Capital of the southern French region of Occitania, the alluring city of Toulouse showcases a broader gastronomic flair than most cities across the country.
Since the Visigoths established it as their capital in the 15th century, various external influences have molded Occitan culture, which is primarily expressed through its culinary offerings today. Furthermore, a thriving aerospace industry (Toulouse is the headquarters of Airbus) and an influx of technology enterprises have imparted a cosmopolitan edge to the city, resulting in a diverse representation of global cuisines and contemporary food trends.
As throughout France, locally sourced ingredients of exceptional quality underpin Toulousain cuisine. The offerings, such as blue-veined cheese from Roquefort, black truffles from the Occitan woodlands, and garlic as pink as the structures of la Ville Rose (or “the Pink City,” Toulouse’s moniker), combine to engage the senses with each dish.
Summarizing the extensive culinary wealth of the city into a concise narrative is nearly unattainable. However, here are some favorite establishments where my companions and I frequently enjoy dining and drinking in Toulouse.
Breakfast
Located conveniently close to the Pont Neuf and the Fondation Bemberg art museum, Peacock serves as an excellent venue for a wholesome breakfast prior to commencing your day. Their homemade pecan cookies provide a delightful light snack, while those seeking a nutrient-rich option will appreciate the visually appealing granola and fresh fruit bowls. The Saturday brunches here create a vibrant atmosphere amidst Peacock’s vaulted ceilings.
For a traditional market breakfast featuring selections from fine cured meats and cheeses, visit Marché Victor Hugo or the stalls at Place du Capitole early on a Sunday morning. This period allows me to immerse myself in the crowd, observing and discovering the best offerings from numerous local gourmets. On any other day of the week, you can stop by Salon Cacao’T for their sublime kouign amann (a Brittany-style pastry known for its caramelized butter and sugar).
Coffee
Upon discovering a café that serves coffee to my preference, my adventurous spirit tends to wane. As a result, I frequently find myself at Café Papiche during visits to Toulouse. Nevertheless, there are numerous other excellent coffee shops in and around the Carmes neighborhood, such as Le Café Cerise, known for its accommodating staff and cozy mezzanine seating. The fountainside location of The Flower’s Café at Place Roger Salengro allows for enjoyable people-watching over a serene coffee break, complemented by their exceptional pear crumble.
Toulouse’s tea houses present a pleasant alternative to cafés, often featuring charming atmospheres. The quaint wooden tables and flowery porcelain at Bapz create a delightful setting for conversations with friends. Across the Garonne River, L’estaminot in Saint Cyprien (just two Metro stops west from Capitole) functions as a hip tea room within a library—minus the usual noise restrictions.
Lunch
Chefs at the five restaurants on the upper level of Marché Victor Hugo capitalize on the fresh produce available within the central food market to create beloved lunch dishes. While you may need to contend for a balcony table (or, if your command of French allows, make a prior reservation), these locales undoubtedly stand out as the premier lunch destinations in the city. Personally, I favor Au Bon Graillou for its seasonal three-course menu typically priced around €24.
At L’Oncle Pom, diners can choose their potato preparation first (options include gratin or French fries) before selecting a complementary meat or fish dish. The eclectic decor adds a quirky charm to the dining experience.
For those seeking a quick bite, head to Rue Pargaminières, where Vietnamese-fusion dishes like bò bún (typically prepared with noodles, veggies, and French-style beef) offer a delicious and affordable meal; I recommend either Chez Tran or Chez Nicô. Later in the evening, this street transforms into a vibrant late-night dining hub for students, owing to its reasonable prices and extended opening hours.
Aperitivo
Despite its pink designation, Toulouse is also referred to as the City of Violets. These fragrant and delicate flowers, grown in the region, have found their way into the city’s culinary repertoire, primarily as liqueur de violette, frequently incorporated into cocktails by creative mixologists at establishments like Le Loup Blanc. Anyone developing a fondness for this purple liqueur can purchase bottles from La Maison de la Violette, a uniquely situated shop on a barge along the Canal du Midi.
The classic southern French aperitif—anise liqueur known as pastis, traditionally served over ice—is prevalent throughout Toulouse. At Chez Tonton, the legendary happy hour (timings vary depending on the day) features a buy-one-get-one-free offer on glasses of Ricard for €2.50, along with a desirable location directly on the bustling Place Saint-Pierre.
Dinner
In Toulouse, I routinely seek out robust regional specialties such as cassoulet, particularly during the colder months. This classic Toulousain dish typically combines local sausage with duck confit, slowly cooked in its own fat, and simmered alongside white beans, lamb, and pork belly. Given its popularity, various establishments across different price ranges serve cassoulet. For a Michelin-level experience, consider visiting Restaurant Emile (advance reservations are recommended for terrace seating). An excellent spot for pairing the dish with people-watching is the belle-époque bistro Le Bibent, situated in the central Place du Capitole.
The culinary offerings in the city are notably inclusive of diverse dietary preferences, including vegan and vegetarian options. Those looking for an all-you-can-eat experience can indulge at La Faim des Haricots, which often features homemade savory tarts as part of its rotating menu.
Bar
As a part-time musician, I am drawn to venues with a rich musical ambiance. Classic rock tunes combined with a selection of 20 beers on tap make La Tireuse an exemplary establishment. This bar is conveniently located on Rue Pargaminières, just a minute east from Place Saint-Pierre, which is surrounded by pubs and bars that offer terrace seating and a vibrant atmosphere from aperitivo time until closing. Le Bar Basque is a beloved spot that has remained popular over the years, as has Chez Tonton (previously mentioned).
For a distinctly different experience, Fat Cat presents a laid-back environment with exceptional cocktails, particularly during live jazz nights. When seeking the quintessential French bar vibe, especially in the company of someone from outside France, Au Père Louis embodies authentic traditional charm. Lastly, Le 5 Wine Bar is the ideal venue to savor a bottle of Braucol Rouge, a product of nearby Gaillac, one of the first wine-producing regions in France.
