It should come as no surprise that Antwerp’s cultural cred punches above its ‘second capital’ status. Back in the 16th century, it was one of the world’s greatest and richest cities where merchants, diplomats, sailors, and artisans mixed and mingled. Today, this multicultural city is as open and fluid as ever. Its mix of beautiful Baroque townhouses, Jugenstil districts, and regenerated industrial areas provide a moody and evocative backdrop to a flourishing creative milieu, contemporary art, fashion, and music scene.
Gallery Going
The canvasses of Luc Tuymans—one of the world’s most respected contemporary artists and a lifelong resident of Antwerp—filter piercingly direct, occasionally shocking ‘found’ photographic images from various sources through a painterly blur rendered in earthy shades. His debt to the Flemish Masters, particularly Ghent’s Jan van Eyck, is evident, as is the influence of his hometown’s distinctive landscape. While his work is included in major collections, he still exhibits at Zeno X, Antwerp’s leading contemporary gallery. This venue is a favorite among contemporary art fans, featuring prominent Belgian artists like Michaël Borremans and international talents like Marlene Dumas. Other established galleries, such as Annie Gentils and De Zwarte Panter, along with newcomers Ingrid Deuss and Gallery Sofie Van de Velde, are also must-sees, showcasing both Belgian and international artists. The newly refurbished Museum of Contemporary Art Antwerp (MHKA) boasts a strong Flemish collection and a beautifully designed shop by Axel Vervoordt. Vervoordt’s latest project, Kanaal, a new complex on the Scheldt-side, incorporates several exhibition venues, shops, offices, apartments, and a restaurant alongside permanent artworks by artists such as Anish Kapoor and Marina Abramović.
Looking Forward, Looking Up
Antwerp’s architectural heritage can be described as textured rather than historically pristine. It features a well-preserved Baroque center, decorative Jugenstil neighborhoods like Zurenborg, and many late 20th-century buildings, a result of WWII bombings. Notably, the Museum aan de Stroom (MAS) is a striking sixty-meter high tower in the Eilandje waterfront warehouse district that set the standard for contemporary architecture in 2011. Inside, visitors will find a collection of objects that narrate Antwerp’s rich mercantile and maritime history, reflecting the city’s evolving politics. For a unique experience, the top floor features the acclaimed restaurant ‘t Zilte, known for its local cuisine and breathtaking views of the city.
Black on Black
Long recognized as a textiles hub, Antwerp emerged as a fashion capital with the rise of the avant-garde Antwerp Six in the 1980s, all alumni of the Royal Academy fashion course. While the MoMU, Antwerp’s fashion museum, is currently undergoing renovations, it often showcases their work. During this downtime, visiting flagship stores of designers like Dries van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester is a great alternative, offering current pieces with high future museum potential.
As the Antwerp Six revolutionized the styling of curators and designers in the 80s, the music scene similarly transformed the nightlife. With no strict closing hours, Belgium contributed notably to the rise of rave culture, electronic body music, and Belgian new beat. The club scene in Antwerp remains vibrant, with veteran venues like Cafe d’Anvers continuing to thrive amidst a bustling festival calendar and edgy spots springing up in the trendy Borgerhout area.
Creative Spirits
The upcoming Antwerp Baroque 2018 festival celebrates Peter Paul Rubens’ legacy alongside the work of contemporary artists like Luc Tuymans and Jan Fabre. At the Rubenhuis museum, visitors can admire Tintoretto’s remarkable painting, The Angel Foretelling Saint Catherine of Alexandria of Her Martyrdom, now reunited with its rightful home after a previous ownership by David Bowie. The museum also showcases a newly restored self-portrait of Rubens, providing insight into the emotional depth and artistic legacy of the era.
A visit to the city would be incomplete without experiencing the Plantin-Moretus Museum. Nestled in a picturesque square in the historic center, this museum provides a captivating delve into the world of printing. Featuring two of the world’s oldest printing presses and adorned with works by Rubens, the museum stands as a testament to Antwerp’s rich history as a multicultural hub that shaped modern literature.
