Summary
- Bologna: A Culinary Haven
- Cornetto with Pistachio Cream at Gamberini
- Raspberry Brioches at Gino Fabbri Pasticcere
- The Perfect Espresso at Aroma
- Fresh Pasta at Sfoglia Rina
- Veal Cutlets at All’Osteria Bottega
- Ruote alla Vodka at Casa Merlò
- Sangiovese-Braised Beef at Trattoria Bertozzi
- Lasagne at Al Cambio
- Tortellini at Oltre
- Negronis at Agricola e Vitale
- Wine, Snacks and Vibes at Le Serre dei Giardini Margherita
- Craft Beer at Il Punto
- Late-Night Cocktails at Ruggine
It is impossible to discuss Bologna without food taking center stage—the city and the broader Emilia-Romagna region are often considered among the top culinary destinations in Italy. Emilian delicacies influence gastronomy across the globe (ragù, tortellini, lasagna, balsamic vinegar, parmigiano reggiano, mortadella—this list is extensive). As someone who has lived in various locations including California, New York, Brazil, and Portugal, I can assert that no place approaches the cultural significance of food that Bologna exhibits. The culinary experience here is exceptional and has been my passion since 2019.
However, a word of caution: do not arrive expecting spaghetti and meatballs (which is nonexistent here) or spaghetti Bolognese (which is also absent) or even spaghetti in general (as it originates from southern Italy). In Bologna, the focus is on freshly made, egg-based pastas (tagliatelle, tortelloni, etc.) and frequently incorporates pork-based sauces and fillings. Buon appetito!
Cornetto with Pistachio Cream at Gamberini
As someone inclined towards savory breakfasts (and being American I often favor a breakfast burrito, bagel sandwich, or crab cake eggs Benedict), breakfast is my least favorable meal in Italy. It must be acknowledged that this is one meal where Italy does not excel perfectly (no one can conquer every culinary aspect). Italian breakfasts typically aim for speed and simplicity. This is not to imply that what they offer is not delightful; the pastry selection at Gamberini in the city center presents a delicious challenge. Choose a cornetto (Italian croissant) filled with pistachio cream (or anything featuring pistachio cream, as it is a personal favorite).
How to obtain it: Just walk in at your convenience. Gamberini operates from 7am until 9pm daily (closed on Fridays).
Raspberry Brioches at Gino Fabbri Pasticcere
An additional highly regarded pasticceria necessitates private transportation; however, Gino Fabbri Pasticcere, located 6km northeast of the city center, warrants the detour due to its international acclaim. Every offering is delightful, yet the raspberry lampone and zucchero (sugar-iced) brioches stand out as must-try items. For those craving a savory fix, options at Papparè in the city center (bacon, avocado, feta, etc.) can help carry you through until you return to the state side.
How to obtain it: A personal vehicle is necessary for this visit, which is open six days a week (closed on Sundays) and requires about a 20-minute drive. Alternatively, the 88 bus can be taken from Stazione Centrale.
The Perfect Espresso at Aroma
One of the finest attributes of Italy is that—with few exceptions—an excellent espresso or cappuccino is available virtually everywhere, including unconventional spots such as petrol stations and budget hotels. While third-wave coffee shops exist in Italy, they remain less common, as the demand is lower than in other regions of the world. Nonetheless, there are specialty cafes where an emphasis on expertise, roasting, barista training, and proficiency significantly exceeds the usual experience. When seeking the ideal espresso, my destination is Aroma—you will pay more here (€1.50-€4) but it is undoubtedly worth the investment. This establishment features some of the few specialty roasts from international coffee-producing regions (Ethiopia, El Salvador, Uganda) and alternative brewing methods such as V-60. Another worthy mention is Caffè TerzI, which has a vintage ambiance and offers excellent pastries alongside a diverse menu of single-origin 100% Arabica coffees sourced worldwide. However, do not worry if these locations appear distant, as quality coffee is well within your reach—trust me.
How to gain access: Open seven days a week from 8am (9:30am on weekends) to 6pm.
Fresh Pasta at Sfoglia Rina
If this is your inaugural visit to Bologna, make your way directly to Sfoglia Rina and prepare for a wait (arrive early—reservations are not taken). The fresh pasta served at this suburban eatery (established in 1963 in nearby Casalecchio di Reno) is extraordinary. It serves as an excellent introduction to Bologna’s culinary reputation (tagliatelle, tortellini, tortelloni) and showcases innovatively changing weekly specials. The tagliatelle al ragù (pasta with meat and tomato sauce) and gramigna alla salsiccia (pasta with sausage) are among the highlights.
How to access it: Sfoglia Rina is open seven days a week from 9am to 9pm. As they do not accept reservations, plan to wait in line.
Veal Cutlets at All’Osteria Bottega
Another excellent choice for lunch—provided you can secure a reservation—is All’Osteria Bottega, situated conveniently beneath the UNESCO World Heritage listed Santa Catarina portico. Their Petroniana-style veal cutlet (known locally as cotaletta and garnished with prosciutto di Parma and parmigiano Reggiano) was my initial experience with this dish and has yet to be surpassed. This represents a quintessential Bolognese encounter—the cuisine is so remarkable that there is no need for formalities; simply being seated is a privilege.
How to obtain it: It is closed on Sundays and Mondays but open throughout the week from 12:30pm to 10:30pm. You must call to reserve a table, as online reservations are unavailable.
Ruote alla Vodka at Casa Merlò
For an unconventional lunch option, my favorite is the ruote alla vodka at Casa Merlò/Locanda Casa Merlò, which features a recipe from chef Dario Picchiotti, showcasing Benedetto Cavalieri pasta wheels enveloped in a vintage vodka sauce enriched with smoked Tuscan rigatino (pancetta). This newly established locanda (countryside inn), located outside of the city in Calderara di Reno, provides an idyllic rural lunch experience.
How to access it: Casa Merlò is centrally located and is open seven days a week from 12:30 to 3pm for lunch and again from 7:30pm until 12:30am for dinner. Reservations can be made in advance via their website.
Sangiovese-Braised Beef at Trattoria Bertozzi
The most challenging aspect of residing in Bologna is determining where to enjoy dinner. Impromptu choices are impractical—most top establishments require reservations several days beforehand (often more for certain places)—and there is an abundance of exceptional options. Trattoria Bertozzi consistently ranks among my top three restaurants. They excel in delivering traditional cuisine with remarkable finesse. Their signature gramigna, featuring guanciale, zucchini, saffron, and parmigiano reggiano, alongside the Sangiovese-braised beef, are my go-to selections.
How to access it: Open six days a week (closed Sundays) from 7:30pm to 10pm. Lunch service begins earlier on Fridays and Saturdays, from 12:30pm until 2:30pm. Reservations can be made through their contact options.
Lasagne at Al Cambio
The lasagne served at Al Cambio is, without exaggeration, among the most remarkable dishes you will ever experience. That is all that needs to be said.
How to obtain it: It is advisable to contact them in advance for a reservation. They remain open six days a week (closed Sundays) from 12 to 2:30pm for lunch and from 7:30pm to 10:30pm for dinner.
Tortellini at Oltre
For a more romantic and slightly trendy experience, chef Daniele Bendanti at Oltre is unafraid to innovate on tradition. The only tortellini in parmigiano reggiano cream that has surpassed his creation was prepared by the renowned, three-star Michelin chef Massimo Bottura!
How to access it: Oltre operates from Thursday to Monday (closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays) from 7:30pm to 11pm and from 12:30pm to 2:30pm for lunch from Saturday to Monday. Reservations are recommended.
Negronis at Agricola e Vitale
Bolognese cuisine tends to be rich, so during aperitivo, I often prefer a cocktail rather than relying on complimentary snacks paired with a drink (dining experiences in Milan differ significantly). While it can be touristy and expensive, I enjoy a negroni at Agricola e Vitale, not because it outclasses other versions available in the city (Italians consistently excel at crafting negronis!) but for the ambiance: its outdoor seating occupies my favorite square in the city, Piazza Santo Stefano, offering a splendid view and great people-watching opportunities.
How to access it: It is open daily from 11am to 1am, extending to 2am on Fridays and Saturdays.
Wine, Snacks and Vibes at Le Serre dei Giardini Margherita
Less commercial yet equally inviting is Le Serre dei Giardini Margherita, where the city’s historic greenhouses have been transformed into an enchanting atmosphere combining bar, restaurant, and co-working space for students, artists, and creatives. This locale is ideal for indulging in a leisurely bottle of wine accompanied by small plates, such as breaded meatballs and focaccia filled with seasonal vegetables.
How to access it: It is a 20-minute stroll from Bologna’s city center (or take the 16 bus) and operates on weekdays from 8am to 8pm and on weekends from 9am to 9:30pm.
Craft Beer at Il Punto
As an enthusiast of craft beer, I find that Italy (particularly Bologna) boasts an outstanding scene in contrast to traditional European wine regions. My go-to establishment is Il Punto, situated at the fringe of the city center, which serves as an excellent filtering point for locals or beer enthusiasts (known in Italian as nerds della birra) who have conducted their research and made the effort to visit. Expect a selection of eight local craft beer taps.
How to access it: Open seven days a week until late in the evening.
Late-Night Cocktails at Ruggine
For late-night cocktails, I prefer Ruggine , located near the Quadrilatero. Their innovative mixology paired with a lively and social crowd (uncommon in most Italian bars) creates an ideal atmosphere for an extended evening of cocktail exploration.
How to access it: Ruggine operates daily from 12pm to 1am (except Monday, when it opens at 6pm) and serves food each day, including Sunday brunch. Reservations are not necessary, as walk-ins are welcome.