Summary
On the banks of the Charente River as it meanders towards the Atlantic Ocean, the city of Saintes once served as the Roman capital of Aquitaine. The remnants of ancient Mediolanum Santonum, including the amphitheater, arches, baths, and numerous fragments of sculpture and stonework, are all weathered yet profoundly moving.
As history progressed, Saintes maintained influence over the historic Saintogne province, featuring the Romanesque Abbaye aux Dames and the pilgrimage Church of Saint-Eutrope. These monuments become even more atmospheric when accompanied by the sounds of Medieval and Renaissance music during the Festival de Saintes each July. Additionally, one can enjoy the scenic Charente and its riverside parks, or savor the exquisite flavors of Cognac produced nearby.
Here are the top attractions in Saintes:
1. Amphitheatre Gallo-Romain
The Roman amphitheater of Saintes, the finest remnant of ancient Mediolanum Santonum, dates back to the reign of Emperor Claudius in 40 AD. It once accommodated up to 15,000 spectators who gathered to witness gladiatorial contests and battles involving wild animals.
The lower tier of seating remains intact, as do some arches, which allow visitors to discern the structure of the stone terraces and passages ascending the surrounding hillsides.
The arena floor represents the best-preserved aspect of the site, measuring 66.5 meters long by 39 meters wide; it continues to serve as a venue for concerts and festivals during the summer months.
2. Abbaye aux Dames
Founded by the Count of Anjou in the 11th century, the Abbaye aux Dames boasts numerous remnants of its original architecture and was established as a Benedictine Convent for women from noble lineages.
Eleanor of Aquitaine contributed to the abbey, while Agnes of Burgundy found refuge here following the death of the Count of Anjou.
The abbey church, the oldest section, showcases 11th and 12th-century Romanesque architecture, highlighted by an emblematic “pine cone” bell tower.
Visitors should not miss the intricate carvings in the tympanum above the western portal, featuring animals sculpted in a distinctive style recognizable throughout the Saintogne region in churches located in Colombiers, Aulnay, and Marignac.
3. Arch of Germanicus
Older than the amphitheater, this grand archway dates back to the reign of Tiberius, around the year 18 AD. Contrary to its appearance, it is not a triumphal arch commemorating military victory; it was constructed and financed by a wealthy local citizen in honor of Emperor Tiberius, his son Drusus, and his nephew and adopted son Germanicus.
This conclusion is based on the faint inscriptions discernible in the stone.
The monument formerly signified the terminus of the Roman road extending from Lyon to Saintes, although the precise location is now approximately 15 meters displaced due to repositioning during the 19th-century quayside construction.
4. Saintes Cathedral
A great deal can be gathered about Saintes simply by contemplating its cathedral.
The immediate impression is the stocky appearance of its bell tower.
This structure is capped with a copper dome rather than a traditional spire, as the original was damaged during the French Wars of Religion in the 16th century.
After the conflict, financial constraints inhibited the restoration of the spire, leading to its current height of 58 meters instead of the original 96. The interior similarly suffered, resulting in a blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture characterized by sober lines balanced with intricate details, such as the western portal adorned with figures from the Old Testament, angels, and apostles.
5. Musée Archéologique
During the 19th century, excavations of Roman sites in Saintes yielded an extraordinary collection of carved stones.
These artifacts were relocated to the city’s former abattoir, situated on the right bank of the Charente just a short distance from the Arch of Germanicus.
Under the guidance of the curator of Saintes’ museums, the new site was designed to resemble a Roman residence, complete with arches and trellises.
Inside, visitors will find sculptures of various types, including funerary, ornamental, and religious works, alongside reliefs, column fragments, and mosaic remnants.
Noteworthy among these is a headless statue carved from Carrara marble, presumed to represent Drusus Caesar, the son of Germanicus.
6. Basilique Saint-Eutrope
A significant point on the Way of St James pilgrimage route, this 11th-century church features both a lower and upper church.
It is essential to prioritize the lower church on your itinerary: A Romanesque marvel, it houses the cenotaph of Saint Eutrope, set at the core of a choir adorned with expertly carved capitals.
This lower section was designed to facilitate the uninterrupted church activities above while allowing pilgrims to enter below to pray at Saint Eutrope’s tomb.
Take a moment to adjust to the lighting, and this remarkable subterranean space will unveil its secrets.
7. Jardin Public
Located downstream from the Arch of Germanicus on the right bank of the Charente, the Jardin Public spans three hectares of parterre and English-style gardens interlaced with pathways.
The park includes a playground for children and a small menagerie featuring goats and ducks.
One of the most delightful areas for a stroll is the pathway adjacent to the Charente, where visitors can observe river traffic, moored boats on wooden pontoons, and gaze across to the cathedral.
A charming old orangery in the park has been transformed into a “salon de thé.”
8. Logis du Gouverneur Belvedere
This elevated area over the old town is currently undergoing renovations, yet it remains worthwhile to explore.
The site features the Logis de Gouverneur, an elegant 17th-century mansion that represents the last remnant of Saintes’ 17th-century citadel.
However, the most remarkable aspect is the panoramic views of the city available from the cliff-top walkway.
The sweeping vista reveals a sea of terracotta-tiled roofs, offering a clear indication that visitors are entering the South of France at Saintes.
9. Charente Cruises
In the 16th century, King Francis I declared the Charente as the most beautiful river within the kingdom, and in Saintes, there are numerous opportunities to evaluate his claim.
For those seeking a leisurely experience, vessels such as the Bernard Palissy II and La Gabare are docked at the jetty in Saintes, offering all-day cruises along this broad and winding river.
The cruises feature informative commentary on the stone villages and picturesque countryside that you will encounter, along with information packages available for non-French speaking guests.
Alternatively, you might consider renting a boat for a few days; many local companies provide craft that do not require a boating license.
10. Haras National
Encompassed by ten hectares of cedar and plane parkland on the eastern side of the city, the elegant neoclassical buildings of Saintes’ National Stud (Haras) stand proudly. Founded by Louis XIV, a branch has operated in Saintes since the mid-19th century.
The institution’s purpose is to select, preserve, and improve various equine breeds, including racing horses and the renowned Poitou donkey, known for its shaggy coat.
The hall contains a museum showcasing horse-drawn carriages and providing insight into the traditional trades of farriers (hoof specialists), grooms, and saddlers.
11. Thermes de Saint-Saloine
The Roman baths of Saintes date back to the early 1st century and were abandoned around the period of Late Antiquity when the structure was repurposed into an early Christian church.
This transition explains the origin of the ruins’ name.
Although little remains of the baths, visitors can easily discern the alcoves of the caldarium.
Water for the baths was channeled from the Charente via an aqueduct, and intriguing fragments of this structure can be located to the north of the city with assistance from the tourist office.
12. Musée de l’Échevinage
Prior to the Revolution, the Échevin or Alderman wielded significant authority in French towns, and his residence in the old town, dating from the 15th century in the aftermath of the 100 Years’ War, is noteworthy.
The building underwent an 18th-century renovation, with the Renaissance belfry, completed in 1587, being the oldest surviving element.
Visitors can explore Saintes’ only fine arts museum here, which compiled its collection in the 19th century, primarily from works originating in the Saintonge and Bordeaux schools, along with a piece by the renowned Gustave Courbet.
The decorative arts galleries also feature a delicate collection of hard paste porcelain from Sèvres.
13. Festival de Saintes
Mid-July sees ten days of classical music with 30 concerts held throughout the city.
Since its inception in 1972, the festival has utilized the Abbaye aux Dames as an ideal venue for showcasing “Early Music,” consisting of Medieval and Renaissance music up to the 1600s.
While Early Music remains a focal point of the festival, the program now encompasses works from Baroque composers such as Bach and Purcell, performed by eminent figures in French classical music.
Venues like the Cathedral, Lower Church of the Basilica, and Abbey add significant historical weight to the event.
14. Cognac
Although approximately 25 kilometers east of Cognac, the town of Saintes lies within the cognac-producing region.
The local vineyards, categorized as Fins Bois, produce eaux de vie, which serve as the base for many blended cognacs.
To visit major producers such as Martell, G et C Raby, and Courvoisier, it is a short half-hour drive to the west.
Visitors can explore small museums showcasing cognac memorabilia, observe functioning distilleries, tour cooperages and cellars, and learn about elevating food pairings with cognac.
Moreover, the highlight is the opportunity to taste this prestigious beverage.
15. Local Food
While the Atlantic Ocean is relatively distant, fish and seafood remain essential components of the local cuisine due to the navigable Charente River.
The gastronomy of the Charente region is characterized by dishes featuring eels, oysters, sardines, and other fresh and saltwater species.
Mouclade Charentaise, a signature regional dish, is prepared with mussels, shallots, egg yolks, and pineau, a fortified wine from Charente-Maritime.
Mussels can also be swapped for local snails, while this western region of France has a particular affinity for frog legs.
From the land, grigorits is a stew crafted from various pig parts, onions, and regional white wine, while rillettes represent a delectable type of pork pâté that is best enjoyed spread on crusty bread.
