The Vicentine Coast: A Hiking Paradise

Known to some as the end of the world, the Vicentine Coast is one of Portugal’s best hiking destinations, offering breathtaking views and unique natural landscapes. Covered in flat, loose pieces of shale rock, the trail beneath T.J.’s feet shifted with every step. My gaze skeptically followed the steep crevice of rock downward, where it sloped toward a rocky cove. It wasn’t until T.J., our tour guide, pulled the rope out of his backpack that I realized he was serious about our descent. Pointing to a metal stake in the ground, installed by Portuguese fishermen for this exact purpose, he warned us not to trip.

A few hours prior, I had sat in a sunny square in Lagos, perusing brochures that advertised jet boat excursions to see the famous cliffs of southwestern Portugal from a distance. Instead, I found myself standing amid one of those deceptively large and shadowy nooks of the coastline, warding off the chill of the Atlantic-born gales, stopping to taste wild garlic and thyme, and climbing down to somebody’s not-so-secret fishing spot.

While planning my trip to the Algarve, I sought an adventure that could get my blood pumping. I discovered The West Coast Adventure Co., a tour company led by T.J. Eisenstein, an American who has been exploring the fishermen’s tracks of the Vicentine Coast for over nine years. Upon discovering this lesser-visited corner of the Algarve, T.J. found any way he could to access the protected natural park and began bringing small groups on adventurous hikes. Around the same time, the Rota Vicentina Association was formed to connect and signpost the tracks that generations of fishermen have etched into the clifftops. Their mission focuses on maintaining these historic trails with a sustainable tourism model that protects the cultural and environmental integrity of this awe-inspiring landscape.

Tracks, Not Trails

I gripped the rope tightly in one hand and used the other to balance against the slope as my feet slid with every step on the loose shale. My legs were burning after an intense workout the day before, and while I wanted to move quickly, each step had to be made carefully, much to the protest of my sore quadriceps. Just when I thought I’d be there forever, I suddenly stood upright, looking out at our picnic spot down by the water.

T.J. explained that the rocky places like this inspire fishermen to create these tracks. “They’re not planned by people sitting around, thinking of how to make a trail,” he remarked. “They just evolved because of fishermen trying to get from the tops of the cliffs down to the water.”

For many years, the brave fishermen of the Vicentine Coast were the only ones willing to brave high winds and tall cliffs for the best catch. Successfully maneuvering to a spot others dared not go often resulted in a bounty of fish and seafood. In this stunning corner of Portugal, species like bass, bream, octopi, and delectable goose-neck barnacles thrive in the highly oxygenated intertidal zone where whitewater waves crash against the rocks.

A Model for Sustainability

T.J. expertly guided our group safely back up to the trail, but without an experienced guide, an unwitting hiker could easily follow an old track into a difficult and dangerous access point. Not all the tracks on the Vicentine Coast are part of the official Rota Vicentina Fishermen’s Trail, which has been designed to connect the safest and most interesting sections of the fishermen’s routes into one signposted trail accessible for exploration.

In 2012, Rota Vicentina embarked on a mission to maintain these scenic trails and study tourism’s impact on the landscape. However, according to CEO Marta Cabral, they had no idea how quickly things would evolve in the following decade. “There were no plans for big hotels here, but suddenly these bed-and-breakfast concepts brought so many people,” Cabral stated, highlighting the recent explosion in campervan tourism. “The way of doing tourism changed, which had a significant impact.”

Among the Beaches, Portugal’s Wine Region Shines

The Rota Vicentina has signposted over 700 kilometers of picturesque trails throughout the Vicentine Coast and the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park. This includes the Historical Way, which expands through inland towns and villages, and the official Fishermen’s Trail, providing connections to the best coastal tracks used by local fishermen. Besides trail upkeep, the association collaborates with the community to connect visitors with local artisans, farmers, and fishermen. Some experiences are part of the Touro Azul, a carefully curated collection of community-centered cultural experiences, such as visiting rural fishing lagoons.

Though undeniably beautiful, conditions along the Vicentine Coast can be harsh. Historically, apart from a fisherman who may have spent a night or two under the stars, this area remained uninhabited. For Cabral, it is crucial to encourage hikers to seek authentic cultural experiences. “We focus our work with local partners in areas of nature, culture, and well-being,” she emphasized, noting that the Fishermen’s Trail promotes itself organically with its remote nature and stunning vistas. “It’s unparalleled.”

Clear Skies

I had initially believed that the views were unbeatable, however, throughout my adventure, a hanging cloud lingered. This enhanced the surreal quality of the experience, but I longed for clearer views. Borrowing from my guide’s hitchhiking origin story, the next day, I hopped on a bus to Cabo de São Vicente, where I connected to the Fishermen’s Trail at the iconic lighthouse.

The cloud dissipated, revealing views all the way to Sagres—my goal for the day, located six miles away. Walking along the edge produced a dizzying experience, especially as I made an effort to keep a safe distance from the straight, 90-degree drop. The coast resembled a long table stretching into the abyss of the placid ocean, truly lending credence to the idea of it being the end of the world.

I adhered to the signposted trail that snaked along the coastline, passing by crumbling fortresses and expansive beaches filled with cars and campervans. During the lonelier stretches in between, I cautiously peered over the cliffs, pondering all the secrets safeguarded within these ancient folds of rock and sea.