Summary
In the 19th century, the fortified coastal city of Essaouira served as Morocco’s primary seaport, linking trade routes through its Saharan hinterland with global markets.
Essaouira experienced revitalization in the century prior under Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah (1710-1790). He established a significant Jewish quarter and appointed the French engineer, Théodore Cornut, to design ramparts reminiscent of those by Vauban, constructed from the remnants of a Portuguese fortress.
The grand artillery platforms remain intact today and have served as backdrops for films and television series, including Game of Thrones.
Located at the head of a sandy bay, Essaouira is continually refreshed by trade winds, providing ideal conditions for numerous kite surfers.
1. Essaouira Medina
Guarded by extensive 18th-century ramparts, Essaouira’s Medina is a fortified town characterized by European military architecture within a North African context.
This designation has earned it UNESCO World Heritage status, particularly due to the many traces of multicultural life evident along the narrow, winding streets following its regeneration by Mohammed ben Abdallah.
Berbers, Arabs, Europeans, and Africans cohabited, with the substantial Mellah (Jewish quarter) containing two cemeteries and several synagogues open for visitation.
The Medina is comparatively smaller and less chaotic than those in Marrakesh and Fez, with shopkeepers and restaurant touts generally being more subdued, resulting in a reduced likelihood of disorientation.
2. Sqala du Port
Under the gaze of a square tower adorned with bartizans, the Sqala du Port represents a lengthy embattled artillery platform constructed in the architectural style of a Vauban fortress in 1769. This platform safeguards the harbor with two 200-meter structures, extending from the Bab el-Marsa gate eastward toward the tower, and then southward to the circular Borj el-Barmil bastion.
The tower is accessible, providing a comprehensive view of the ramparts and the port, characterized by its collection of blue wooden boats.
Interspersed among the crenellations, one can find original 18th-century bronze cannons, primarily cast in Spain and the Netherlands.
This evocative location served as a filming site for Orson Welles’ Othello in 1951 and later as the slavers’ city of Astapor in the third season of Game of Thrones.
3. Sqala de la Kasbah
Situated at the northern end of Rue Skala, the Sqala de la Kasbah was built in 1765 and is aligned with two levels beside rocky outcrops pounded by the Atlantic waves.
At the upper level is the bastion, Borj Nord, featuring arches and bartizans that you may explore.
The artillery platform is equipped with numerous bronze cannons, forged in Barcelona and Seville between 1743 and 1782, each measuring 3.25 meters in length and capable of firing up to 1,500 meters.
Along the narrow Rue Skala below, the former arched gun positions now accommodate small souvenir shops.
4. Bab el-Marsa
A defining feature of Essaouira is the fortified gate that leads to the Sqala du Port.
This Baroque edifice, complete with a frieze, pediment, scrolls, and fluted pillars, was erected in 1770 by the renegade architect Ahmed el Inglizi.
Notably, el Inglizi was an English convert to Islam, whose architectural influence is also found in Rabat, where he constructed fortifications and restored a medieval mosque.
The inscription on the pediment reads, “Glory to God. This gate, commissioned by the most illustrious of Kings, Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah, was built by his servant Ahmed Laalaj.” It includes the date, 1184 (1770).
5. Essaouira Beach
Beginning just east of the harbor, this gently sloping sandy beach extends along the Bay of Essaouira, reaching as far as the mouth of the Oued Ksob river several kilometers away.
Mogador Island, situated at the entrance to the bay, offers protection from the open Atlantic waves, resulting in calmer waters.
While it is generally safer than most Atlantic beaches, children should remain near the shore.
The Bay of Essaouira is swept by invigorating trade winds, creating optimal conditions for kite surfing—a popular water sport. Numerous companies, including Bluekite, Loving Surf, Ion Club, Ananas, Yalla Surf, Kite Paradise, Mogasurf, and Yousurf, provide licensed instruction in kite surfing, traditional surfing, and paddleboarding.
In the quieter southern area, visitors can embark on horseback or camel rides, offering a unique perspective of the sunset.
6. Le Souk
Smaller in size compared to the bazaars of Marrakesh and Fez, the arcaded Souk in Essaouira features the advantage of being easier to navigate and offers goods at more affordable prices than those in larger tourist cities.
This souk is divided into various sections, with the primary area dedicated to handcrafted souvenirs including garments, geometric tiles, colorful ceramic dishes, tagines, glassware, stenciled lamps, ornate teapots, inlaid woodwork, and silver jewelry.
Additionally, visitors will encounter sections for food and produce, showcasing stacks of khobz bread, olives, nuts, spices, garlic, chilies, jars of preserved lemons, and a variety of living and dead animals.
7. Fishing Port
For early risers, a stroll to the harbor allows you to witness the fishing boats returning with their catch just as dawn breaks.
Despite its modest size, this port is one of the most productive in the nation, attributed to the Canary Current and the robust trade winds.
The harbor remains lively well into the afternoon, and while it offers a lively sensory experience and may feel slightly rough, it remains visually captivating with its industrious seagulls and blue-painted wooden boats.
The distinctive blue paint historically derived from shells collected on the Iles Purpuraires since Roman times.
8. Mellah
In the 18th century, when Mohammed ben Abdallah (1710-1790) rejuvenated Essaouira, he encouraged Jewish individuals to settle in the city and facilitate trade with Europe.
At one time, Jews constituted nearly half of Essaouira’s population, and while the community has diminished significantly, the Mellah (Jewish Quarter) continues to exist in the northeast of the Medina.
Visitors can access two Jewish cemeteries, both of which are open for visitation upon requesting entry via the contact number posted on the gates.
The older of the two cemeteries is positioned right by the ocean, often overflowed by the tides.
Though many inscriptions have worn away, it’s still possible to discern markings on the tombs indicating the gender of the occupant: circles for males and triangles for females, alongside several preserved synagogues from the approximately 40 that were present here in the 19th century.
In the Mellah, guests should visit the Synagogue Slat Lkahal, currently undergoing restoration, as well as Simon Attia, which safeguards its precious scrolls, black and white photographs of the community, and the rabbi’s quarters below.
9. Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah Museum
This museum, located in a 19th-century mansion on Rue Laâlouj, houses an intriguing collection of artifacts dating back to the Phoenician era.
Initially a noble residence, the building is organized around a central patio and fountain and served as Essaouira’s town hall during the French Protectorate in the 20th century.
The museum narrates the city’s history from prehistoric times to the era of Mohammed ben Abdallah, featuring panels detailing Essaouira’s natural heritage and historical local trades, such as argan oil extraction.
Significant artifacts include coins minted in the city during the 18th century, traditional jewelry from Berber, Jewish, and Arab cultures, as well as ritualistic objects and musical instruments associated with the Gnaoua, Hmadcha, Melhoun, Andalusian, and Berber cultures.
Additionally, exhibits include costumes, fine craftsmanship in cedar, carpet weaving, stucco designs, and Roman amphorae discovered intact in the Bay of Essaouira.
10. Fish Market
Essaouira boasts two fish markets: one positioned directly on the fishing harbor and another, larger indoor facility located on Avenue Mohammed Zerktouni.
At both locations, you can choose from a variety of fresh catches, such as sardines, shrimp, red snapper, conger eel, and squid, and take your selections to nearby restaurants, where they will be promptly grilled over charcoal.
This arrangement, however, can be somewhat tricky, as the restaurants typically lack a fixed price list and may attempt to overcharge.
In such situations, local insight from a reliable guide can prove invaluable.
11. Place Moulay Hassan
Situated at the entrance to the Medina, Place Moulay Hassan serves as an expansive square at the tip of the peninsula sheltering the fishing port.
Open to the south and west, this square offers an unobstructed view of the fortified tower and ocean from the seawall.
The sunsets here are spectacular, drawing Essaouira’s residents who come to walk and socialize at the terraces lining the northern side of the plaza.
In June, this area transforms into the largest stage for the annual Gnaoua World Music Festival.
12. Three-Hour Guided Tour with Tastings
With so much to experience in Essaouira, it’s easy to feel as though you might miss something.
A means to mitigate this is through the guidance of a knowledgeable local, as there exists a three-hour tour available on GetYourGuide.com.
This tour will guide you through all the essential sites including the ramparts, fishing port, and fish market while also uncovering some gems you might overlook.
Expect visits to Essaouira’s oldest bakery, demonstrations of Arabic calligraphy, and opportunities to observe artisans at work in their studios.
The tour concludes with grilled fish from the market, a traditional Moroccan dessert, and the customary finishing touch of mint tea.
13. One-Hour Horseback Ride
This excursion, advertised on GetYourGuide.com, involves traversing the Oued Ksob river to the Ranch de Diabat, approximately three kilometers from Essaouira’s medina.
From this point, you will embark on an hour-long trek along the pristine beach, with novice riders enjoying a leisurely trot while taking in the views of Mogador Island and its ancient fortifications.
More experienced riders may opt for a faster-paced gallop through the gentle surf.
The trail passes by the remnants of the palace constructed by Mohammed ben Abdallah on the left bank of the Oued Ksob river.
14. Half-Day Quad Bike Tour
Also found on Diabat’s wild beach, the Half-Day Quad Bike Tour takes participants into the high dunes that lie beyond.
After a briefing on safety and ample time to familiarize yourself with your vehicle, you will venture into the dunes for a three-hour journey, ascending steep slopes to vantage points that afford stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean.
These quad bikes feature a 125cc engine, and the tour includes transportation from and to your hotel, as well as refreshments and photos captured by your guide.
15. Gnaoua World Music Festival
The Gnawa community originates from Western and Central Africa, having been introduced to Morocco as slaves.
The term Gnaoua derives from the Berber word for “slave.” Rooted in this culture are ancient prayer and healing practices, accompanied by music that has evolved into contemporary Gnawa music.
Their performances feature rhythmic plucking of the low-toned sintir, hand clapping, and call-and-response singing.
The Gnaoua World Music Festival, an eclectic celebration, takes place over four days in late June and attracts thousands to the city.
Each year, the event features masters of Gnawa music alongside performers from genres such as jazz, blues, funk, pop, rock, and various other world music styles.
