The Dual Nature of Nusa Penida: A Journey of Discovery

How a beautiful Indonesian island and a mythical demon taught me a valuable lesson about the duality of good and evil.

After an ill-advised trip to a local fish market during my time in Indonesia, I was struck with “Bali belly.” Consequently, I was forced to postpone my flight, leaving me with five days in Bali without accommodations or a plan. Perfect.

I had been considering visiting Nusa Penida long before my journey. This tropical island paradise is less than an hour away from Bali, well-known for its iconic sandy cliffs and crystal-clear blue waters, which countless Instagram users have featured.

However, when I proposed this idea, my Scottish friend expressed his apprehension about Nusa Penida. Locals had warned him about evil spirits rumored to wander the island, and a girl we knew claimed she felt something pulling her down by the ankle while scuba diving. Earlier in my trip, a taxi driver shared stories of seeing spirits and advised me to ritually wash my ears and neck to avoid the “hunter.” Needless to say, I slept with the lights on that evening.

My friend couldn’t grasp my desire to tempt fate; we were surrounded by many other beautiful locations with far fewer ghostly claims. Nevertheless, my stubbornness prevailed. Armed solely with our backpacks and a pocketful of medication for food poisoning, we set off for Nusa Penida.

After experiencing the hustle and bustle of mainland Bali, stepping off the boat at Nusa Penida felt like exhaling a breath you didn’t know you were holding. The island is lush, untouched, and carries an exhilarating, freeing, and nerve-racking ambiance.

While the coasts feature numerous homestays, restaurants, and bars, the island’s interior is far more tranquil. As we navigated through tall hills and rice terraces, we encountered charming villages and temples. Children eagerly waved to us from scooters as chickens scurried about.

Every experience on Nusa Penida is an adventure, even a simple trip to the beach. We visited popular spots like Crystal Bay, Angel’s Billabong, and Suwehan Beach. Crystal Bay, known for its small restaurants serving loungers, snacks, and refreshing coconuts, draws many visitors. Conversely, most beaches, including the famed Diamond Beach, require a daunting hike.

While its natural beauty attracts travelers, Nusa Penida is often referred to as the Black Magic Island. This label stems from ancient myths and legends warning that the island was home to demons and warlocks. One of the most notorious figures is Jero Gede Macaling, often simply called “Macaling.” According to legend, he was exiled from Bali for spreading disease and misfortune. A local friend refers to him as “the one with the long teeth.”

On Nyepi, the Balinese New Year, it is said that Macaling deceived the people of Bali by disguising himself as a Barong, a revered mythical creature representing good. In this guise, Macaling and his team of demons infiltrated Bali and wreaked havoc. As a result, the Balinese New Year is observed as a day of silence.

According to the legend, after Macaling’s devastation, the people of Bali created a new Barong who defeated his army, driving them back to Nusa Penida. High priests from the surrounding region came to the island to exorcise it of dark magic. This event is reported to have given Nusa Penida its name, translating to “the island of priests.”

Pura Ped temple is believed to be the resting place of Macaling’s spirit. According to local beliefs, he continues to roam Nusa Penida to this day, and the temple is recognized as a site for the practice of dark magic. “When people feel unwell, they go to the temple in Nusa Penida to pray to Macaling,” a local friend informed me.

Those who practice Balinese Hinduism often make a pilgrimage to the temple seeking the balance between negative and positive energies. Macaling’s presence serves to remind us of the duality of good and evil, illustrating that while darkness may exist in the world, light will always follow.

With a rich spiritual history and breathtaking landscapes, Nusa Penida stands out as one of the most stunning and unique destinations in Indonesia. It embodies a paradox of sunshine and darkness, tranquility and adventure. Bali is acknowledged as one of the most spiritually significant places globally, a factor that often contributes to its eerie reputation. Ultimately, the experience is contingent on one’s perspective.