Family-Friendly Travel in Sri Lanka: A Guide for Traveling with Kids

This island boasts an array of attractions throughout the year. With vigorous trade winds alternating coastlines for six months, it offers idyllic retreats on both sides, each with distinct characteristics. Nevertheless, during our family excursion in Sri Lanka, after several coastal getaways with our children, we aimed to truly explore the country. This did not involve merely boarding a plane for a brief journey to a luxurious resort equipped with a kids’ club and poolside mimosas. Our intent was to engage in genuine travel with our children in Sri Lanka.

Our adventure commenced in Colombo, the intriguing capital filled with colonial history, representing a striking fusion of Eastern and Western influences alongside modern developments. A significant influx of foreign investment has transformed this town, with cranes dotting the skyline and ambitious projects such as coastal reclamation and billion-dollar residential complexes anticipated to materialize in 2019. Colombo has quickly transitioned from a provincial town to a bustling modern city.

Among the numerous quality dining options, we opted to visit the renowned Ministry of Crab, one of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, where we surprisingly experienced a relaxing atmosphere with the children. Nestled within the historic courtyard of a former Dutch hospital, the venue provided ample space for our kids to expend their energy while we savored our wine and admired the rich colonial heritage.

OUR FAMILY HOLIDAY IN SRI LANKA – KANDY

While we found exploring Colombo fascinating, the urban landscape did not align with our ideal family holiday, compelling us to retreat to the hills. We elected to take the train through the enchanting hillside and tea plantations. Although it is possible to board the train directly from Colombo, the most renowned route traverses from Kandy to Ella. Consequently, we opted for a taxi to visit the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage en route.

The orphanage serves as a sanctuary for young, abandoned elephants as well as injured ones, with the goal of rehabilitating them for release back into their natural habitats. As the only Westerners present in the park, we appreciated the experience of being in a less-traveled locale. The local patrons appeared more intrigued by our blonde-haired children than the orphaned elephants. Our children were thrilled to have the opportunity to feed the elephants for a nominal fee, with the proceeds designated for the care of these magnificent animals. After our visit, we proceeded to the picturesque town of Kandy, where we wished for more time to explore. Due to a delayed departure from Colombo, we arrived in Kandy just as the sun was setting, creating a stunning backdrop from the Theva Residency, Kandy, our delightful boutique hotel situated in the hills, just a short tuk-tuk ride from the city center, which offered breathtaking views. Positioned at a higher elevation, the temperature was refreshingly cool compared to the perpetual summer of Singapore, compelling us to don light sweaters in the pleasantly low 20s.

A STAY AT THEVA RESIDENCY, KANDY

Address: Theva Residency Road, Kandy (Location Map)

The next phase of our family adventure in Sri Lanka was the scenic railway journey from Kandy to Ella. A significant piece of advice is to secure tickets well in advance, as they become available 45 days prior to travel and are quickly snapped up by travel agents, tourists, and locals, often resold at inflated prices in the black market. We utilized our concierge in Colombo to acquire tickets, resulting in a cost approximately five times the standard price; however, the typical fare is about $10. There are four options available for rail travel in Sri Lanka: first class with air conditioning, second class with reserved seating, and third class without seating. For travelling with children, we were advised to select second-class tickets.

The Kandy train station itself is a stunning sight, evoking the nostalgia of a bygone era surrounded by vintage steam locomotives, coal, and layers of soot in a well-utilized train yard. We took extra care to queue appropriately, as we were informed that boarding could result in a frantic scramble, and mistakenly entering the wrong carriage might complicate matters — not an ideal situation with young children. Surprisingly, the experience was seamless, and the staff proved to be exceptionally accommodating. We boarded the second-class carriage, which lacked air conditioning but did feature fans, and most importantly, we had reserved seating. Traveling with a two-and-a-half and a six-year-old necessitated this guarantee. Another advantage of the second class is that the windows open, allowing for a wonderful opportunity to absorb the stunning scenery and capture memorable photographs. This leisurely train ride averages about 50 km/h, paving the way for a comfortable experience inside the charmingly rickety carriage. The breathtaking surrounding landscape consisted of dense vegetation, monkeys, and local residences. Some homes, merely a tin roof and dirt floor, boast million-dollar views overlooking majestic waterfalls. The variety of landscapes rendered this six-hour train journey from Kandy to Ella remarkably enjoyable. Despite our initial concerns regarding our children’s engagement, they thoroughly relished the train experience; the rhythmic sounds that had once been mere elements of their storybooks had come alive. They eagerly identified monkeys, waterfalls, tea plantations, and beautiful colonial bridges as we traversed the serene highlands. As the temperature cooled, we turned off the fans, causing our youngest to fade into slumber amidst the excitement.

YOU CAN WATCH OUR SHORT VIDEO OF SOME OF THE STUNNING SCENERY FROM THE TRAIN HERE – THE ADVANTAGE OF THE SECOND-CLASS CARRIAGES IS YOU CAN OPEN THE WINDOWS AND DOORS

OUR FAMILY HOLIDAY IN SRI LANKA – ELLA

Along the route, there are multiple stops ideal for adventurous travelers, such as Little Adams Peak; however, our journey concluded in Ella. Many visitors continue past Ella or even walk along the track to the next bridge as it is exceptionally scenic. Nevertheless, our children’s enjoyment of the train ride was drawing to a close, necessitating our shift to our next priority — dinner, a refreshing shower, and clean bed linens. We flagged down one of the many taxis waiting at the small Ella train station (which reminded me of a mini-Ubud) and took a scenic route down the mountainside, halting at a quaint café boasting panoramic views and a roadside waterfall that seemed tailored for those who had trekked miles through a tropical jungle. While it felt like we had cheated nature by simply driving up to this serene ecosystem, we had no complaints, and our children were eager to exit the vehicle. A minor drawback of this family holiday in Sri Lanka was the car sickness attributable to the winding roads.

Our stay was situated about 25 minutes from Ella (though the town itself appeared enchanting) at a notable establishment called Jetwing Kaduruketha, Wellawaya. This establishment was one of the tour highlights. The property resembled a villa resort, with individual “eco-dwellings” scattered throughout the grounds, surrounded by rice paddy fields and a creek, which is ideal for wildlife spotting and swimming in natural pools during the rainy season. The Jetwing Kaduruketha is enveloped by vividly green rice fields with breathtaking blue skies and the mountainous backdrop of Ella, offering a serene respite by the pool, where, with drinks in hand, we embraced the tranquility while our children explored the area. The staff were exceedingly accommodating, offering exceptional cuisine, and wished to guide us to various cultural sites, from local villages to hidden waterfalls, and including birdwatching and nocturnal trails to glimpse Sri Lanka’s wildlife. This resort caters well to young honeymooners, families, and older couples seeking to unwind.

A STAY AT JETWING KADURUKETHA, WELLAWAYA

Address: Wellawaya, near Ella (Location Map)

OUR FAMILY HOLIDAY IN SRI LANKA – UDAWALAWE

Subsequently, we ventured from Ella toward one of our children’s most anticipated segments of our journey, Udawalawe, where we experienced glamping at Master Campers Sri Lanka, where we were assured encounters with elephants in their natural habitats.

We were not disappointed; even before reaching Udawalawe, we spotted elephants on the reserves’ periphery. This safari park, although less renowned than Yala National Park, which is known for its leopards, boasts a much larger elephant population. The accommodation in the area is still adapting to the growing demand for eco-tourism; however, we conducted thorough research and opted for a more extravagant experience, feeling more immersive in a tented setting rather than a hotel room. The campsite of Master Campers Sri Lanka is located near wetlands, granted we had front-row seats to nature’s inception, as our kids cheerfully sang “Hakuna Matata” in the background. The staff were extraordinarily friendly and attentive, taking commendable care of our family. We experienced true pampering characteristic of glamping, setting a high standard for future camping expeditions with our children.

A STAY AT MASTER CAMPERS, UDAWALAWE

Address: Waweyayagama Udawalwe (Location Map)

Another significant advantage of residing at Master Campers Sri Lanka is their extensive experience within the Udawalawe Reserve, being only a five-minute drive to the park entrance (some hotels require over an hour’s journey). Our guide, the renowned Roy, provided an unforgettable safari experience, skillfully navigating us through the park’s hidden gems and guiding us toward elephant herds, with proximity so close we could nearly touch them. The sheer number of elephants, as well as peacocks, monkeys, yaks, crocodiles, and antelope, was astounding; we lost count as we became enthralled by the intricate family behaviors on display. The adventure was so remarkable that we opted to embark on another safari the following morning with our children, slightly postponing our journey toward the coast. Nevertheless, we could not conclude our family expedition in Sri Lanka without visiting the ocean.

YOU CAN WATCH THE VIDEO OF OUR CLOSE ELEPHANT ENCOUNTER WITH THE BIG DADDY HERE. YOU CAN HEAR OUR GUIDE ROY SAY – “QUIET, QUIET, THIS IS NOT GOOD, THIS BIG ONE!”

OUR FAMILY HOLIDAY IN SRI LANKA – TANGALLE

From Udawalawe, we proceeded south, as we were keen not to deviate too far from our route. Despite the beauty of Arugam Bay, it was in the opposite direction from the airport; thus, we believed that the southern coast would present a more convenient return journey home (easier by approximately six hours). Our destination was Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle, a delightful five-star resort encompassing all the luxurious amenities expected, making a family holiday in Sri Lanka feel effortlessly enjoyable. This resort features a kids’ club and poolside service, nestled on a rugged coastline with a bay uniquely crafted for the hotel’s guests. Dining at the hillside restaurant il Mare Italian was a sublime experience, offering magnificent sunset views alongside ample space for children to frolic on the grassy hill. We heard that turtles typically hatch along the beach around this time, but unfortunately, we missed this remarkable event.

ANANTARA PEACE HAVEN TANGALLE

Address: Goyambokka Estate, Tangalle (Location Map)

OUR FAMILY HOLIDAY IN SRI LANKA – WELIGAMA

Continuing our journey, we sought a modest yet uniquely charming bed-and-breakfast style accommodation at Eraeliya Villas and Garden in Weligama. The ambiance of the hotel exuded a homely feel, resembling an eight-bedroom house.

While in Weligama, we enjoyed exploring the nearby plantation, aquarium, and dining at excellent restaurants, yet it was the ocean that captivated us. We rented surfboards and paddled into the warm, friendly waves with our children, teaching them to stand up as they splashed and giggled until we returned for a meal of freshly caught seafood. It felt as though we were visiting generous friends in their home, which echoed the charm of colonial-style residences. Although we were aware it was not the peak beach season for the Southern coast, we embraced the overcast, sometimes rainy days, seizing the opportunity to swim and surf regardless.

A STAY AT ERAELIYA VILLAS AND GARDEN, WELIGAMA

Address: 299 Walliwalla, Kaparathota, Weligama (Location Map)

We dedicated the final days of our expedition to soaking up the saltwater before we faced the bittersweet journey back to the airport and onward to the bustling metropolis of Singapore. As the children slumbered during the three-hour car ride, I envisioned the elephants, turtles, monkeys, and waves cascading through their dreams.

Sri Lanka is undeniably a land of magnificence, offering endless possibilities for diverse itineraries, ranging from coastal retreats to luxury accommodations, from scenic hilltops to exhilarating wildlife safaris, as well as surf escapades. With its extensive offerings, Sri Lanka will soon be a sought-after destination.

This account of our Sri Lanka family holiday titled “Travelling with Kids in Sri Lanka” was authored by James and @kelly_beckwith of GoTravelDaily.