Summary
- Museum of Fine Arts and Lace
- Notre-Dame Basilica
- Maison Natale de Sainte Thérèse
- Maison d’Ozé
- Château des Ducs
- Parc des Promenades
- Corn Exchange
- Maison à l’Étal
- Véloscénie
- Forêt d’Écouves
- Château de Carrouges
- Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei
- Les Jardins de la Mansonière
- Chapelle du Petit Saint-Céneri
- Food and Drink
Located in the southern region of Normandy’s Orne department, Alençon is an elegant town along the River Sarthe, primarily recognized for its lace-making heritage. Often referred to as the “queen of lace,” this town’s craftsmanship has garnered UNESCO recognition as an element of “intangible cultural heritage.” Visitors can explore this aspect of Alençon’s history at the Museum of Fine Arts and Lace, while the town also boasts other noteworthy historical connections.
Notably, Sainte Thérèse was born here, achieving significant recognition as one of the Catholic Church’s most celebrated figures in the late 19th century. Additionally, Marguerite de Navarre, the sister of the esteemed King Henri IV, resided in the heart of Alençon during the 1500s.
Let us delve into the primary attractions in Alençon:
1. Museum of Fine Arts and Lace
This exceptional museum, situated in a restored Jesuit college, provides an in-depth exploration of the techniques and historical significance of Alençon’s lace industry.
Visitors can view numerous lace examples originating from the town, alongside crafts from other notable lace-making cities such as Chantilly and Le Puy.
Beginning with an insightful video on textiles in this region of Normandy, attendees will then encounter a series of displays featuring exquisitely intricate dresses and decorative pieces.
The museum also houses a selection of paintings ranging from the Renaissance to the 19th century, created by renowned artists like Eugène Boudin, Nicolas Maes, and Pieter Boel.
2. Notre-Dame Basilica
Alençon’s principal place of worship, elevated to basilica status in 2009, has its origins dating back to 1356 when the foundation stone was laid.
The structure primarily showcases flamboyant Gothic architecture, with the nave adorned by magnificent stained glass windows created in 1530. After enduring a fire, the bell tower and choir were reconstructed in the 1700s, exhibiting a fascinating integration with the original architecture.
For Catholic visitors, an added incentive to explore the basilica lies in the fact that it is the site where Sainte Thérèse was baptized in 1873.
3. Maison Natale de Sainte Thérèse
Marie Françoise-Thérèse Martin, a Discalced Carmelite nun, passed away at the young age of 24 in 1897 and was canonized less than three decades later.
She has become the patron saint of various causes, including the Gardens of Vatican City, France, Russia, and individuals suffering from HIV/AIDS. To this day, she is regarded as a beloved figure among numerous members of the Catholic Church, with several miracles attributed to her during her brief life.
While her fervent popularity may astonish some, one can gain insight into her life at her birthplace on Rue Saint-Blaise, which operates as a shrine.
4. Maison d’Ozé
Situated adjacent to the basilica on Place de la Magdelaine, Maison d’Ozé is a turreted Gothic and Renaissance mansion constructed for the town’s alderman in the 1450s.
This venue serves as Alençon’s tourist office, allowing visitors to freely explore its premises.
In the 16th century, the Duke of Alençon, Charles de Valois, resided here with Marguerite de Navarre and welcomed her brother, the future King Henri IV, during part of 1576. The courtyard features charming gardens with formally manicured hedges and neatly trimmed cherry trees.
5. Château des Ducs
As you meander through Alençon’s historic center, you may be taken aback by the formidable presence of a gatehouse on Rue de la Chaussée.
This structure is almost all that remains of a once-mighty castle established in the 1100s and renovated over the following 300 years.
The gatehouse, towering five stories above the ground and separated from the street by a moat, features two robust crenellated towers flanking its entrance.
Although most of the castle’s original structure was demolished in the 16th century, a few towers persist, with the remaining sections having served as a prison until 2010. The property remains under the ownership of the French ministry of justice, with discussions underway regarding a future public opening.
6. Parc des Promenades
Directly behind the Château des Ducs lies Parc des Promenades, a former section of the Forêt d’Écouves where dukes and royalty historically hunted.
Converted into a public park in the late 18th century, the first elm tree was planted with great celebration in 1784. The Parc des Promenades stands out as a well-equipped and tranquil green space, offering abundant flower gardens, expansive lawns suitable for picnics, shaded pathways, a pond, and playground facilities for energetic children.
Younger visitors will also enjoy the small menagerie featuring goats, rabbits, and peacocks.
7. Corn Exchange
A striking structure located at the town’s center, the Corn Exchange (La Halle au Blé) features a circular layout topped by a glass roof.
The construction was finalized in 1819, with the glass dome added later in 1865. Upon completion, the metal and glass dome was referred to as the “crinoline of Alençon,” named for the cages used to support Victorian skirts. Initially a stock exchange for grain, the building has since become a unique venue for exhibitions and a picturesque location for Alençon’s skating rink during the Christmas season.
8. Maison à l’Étal
Located at number 10 Rue-Porte-de-la-Barre, the Maison à l’Étal (Stall House) is a charming 15th-century residence featuring unique characteristics.
The most notable feature is the granite bench or stall located beneath the ground floor window, likely a remnant from its days as a shop since most customers preferred to conduct business in daylight rather than in a possibly deceptive dark interior.
Additional charm comes from its first-floor façade entirely clad in blue-grey slate, complemented by an attractive wooden gable beneath the roof eaves.
9. Véloscénie
Since 2012, Alençon has been integrated into an extensive cross-country cycling network, connecting Notre-Dame in Paris to Mont-Saint-Michel along a 434-kilometer route.
With the Accueil Vélo brand, you are assured of high-quality bicycle services and accommodations that are friendly towards cyclists.
This allows for a theoretical ride through the Perche Hills and the Eure Valley, leading to Paris.
Alternatively, you could set your sights on the Normandy coastline, exploring the region’s lush “bocage” countryside, characterized by orchards and hedgerows.
Traffic will not be an issue, as Véloscénie typically utilizes quiet rural lanes for its routes.
10. Forêt d’Écouves
If you seek expansive open landscapes, the Forêt d’Écouves, frequented by Alençon’s royalty for hunting, begins just a couple of kilometers north of the town.
This forest forms part of the Normandie-Maine Regional Park and features rolling hills comprising the sandstone Amorican Massif.
As you venture deeper into the beech, oak, and pine woodland, the abundant wildlife, including deer and wild boar, becomes evident.
Adventurous hikers can challenge themselves with hills such as the Signal d’Écouves and the Mont des Avaloirs, both exceeding 400 meters in elevation.
11. Château de Carrouges
A memorable drive through scenic moorland and forest will lead you to the enchanting Château de Carrouges, recognized as a national monument of France.
This castle is remarkable for its fusion of imposing fortress architecture and more refined later stylistic elements.
Children will likely find the Château de Carrouges appealing, as it features numerous classic castle attributes such as a moat, a robust gatehouse, and towers equipped with machicolations, allowing defenders to drop harmful substances on invaders.
Guided tours are provided throughout the day, and non-French speakers are offered printed guides.
12. Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei
Located just ten minutes from Alençon within the Normandie-Maine Regional Park, this picturesque village is nestled in a hilly valley along the River Sarthe.
Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei is recognized as one of France’s “most beautiful villages.” The rustic stone cottages, stables, and barns are all constructed from the same material and often adorned with wisteria or ivy.
The quaint bridge crossing the Sarthe provides an ideal starting point for exploration, leading to the historic center where one can find an 11th-century church.
Visitors can admire the vibrant frescoes from the 12th and 14th centuries, which are unusually colorful due to being concealed under plaster in the 1600s and uncovered in the 19th century.
13. Les Jardins de la Mansonière
This enchanting garden, developed over thirty years, encircles one of Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei’s stone cottages and provides ample motivation to linger in the village.
Remarkably, each segment of this garden serves a purpose and has its unique character.
In merely a few strides, visitors can transition from a Gothic garden to a “green carpet” area, a rose garden, and an aromatic perfume garden.
To complete a serene couple of hours, guests can enjoy a warm beverage at the garden’s tea room.
14. Chapelle du Petit Saint-Céneri
This picturesque scene on the village’s periphery deserves individual recognition.
The 15th-century Gothic chapel is situated in a clearing, representing what was once the heart of the settlement.
The picturesque surroundings provide an excellent reason to journey to this small triangular building nestled within the woodlands.
Inside the chapel, a shrine is dedicated to Saint-Céneri, surrounded by various humorous superstitions.
Women seeking marriage are encouraged to bring a needle to pin to the statue’s robes.
Moreover, for those wishing to conceive (and untroubled by embarrassment), they are advised to locate a large flagstone on the chapel floor where the saint is said to have slept and lie down upon it.
15. Food and Drink
The apple reigns supreme in the Orne Department and serves as the primary ingredient in a variety of delectable beverages.
Most of these beverages are alcoholic, with cider being the most well-known, brewed in this region for over 2,000 years.
Norman cider features a light effervescence and varies from sweet, low-alcohol types to robust, dry varieties at 4.5% alcohol by volume or higher.
In addition, Calvados, an apple brandy, is produced in the area and is commonly mixed with pressed apple juice to create Pommeau.
However, it is not solely apples that define the culinary landscape of Orne, as another regional specialty cherished worldwide is Camembert cheese, produced exclusively in Normandy.