Summary of Attractions in Montauban
An hour north of Toulouse, the city of Montauban in the Tarn-et-Garonne Department exhibits the elegant brick architecture typical of the region.
The predominant use of red bricks infuses the city with a delightful pink hue.
In its brickwork, one may uncover the narratives of the sieges and conflicts that unfolded on these streets during the Wars of Religion, when Montauban firmly adhered to Protestantism.
Cross the medieval Pont Vieux, enjoy a coffee at the arcaded Place Nationale, and familiarize yourself with prominent artists who originated from the city, such as Ingres and Antoine Bourdelle.
Let us delve into the top attractions in Montauban:
1. Place Nationale
Mirroring the characteristic layout of medieval bastide towns, Montauban features a central arcaded square, yet this space is notably more grandiose than typical examples.
Two tiers of arcaded walkways sit beneath striking brick townhouses.
This unique structure results from a fire that consumed the square’s wooden houses in the 17th century, prompting King Louis XIII to offer assistance in the reconstruction.
The prohibition on wooden buildings led to the creation of this uniform and atmospheric gathering spot.
Cafés, bars, and restaurants nestle beneath the arches, their terraces spilling onto the square.
If you rise early, you will encounter a small market held here every morning.
2. Musée Ingres
Towards the latter part of his career, the renowned 19th-century painter Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres donated various works and personal belongings to Montauban, his birthplace.
Ultimately, this collection was relocated to the city’s 17th-century Episcopal palace, featuring four floors dedicated to Ingres, his pupils, art pieces from the 15th to the 19th centuries, and archaeological artifacts from diverse periods and locations.
The museum encompasses over 50 paintings acquired by Ingres during his career, which includes copies of Raphael and Leonardo da Vinci, as well as primitive works.
At the time of writing, the museum is temporarily closed for renovations; however, it stands as one of Montauban’s cultural focal points and will likely be among your first stops once it reopens.
In the interim, Ingres’ paintings are displayed at other venues throughout the city.
3. Centre du Patrimoine
To gain a comprehensive understanding of Montauban’s history and culture, one should visit the old Jesuits’ College located on Rue du Collège.
Centered around a courtyard, the venue houses galleries and a resource center, all designed with engaging contemporary aesthetics.
The main permanent exhibition guides visitors through the urban development of Montauban, elucidating the political, social, and economic contexts of each phase.
Additionally, artifacts from various city museums enrich the narrative.
Temporary exhibitions may focus on specific monuments or periods in Montauban’s history, along with a rotating display of local art.
4. Port Canal
The Canal de Montech represents a brief yet scenic waterway connecting the Tarn river, located just south of Montauban, with the Canal de Garonne, which in turn links the cities of Toulouse and Bordeaux.
In recent years, Montauban has devoted significant resources to enhancing its “Port Canal,” including the installation of new docks for boats and the establishment of an activity center and bar that features live music in the evenings.
The port lies only 10 minutes on foot from the city center and serves as an ideal starting point for leisurely strolls along the waterways.
Bicycle rentals are also available here at a modest price of €3 for half a day.
5. Tour of the Old Town
As you wander through the heart of Montauban, you will appreciate the city’s distinctive architecture, predominantly characterized by the extensive use of red bricks.
This encompasses numerous Neoclassical structures that integrate bricks with stucco, adorned with balustrades, arches, and statue pedestals crafted from the same material.
Key sites to note include Hôtel Mila de Cabarieu on Rue des Cames, the elegant mansions along Rue de la Comédie, Place Maréchal-Foch, and the brick archway of Hôtel Lefranc de Pompignan.
The squares showcase numerous works by the early 20th-century sculptor Antoine Bourdelle, another notable figure from Montauban’s cultural heritage.
6. Pont Vieux
In the 12th century, Montauban sought permission to construct a fortified bridge to protect itself from the Abbots of Montauriol to the north.
This endeavor led to the establishment of the bridge spanning the Tarn into the old city, although its completion extended over a period of two centuries.
While crossing, take a moment to admire the view of the Episcopal Palace, Church of Saint-Jacques, and the lush riverbanks, reflecting on the historical violence that transpired in this area during sieges in the 16th and 17th centuries.
Initially, the Huguenots overtook Montauban, establishing it as a Protestant stronghold for half a century until Louis XIII expelled them in 1629. Regrettably, the original fortifications were lost to these conflicts or repurposed for constructing the Episcopal Palace in 1663.
7. Musée Victor Brun
Montauban’s natural history collection resides on the first floor of this elegant Neoclassical palace located on Place Antoine Bourdelle.
Notably, this building historically served as the Cour des Aides, the supreme court during the Ancien Régime, overseeing public finance and customs.
Before entering, visitors should be prepared to encounter a diverse array of taxidermy exhibits featuring birds, mammals, and reptiles.
This collection includes monkeys, an elephant, and a kangaroo; while some may find them less appealing, the mineral and fossil specimens may captivate the interest: among these are phosphorites from Quercy dating back as far as 50 million years and fragments of the Orgueil meteorite, which fell in the region in 1864.
8. Montauban Cathedral
Interestingly, Montauban’s cathedral does not rank among the city’s primary tourist attractions.
Situated at the highest point, the cathedral’s façade stands in contrast to the surrounding area, constructed from white stone instead of the usual red brick.
Throughout much of the 16th century and until 1629, Montauban maintained a Protestant identity.
The Huguenots had demolished the previous medieval cathedral in 1560, and this Classical replacement only commenced construction in the late 17th century.
The dimensions of this edifice are remarkable, with the central portal recognized as the tallest in Europe, even exceeding that of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.
Within the left transept, you can find Ingres’ painting, “Vue de Louis XIII” from 1824.
9. Complexe Aquatique Ingreo
Inaugurated in 2013, Montauban’s aquatic center serves as more than a mere municipal pool; it ranks as the third-largest aquatic complex in France, catering to both tourists and local residents.
The facility features six indoor and outdoor pools, a hammam, saunas, a state-of-the-art gym, and a relaxing balcony area.
Children can enjoy play pools and slides, while adult swimmers will appreciate the Olympic-sized outdoor pool, which remains open during winter months with heated water exceeding 20°C, despite the falling temperatures outside.
10. Église Saint-Jacques
Alongside the Pont Vieux, this church represents the solitary remnant of the medieval era in Montauban.
The most ancient section of the church is also its most visually striking; the octagonal bell tower dates back to the 1200s, resting atop a slightly younger base complemented by machicolations.
During the French Wars of Religion, the church endured significant strife; its clergy were slaughtered, and the building repurposed for military use and stockpiling weapons.
A closer examination of the façade reveals markings left by cannonballs from the royal siege of 1621.
11. Musée de la Résistance et du Combattant
Situated within the park surrounding the Ingreo aquatic complex, this museum chronicles the history of the Second World War in the Montauban region.
Founded in 1989 following an exhibition of war memorabilia by a former Resistance deportee, the museum has since accumulated numerous donations, expanding its collection of Second World War artifacts.
Visitors can expect a comprehensive chronological depiction of the war’s progression locally, with exhibitions detailing the internment camp in Septfronds and the international contingent of fighters allied with the Resistance during the occupation.
12. Moissac Abbey
Being less than 20 minutes away from this medieval architectural marvel, visiting Moissac Abbey is highly recommended.
As a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a historic waypoint on the Way of St. James pilgrimage to Compostela, its architectural complexity and embellishments date back to the 11th and 12th centuries.
The sheer intricacy and abundance of Romanesque sculpture at this site are nearly unparalleled, and one might easily lose track of time while admiring the carvings created nearly a millennium ago.
Begin your visit at the tympanum above the church’s portal, depicting the apocalypse as described in the Book of Revelations.
Then, proceed to the cloister, which features 76 astonishing capitals that illustrate stories from both the Old and New Testaments, along with the lives of the martyrs.
13. Bruniquel
Also easily accessible is one of France’s “most beautiful villages,” perched on a cliff overlooking the Aveyron Gorge.
The initial sights are the towers of two medieval castles that oversee the town’s landscape.
The older structure, dating back to the 1100s, served as the residence of William of Tudela, who authored the Song of the Albigensian Crusade, documenting the harsh 13th-century repression of the Cathar sect.
If you experience vertigo, you may wish to avoid the view from the cliffside gallery! The younger castle, dating from the 1400s, encompasses fascinating prehistoric axes, needles, and harpoon heads discovered within the gorge’s caves.
Do not miss wandering through the narrow winding streets adorned with ancient timber-framed houses.
14. Montauban Wine
To the north of the city, the clay-limestone slopes of the Aveyron Valley are home to the vineyards of Coteaux et Terrasses de Montauban, renowned for producing a diverse array of wines.
Here, grapes such as Merlot, Syrah, Tannat, Gamay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and several others thrive, yielding red, white, and rosé wines.
The whites are noted for their fragrant and fresh character, the reds are elegant and supple, while the rosés are praised for their fruity and lively profiles.
Discover the accuracy of these descriptions at the many wine cellars in Montauban (Blanc Rouge, La Cave L, Plaisirs du Vin, V and B), which support their selections with knowledgeable guidance.
15. Local Food
In recognition of the valiant efforts of the 6,000 Huguenots who defended the city against 20,000 royal troops during the siege of 1621, Montauban offers the Boulet de Montauban (Cannonballs), a confection of hazelnuts enrobed in chocolate, delightfully packaged.
The city lies within a renowned foie-gras producing region, making it a worthwhile delicacy to sample at local dining venues, also available for purchase in pots and cans at markets for home preparation.
The regional cheese, Cabécou Autan, is a creamy goat cheese with a robust flavor complemented by subtle hazelnut notes.
Lastly, the “Mountalbane” is a local brioche infused with orange blossom water, rum, and vanilla, adorned with sugar and candied, delicately wrapped in pleated parchment paper.
