Summary
Situated on two elevations in the Deux-Sèvres Department of western France, the town of Niort possesses a pragmatic reputation rooted in its financial services. Nevertheless, upon closer examination, Niort and the adjacent Marais Poitevin region can enchant visitors with their charm.
Dominating Niort’s historical district is a medieval fortress from the era of Eleanor of Aquitaine. Additionally, a journey along the Sèvre Niortais reveals more castles from a period when Poitou enjoyed independence from France. Niort can also serve as a base for exploring the Venise Verte, a picturesque landscape of wetlands interspersed with canals.
Let us examine the top experiences in Niort:
1. Donjon de Niort
Following his marriage to Eleanor of Aquitaine, English King Henry II sought to strengthen his new territories by constructing magnificent castles, such as this one.
What currently stands was once the center of an extensive fortified area, featuring gardens, residences, and parade grounds.
The present structure includes two 12th-century keeps that rise 28 meters high, interconnected by a smaller slate-roofed building from the 1400s.
The keeps exhibit nearly indistinguishable architectural styles, characterized by cylindrical corner towers and minimal wall openings.
For a modest fee, visitors can explore the tight spiral staircases leading to the roofs and inspect the archaeological displays within.
2. Musée Bernard d’Agesci
A native of Niort, the 18th-century painter Bernard d’Agesci was on the verge of joining the Académie in Paris when it was dissolved during the Revolution.
Consequently, he returned to Niort, contributing significantly to the town’s cultural landscape by founding the first library and establishing a museum and botanical garden.
This attraction, inaugurated in 2006, bears his name and essentially comprises three museums within one, featuring wings dedicated to fine arts, natural history, and galleries highlighting the educational history set in a former girls’ school.
Among the noteworthy exhibits are Parthenay ceramics, antique string instruments, regional goldsmithing, fossils, and teaching items from the early 1900s.
3. Old Niort
It can be enjoyable to navigate Niort’s historic streets that meander up the hills, occasionally encountering remarkable old buildings worthy of a photograph.
You can obtain an itinerary detailing all the “hôtels particuliers” and timber-framed houses in the city, such as the striking Maison de la Vierge, noted for its sculpture of the Virgin and Child adorning one corner.
Along Rue du Pont, you will find l’Hôtel de Chaumont, constructed in the 1400s and recognized as the birthplace of Françoise d’Aubigné, the second wife of Louis XIV.
4. Le Pilori
This visually striking trapezoidal hall located in the heart of Old Niort was once the site of the medieval pillory, hence its name.
Le Pilori was constructed in the 1500s, displaying a Renaissance design, while the belfry above was erected in the subsequent century.
Until the Revolution, it served as Niort’s town hall, showcasing impressive architectural features such as semi-circular towers at the corners, decorative machicolations, and mullioned windows.
It has functioned as a bookstore in the past and now serves as a venue for temporary art exhibitions.
5. Château du Coudray-Salbart
Located less than 10 kilometers along the D743 from the center of Niort, the ruins of a formidable castle can be found.
The Château du Coudray-Salbart was constructed in the 1200s by the Lords of Parthenay, allies of the English King John, to secure the crossing of the Sèvre Niortaise River.
However, following the annexation of Poitou to the French Crown a few decades later, the castle’s strategic importance waned, leading to its gradual deterioration.
This state of decay benefits visitors today, as it allows the exploration of 13th-century architecture that remains untouched: ribbed vaults, massive fireplaces, latrines, arrow loops, and, intriguingly, a secret passageway concealed within the walls.
6. Marais Poitevin
Niort is positioned at the eastern edge of a captivating marshland area, full of historical and natural significance.
Visitors will find themselves closest to the wetter sections of the marshes, known as Marais Mouillés, often referred to as Venise Verte (Green Venice). This picturesque scenery includes canals, wooden footbridges, and unspoiled forests of ash, alder, and poplar, along with charming stone cottages.
The pace in Venise Verte is notably slower, allowing visitors to float along the waterways by boat or traverse the woodlands on less frequented paths.
7. Maison du Marais Poitevin
In the neighboring village of Coulon, visitors can immerse themselves in the Marais Poitevin’s ecosystem, industries, and traditions.
This historic house features five exhibition rooms, including a unique “Maraiscope,” which presents animated projections detailing the history of the Marais.
Visitors can understand how locals historically earned their livelihoods through activities like eel fishing in the marshes and navigating the channels using specially designed flat-bottomed boats.
This venue serves as an excellent resource to gather knowledge about the environment and lifestyle in the Marais before venturing out to explore independently.
8. La Coulée Verte
Occupying 15 hectares in the heart of the city, the Coulée Verte (Green Corridor) comprises quays, banks, river islands, and bridges along the Sèvre Niortaise.
With its rich vegetation, this area provides a lovely setting for riverside walks, crossing bridges with evocative names such as Le Pont des Arts or Eaux Vives (White Waters). Niort’s principal landmarks, including the Donjon and the churches of Notre-Dame and Saint André, create a picturesque backdrop for photographs, alongside the quaint stone riverfront homes adjacent to Les Vieux Ponts.
9. Coulon
Commonly referred to as the capital of Venise Verte, Coulon is also recognized among the “plus beaux villages de France.” If you wish to experience a ride in one of the region’s distinctive flat-bottomed boats, known locally as “batais,” this is the ideal location.
Visitors can request a guide/boatman to provide insight into the marshlands or opt to navigate their own boat freely.
While the village lacks major attractions, its charming canals and picturesque old houses adorned with colorfully painted shutters are sure to captivate.
10. Les Halles de Niort
Indoor markets are frequently recommended in French cities, and Niort’s market is one of the most vibrant.
The exquisite metal and glass hall constructed in 1869 stands as a community cornerstone, situated next to the Donjon and hosting over 100 vendors.
Visitors will be amazed by the quality and assortment of meats, charcuterie, cheeses, fish, fruits, honey, fresh bread, vegetables, and pastries on offer.
For those with vacation homes, this market may become a primary shopping location, while day-trippers could acquire delightful local produce to create the perfect picnic in Venise Verte.
The optimal time to visit is early on Saturday for market day when numerous stalls also pop up outdoors.
11. Église Notre-Dame
Niort’s oldest church commenced construction in the 1400s, built upon the site of Christian structures dating back to the early Middle Ages.
The Church of Notre-Dame was completed expeditiously by 1534, exemplifying Flamboyant Gothic architecture consistently both internally and externally.
Restorations in the 1800s respected the Gothic style, highlighted by the magnificent carved oak pulpit from 1877, depicting scenes from the New Testament.
Externally, visitors should observe the pinnacles on the spire, lending the 75-meter structure a distinctive serrated appearance.
12. Les Oiseaux du Marais Poitevin
Encompassing an eight-hectare area of the Marais Poitevin, this sanctuary serves as a haven for birds, allowing visitors to come within meters of 70 different species that inhabit the wetlands.
These oystercatchers, herons, ducks, and stilts thrive in semi-captivity within open enclosures covered by nets.
The entry fee includes a boat ride along the park’s canals, where a multilingual guide provides insights into the natural and human history of the marshes.
Following this, visitors can explore the petting zoo to interact with local domesticated animals, such as donkeys, mules, and goats.
13. Château de Cherveux
Situated just minutes away is a remarkably romantic château encircled by a moat, with architecture dating from the 1100s to the 1400s.
This property has changed hands among various noble families and was once owned by the Scottish clansman Robert Cunningham.
The 18th-century proprietors, the Count and Countess of Narbonne-Pelet, were executed during the Revolution, leading to the state seizing and selling the estate.
Though the building currently serves as a private residence, the owner offers informative tours by prior arrangement, showcasing the towers, stone bridge, grounds, and highlighting the intricate stone carvings.
14. Maillezais Cathedral
Rising majestically above the marshland are the striking ruins of this abbey-turned-cathedral, which was abandoned in the 1600s.
The site is notable for its crumbling architecture, but there is more to explore.
When the Benedictine monks established a presence, this locale was merely an island amidst a waterlogged expanse. In the 13th century, they excavated canals to convert the area into arable land, leaving a lasting influence on the Marais.
While some stone was removed during the 1700s, the cathedral was designated a heritage site in 1840, preserving significant portions of the cathedral, refectory, cellars, kitchen, dormitory, and fortifications.
15. Local Delicacies
A unique plant to Niort and the Marais Poitevin is l’angélique (garden angelica). Cultivated since 1602 for its medicinal properties, it was historically thought to ward off plagues. While once every part of the plant was consumed, today, the stems and roots are commonly used to flavor candies, liqueurs, or crafted into jams.
The liqueurs, jams, and candies serve as exceptional gifts to bring home; however, garden angelica is also incorporated into local savory dishes, such as pan-fried trout or omelets.
Moreover, if you consult the map, you will observe that Niort is merely an hour’s journey north of Cognac, making a day trip to Martell or Hennessy a worthwhile consideration.
