Within the formidable Château d’Angers (Castle of Angers) in Angers, you’ll discover the most powerful tapestry you’ll ever see. It rivals the Bayeux Tapestry for its impact, but the story is very different.
The Tapestry
The 100-meter (328-feet) long tapestry is housed in the castle in a dimly lit gallery, which takes your eyes some minutes to get used to. The low lighting protects the vegetable dyes of the red, blue, and gold woolen threads, which are amazingly vivid. This atmosphere enhances what will be a visit you will remember for the extraordinary richness and terrifying, grotesque scenes of the Apocalypse.
This remarkable artwork is divided into six ‘chapters,’ following the last chapter of the New Testament of St. John regarding the Apocalypse. In a series of prophetic visions, it details the return of Christ, his victory over evil, and the end of the world with its various signs in the sky, horrors, and persecutions. Each of the six chapters features a figure seated on a dais reading the ‘Revelations’ depicted in the ensuing scenes.
Consequently, this extraordinary piece of art is quite chilling in several scenes, particularly those illustrating the monster with seven heads. While it was intended to convey the power of God, it also serves as a political statement. The tapestry was designed and woven during the Hundred Years War between the English and the French, which took place intermittently from 1337 to 1453.
Throughout, there are clear indications of a long history of warfare. For the citizens at that time, the allusions were unmistakable. For example, in the chapter where the dragon acknowledges the supremacy of the monster, he hands over a French fleur-de-lys, the symbol of France, to the old and dreaded enemy. This moment comes from Revelations 12:1-2—
“And I saw a beast rising out of the sea, with 10 horns and seven heads, with 10 diadems upon its horns and a blasphemous name upon its heads. And the beast that I saw was like a leopard, its feet were like a bear’s, and its mouth was like a lion’s mouth. And to it, the dragon gave his power and his throne and great authority.” Reading this is highly recommended as it is stirring material.
Tip: If possible, familiarize yourself with Revelations before your visit so you can appreciate the story or bring along a condensed version for reference. This preparation provides you with a far greater understanding of the bloody warfare depicted in this extraordinary work.
A Bit of History
The tapestry was woven in Paris between 1373 and 1382 for Louis I of Anjou. Originally 133 meters (436 feet) long and six meters (20 feet) high, it was designed by Hennequin de Bruges, the foremost painter of the Bruges School, who lived in France from 1368 as an employee of King Charles V (1364 to 1380). He drew inspiration for the images from one of the King’s illuminated manuscripts, which were then woven into 100 separate tapestries by Nicolas Bataille and Robert Poincon over seven years.
Initially, it was displayed in the cathedral of Angers on major festival days. However, during the French Revolution, the tapestry was cut into pieces for its protection and distributed to different individuals. After the Revolution, a Canon of the cathedral collected the fragments (all apart from 16 that remain unaccounted for and were likely destroyed), and restoration of the tapestry occurred between 1843 and 1870.
Practical Information
Angers Castle, 2 Promenade du Bout du Monde, 49100 Angers, France
Open
- May 2 to September 4: 9.30 a.m. to 6.30 p.m.
- September 5 to April 30: 10 a.m. to 5.30 p.m.
- Last entrance 45 minutes before closing time
Closed
January 1, May 1, November 1, November 11, and December 25
Prices
Adults: 8.50 euros; 18 to 25 years old free for citizens of an EU country; under 18 free
Where to Stay
There are numerous excellent hotels in this vibrant city. For a charming experience, consider the Hotel du Mail located at 8, rue des Ursules.
If you prefer a more grand ambiance, the 19th-century Best Western Hotel d’Anjou at 1 Boulevard Marechal Foch offers a delightful experience.
The 4-Star Mercure Centre (1 place Pierre Mendes France) is conveniently situated above the Convention Centre. Be sure to request a room overlooking the lovely public gardens at the back. Breakfast here is highly praised.
For those planning to travel from London to the Loire Valley, transportation options are readily available.
Additionally, you may want to visit the nearby Terra Botanica, recognized as one of the best theme parks in France.
