A delightful escape to Bhimtal, exploring the tranquility and natural beauty of The Fisherman’s Lodge.
Contents:
- A Smooth Journey
Different travel options to reach Bhimtal, including private vehicle and train. - A Welcome Drink and a Comfortable Stay
Arrival at The Fisherman’s Lodge and overview of amenities. - An Action-Packed Day
Describes a trek to Tarkota temple and the challenges faced. - Hot Hot Chai
Interaction with locals and a chance to experience local hospitality. - A Memorable Sunset
Cycling downhill during sunset and enjoyment of local delicacies. - The Traffic Gods
Return journey and reflections on the experience.
The Fisherman’s Lodge at Bhimtal
By Mridula Dwivedi
Emails often bring unexpected surprises, and a recent one from The Fisherman’s Lodge at Bhimtal invited me to spend time as their guest. Intrigued, I promptly accepted the offer and noted a long weekend in mid-February on my office calendar.
Bhimtal, situated near the well-known lake town of Nainital (with Tal meaning lake in Hindi), offers a quieter alternative. Unlike Nainital, which is often filled with throngs and commercial development, Bhimtal’s serene atmosphere allows it to retain its natural charm, featuring a beautiful lake, abundant birdlife, and peaceful streets perfect for leisurely strolls.
A Smooth Journey
Accessing Bhimtal involves a six to seven-hour drive by private vehicle, though the exact travel time varies significantly based on road conditions. For those wishing to avoid unpredictable traffic, an alternative is to take a train to Haldwani or Kathgodam and subsequently hire a taxi for a 40-minute journey to Bhimtal. However, the train schedule can also be affected by inclement weather, particularly fog in winter.
My journey commenced in a Skoda Laura, with a driver accompanying us. As we traveled from Delhi, my hostess joined us. We spent time chatting, making the ride enjoyable, and soon reached our stop at a Dhaba in Gajraula for tea. Afterward, I took an Avomine for motion sickness, which left me drowsy and somewhat oblivious to the passing scenery.
A Welcome Drink and a Comfortable Stay
Upon arrival at Fisherman’s Lodge after a seven-hour journey, we were greeted with refreshing Nimbu Pani (lemonade). The Lodge offers twelve rooms, and I was fortunate my accommodation faced the lake.
All rooms reportedly have lake views, enhancing the tranquil experience. Lunch featured continental cuisine, and afterward, I took a restorative nap in my cozy room, waking later to light rain.
In the lobby, I enjoyed tea and carrot cake next to a radiator for warmth, and later in the evening, we gathered around the living room fireplace for comforting company and a glass of wine. I paced myself on the first day, keeping it low-key due to the rain, but I was determined to make the next day adventurous.
An Action-Packed Day
The following morning, I had scheduled a trek to the Tarkota temple, located 4 km from the Lodge and uphill. My guide, Sanjay, set a brisk pace, which I hoped would moderate as I expressed my preference for a slower tempo.
I have trekked extensively in India, including high-altitude treks in Spiti, and expected this one to be manageable. However, my fitness had diminished recently, leaving me breathless after just 15 minutes of walking.
Despite my struggles, I maintained a steady pace, observing the breathtaking natural surroundings. Sanjay pointed out a house visible in the distance, informally noted as a filming location for the Bollywood movie Koi Mil Gaya.
After about an hour and a half of trekking, we reached the summit and were rewarded with stunning views of Bhimtal and Naukuchia Tal. We took a half-hour break to enjoy the sunshine and snacks. Though not particularly religious, the serene setting of the small temples inspired a moment of gratitude.
It was soon time to return, and we chose a more gradual path down, aided by a local elder who joined us along the way. Our conversation revealed shared connections with lodge staff.
Hot Hot Chai
As we passed his village, the elder kindly invited us for a cup of the best Pahari chai. This offered me a glimpse into his life, meeting his family and learning about local women’s work outside the home.
We reciprocated the hospitality by gifting our unopened soft drink to a child in the family and savored a delightful Pahari lunch upon returning to the Lodge by 2:15 pm.
A Memorable Sunset
Later that evening, I joined two other guests for a downhill cycling expedition. The stunning valley views against a breathtaking sunset made for an unforgettable ride often interrupted by stops for tea and photographs.
Upon returning to the Lodge, we indulged in tea, carrot cake, wine, and a delicious dinner with a memorable soup. The next morning, I was preparing to head back to Gurgaon after breakfast.
The Traffic Gods
Breakfast included lovely baked eggs and excellent cheese, and soon we set off back home. During this short three-hour drive, we paused at Gajraula for tea at a food court.
However, it seemed the Traffic Gods had other plans for us. We encountered significant delays, particularly as we navigated through jams exacerbated by the presence of cyclists. Eventually, we arrived home later than expected.
Reflecting on my journey, I appreciate the lessons in patience that travel in India instills, as shared with me by a young American tourist I met during a previous trek at Triund.
Despite returning home past my daughter’s bedtime, I was delighted to find her still awake for a brief moment. I am eagerly anticipating the day she is old enough to accompany us on our adventures.
