi and Burgundy in France, Loch Ness and the Caledonian Canal in Scotland, northern Italy, Holland, Ireland, and beyond. They have been operating on the Rideau Canal in Ontario for several years.

No boating license is necessary to rent a craft from Le Boat, relieving one common concern. However, having some boating experience is undoubtedly beneficial. I had operated my friend’s 20-footer multiple times, but I had never attempted docking it.

A few weeks before our excursion, Le Boat sent us links to several videos explaining general boating rules and specifics about their boats. They also provided a roughly one-hour introduction before your rental begins, covering buoy rules, navigation tips, and the functions of the boat. Subsequently, they take you out with an experienced boater to assess your skills.

Alan, our boating instructor, took us out on the Otonabee River south of Peterborough, demonstrating how to turn and slow down (in case you’re a novice, there’s no brake on a boat—simply kick it into reverse, which takes some getting used to for a 50-year automobile driver). He handed the boat over to me to observe how I handled it and asked me to take some turns.

“Doing good,” he said. “I don’t think you’ll encounter any issues out there.”

Just in case, we had an emergency number we could call at any time and benefited from the incredible support of lock workers and fellow boaters.

The Boat

The boats aren’t fast (top speed is 10 km/h), and they are equipped with bumpers galore. They also provide detailed charts for navigation, as well as valuable information for potential stops along the way.

We visited in early June when it was not as crowded as it would be during peak summer season. If you’re a first-timer, going early in the year or perhaps in September might alleviate some nerves.

One key feature in my opinion is the thrusters, which allow for easy lateral movement of the boat. If you can approach a lock slowly at around a mile or so an hour, it’s not difficult, and the thrusters will assist you in maneuvering the rest.

If you’re still uncertain, Le Boat is launching a new “Skipper for Hire” program on the Canal du Midi next year. This initiative will have an experienced navigator join you on the first day, assisting newcomers and demonstrating essential techniques. If successful, this program will be extended to other Le Boat routes.

The Le Boat fleet features a variety of vessels. Ours was a 3-bedroom Horizon 3 Plus model. The main bedroom was spacious, equipped with a small en-suite bath that included a toilet, a sink, and a shower. The other two bedrooms, though smaller, had two beds, some storage space, and en-suite baths with a toilet, sink, and shower.

Costs

I looked for a rental in September and found one for a week on the Trent-Severn Waterway in mid-September for four people for $3,272, which equates to less than $500 a night. Mooring fees often apply, and you are responsible for your own fuel needs, any additional electricity required, and the cost of disposing of your boat’s toilets and used water from dishes or showers.