Summary
Sometimes we have been very lucky in our travels. Many times we end up in a place just in time for a festival or celebration that we had no idea was even going on. This was the case in Bali when visiting Ubud and a massive cremation ceremony was taking place.
We don’t plan our travels around events like this, so we had no idea it was going on when we arrived. It wasn’t until our guesthouse owner told us about it and other shopkeepers mentioned that we should go.
Witnessing a Cremation Ceremony in Bali
We had heard of the famous cremation ceremonies of Bali and we had seen them on TV, but we never thought that we would actually witness one in real life.
We didn’t even know if it was proper etiquette for us to attend a cremation ceremony, but when shop owners and waitresses told us that we must see the cremation, how could we not?
It seemed that everyone was asking us if we were going to see the cremation ceremony, and it felt as if everyone in town was participating.
What is a Cremation Ceremony in Bali
The cremation ceremony is a sacred rite of passage in Bali. It is a funeral celebration for a loved one.
However, a cremation ceremony isn’t like the usual funeral service that we in the West are accustomed to. It is a time for celebration and a moment for the deceased’s body to be burned and set free from its worldly ties.
This ceremony marks the most important rite in a person’s life in Bali. It is a celebrated stage, and no expense is spared to carry it out. This is the final ceremony in the circle of life where it must be done correctly to convey the deceased soul to the eternal world.
Witnessing a Rare Cremation Ceremony
Sometimes it can take years after a person’s death for a cremation to take place. Families with fewer financial resources save money over time to afford the ceremony and often have mass cremations collectively.
The bodies are temporarily buried until the day arrives for the ceremony. We were in Ubud when a prominent priest passed away and could afford to have his own elaborate cremation ceremony.
Types of Cremation Ceremonies in Bali
- Ngaben – for ordinary people.
- Plebon – a cremation ceremony for the royal family.
- Pretiwaan – for a high priest.
I can’t believe that we were in Bali for Pretiwaan, the most significant of cremation ceremonies. All these people were attending one individual’s cremation.
A Festive Cremation Ceremony
We arrived to a mass of people dressed in traditional ceremonial clothing. Bands were playing as individuals carried ornate offerings on their heads, while others walked through the crowd selling sarongs and chess sets.
Soon, the procession appeared at the end of the street, and the ceremony began. It was led by a massive white sacred cow, carried by dozens of sarong-clad men.
The crowd fell into place, and the procession grew, with thousands of individuals filling the street. The Balinese music played, and the sound of tin drums resonated from everywhere. The atmosphere was festive and exhilarating, as people yelled and cheered, creating an intoxicating energy.
The Parade
The parade is a celebration of life. Hundreds of people carry various objects through the streets toward the ceremony’s endpoint. Following behind was the high tower containing the body, which rested on giant bamboo poles carried by dozens of men.
Every so often, the men carrying the tower would stop and turn in circles. From what I understand, this act was meant to confuse the spirit, preventing it from finding its way back home. This ritual is intended for the spirit to leave the earth forever.
Consequently, the long parade route serves not merely for spectacle but also plays a vital role in the ceremony and their beliefs. They hold that if the spirit can find its way back, it will haunt the family. This ceremony helps allow the spirit to move on in peace.
The Priest
A priest stood beside the shrine along with another man, who could have been the deceased’s eldest son or a relative. However, we never discovered what his specific role was.
After the body and the priest passed, we joined the procession, following it all the way to the temple where the actual ceremony would proceed. It was a hot day— the sun beat down fiercely, and the concrete burned through the soles of our flip-flops.
Despite sweating under the intense sun, we could not miss this once-in-a-lifetime experience.
The Preparation for the Ceremony
The band found a spot to sit and continued to play as the body was prepared. Wreaths were displayed in front of the altar, and the body was transferred from the tower to be burned inside the statue of the white cow.
Though I could not see precisely what was happening, they took great care to wrap the body and fill the shrine with offerings.
The Burning of the Cow
After an hour of anticipation, suddenly and silently, the fire was lit. I had my back turned, and it wasn’t until the cow was engulfed in flames that I realized the cremation had begun.
The intense heat caused even the most curious onlookers to step back. The cow took a considerable amount of time to burn, and its head never fully caught fire.
Eventually, the body fell beneath the cow, prompting them to fuel the fire to ensure the bones burned completely. The extreme heat focused on the body signaled the end of the cremation.
It was intriguing; one could see the skeleton burning as morbid tourists, myself included, rushed to the front for a closer view.
The band played on, and people cheered as the cremation ceremony slowly came to a close.
Ultimately, it was yet another surreal experience in our Asian Adventure. However, it was a spectacular sight, showcasing how death can be about celebration as much as grieving. A cremation ceremony in Bali illustrates that life is worth celebrating. We all must die one day; therefore, we should embrace the afterworld and pay tribute to a life well lived.
