Top 15 Attractions and Activities in Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni, France

As an historical penal colony, Saint-Laurent du Maroni stands out as a town established by and for convicts. Located next to the Maroni River in western French Guiana, remnants of the convict camps remain visible even 70 years after their closure.

For those familiar with the narrative presented in Papillon, witnessing the locations detailed by the author provides a compelling experience. The expansive, muddy waters of the Maroni River form a natural boundary with Suriname and promise numerous ecotourism opportunities, including excursions through primitive jungles, visits to Indigenous Amerindian communities, and wildlife observation of rare species typically seen only in documentaries.

Let’s explore the top attractions in Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni:

1. Camp de la Transportation

The 1930s and 1940s brought to light the realities of life in French penal colonies through Papillon, an autobiography penned by former inmate Henri Charrière.

Regardless of your familiarity with the book, participating in the guided tour of the facility where new inmates were processed is essential.

The preserved prison buildings offer an unsettling glimpse into the life of a convict, showcasing solitary confinement cells and discussing various methods of torture.

Additionally, Charrière’s original holding cell remains intact, featuring the engraving of the word “papillon” alongside other prisoner graffiti.

2. Petit Paris

Upon arriving in Saint-Laurent du Maroni, visit the local tourist office for a brochure that outlines a suggested route through the town center.

Affectionately dubbed Petit Paris, these streets emerged as the prison camp expanded after 1887, drawing more government officials and bureaucrats to contribute to a more sophisticated ambiance.

Informational signs in both French and English narrate the histories of notable structures such as the Governor’s Residence (currently housing the sub-prefecture), the Maritime Court, the town hall and former bank, the Church of Saint-Laurent, and the Joffre Barracks (now the headquarters of the Gendarmerie).

3. Centre d’Interprétation de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

The former kitchen and mess hall at the Camp de Transportation has been repurposed into an exhibition space.

This venue features displays that illustrate the daily experiences of approximately 70,000 convicts who passed through these grounds between 1852 and 1938. Artifacts, photographs, and sketches recount the arduous journey from the port of Saint-Martin-de-Ré in Western France across the Atlantic to Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni.

Furthermore, the old dormitories host exhibitions depicting the town’s construction and the challenges it may encounter in the future.

4. Camp de la Rélégation

Located approximately 15 kilometers upstream along the Maroni River is another former prison camp, open for tours on weekends.

In penal terminology, “relegation” referred to individuals who had committed repeated offenses prior to their transfer to Guiana and were often deprived of any hope of freedom. After years of enforced labor, they were sent to this colony, now within the village of Saint-Jean.

Approximately 18,000 individuals enjoyed limited rights, such as the ability to engage in work contracts, provided they did not attempt to escape the colony.

Subsequent to its original purpose, the buildings accommodated immigrants from Eastern Europe following the war and have more recently functioned as barracks.

A contemporary sculpture by Bertrand Piéchaud commemorates the convicts in front of the camp.

5. Marché

Every Wednesday and Saturday from 07:00 to 14:00, a vibrant market takes place at Place Flore Lithaw. To experience the essence of Saint-Laurent, this market is unparalleled.

Engage with locals in their daily routines while enjoying snippets of conversations in Guianese Créole and the lively exchanges from friendly vendors. The market showcases an array of tropical fruits and vegetables such as cassava, bananas, papaya, mango, yam, and rambutans, some familiar and others so exotic that inquiries may be necessary.

The enticing scents of the market are accompanied by the fragrances of local cuisine, including Chinese, Bushinengue (Creole), and Hmong (South Asian) dishes prepared at the market’s eateries.

6. Banks of the Maroni River

Only a short distance from the tourist office lies the riverside, an ideal location for a leisurely picnic or simply to reflect by the expansive dark green Maroni River, shaded by swaying palms.

The breeze near the water offers a refreshing respite, complemented by a kiosk serving fresh tropical fruit juices, ice creams, or crêpes.

As you explore, you may come across what initially appears to be an island, but is actually a shipwreck now heavily overgrown with tropical foliage.

This is the Edith Cavell, a British Merchant Navy vessel that ran aground in 1925 and was abandoned following unsuccessful towing attempts.

7. Île aux Lépreux

While numerous adventure opportunities exist in Laurent-du-Maroni, strenuous expeditions are not a prerequisite for experiencing tranquility.

The river island Île aux Lépreux remains uninhabited, as its name suggests it was once a quarantine area.

This past is a memory now; the island provides a semi-wilderness environment ideal for peaceful strolls.

Typical Amazonian huts, known as carbets, can be found throughout the forest; these open shelters allow guests to cool off during the night.

These carbets feature benches, providing spaces to enjoy refreshments or picnics.

8. Forêt de Saint-Jean

Another appealing adventure near Saint-Laurent is the jungle trek leading to a historical prison camp in Saint-Jean, now reclaimed by nature.

This camp, established in the early 20th century, was connected to Saint-Laurent by rail.

Seventy years post-closure, navigating the terrain may require an experienced guide to point out remnants of the compound.

Whether traversing on foot or by bicycle, the trail’s allure lies in the lush tropical flora, as you strive through palm fronds and leap over the substantial roots of towering trees.

9. La Charbonnière

This area of Saint-Laurent possesses a more recent historical significance.

During the mid-1980s, this neighborhood was constructed to accommodate members of the Maroon ethnic group, descendants of runaway slaves who fled the Surinamese Interior War, which continued until 1992. La Charbonnière is positioned by the river, where locals frequently arrive by canoe to supply shops and the market with fresh produce.

Despite its somewhat neglected appearance, the village features charming chalet-style huts adorned with wooden shingles.

10. Rhumerie Saint-Maurice

The Rhumerie Saint-Maurice, the last remaining rum distillery in French Guiana, welcomes visitors during the morning hours.

Modernized approximately five years ago at a cost of €8 million, it produces the widely popular La Belle Cabresse, a distinguished white rum with an alcohol content of 50-55%.

The shop offers aged rum selections of three or seven years, and tasting opportunities are available.

Purchasing directly at the distillery is advantageous, as prices for bottles are significantly lower compared to other towns throughout Guiana, including Cayenne and Kourou.

11. Maroni Canoe Trips

For those seeking a genuine adventure in the Amazon, Saint-Laurent offers ample opportunities.

Operators such as Tropic-Cata and Cosma provide journeys on the Maroni River in traditional dugout canoes, accommodating entire families.

Choose from a variety of experiences, ranging from a two-hour excursion to an overnight adventure spanning up to two days, featuring jungle treks, outdoor cooking, and visits to remote Indigenous communities.

12. River Cruises

If paddling down the river seems overly taxing, several cruise companies operate from the pontoon adjacent to the tourist office.

Similar experiences are available, including exploration of the Maroni River, its creeks and tributaries, wildlife observation, and visits to Indigenous villages nestled within the jungle.

However, the added benefit lies in enjoying all of this from the comfort of a modern yacht equipped with cozy accommodations and a deck for scenic views.

13. Les Chutes Voltaire

Among the most stunning waterfalls in French Guiana, Les Chutes Voltaire are located south of Saint-Laurent du Maroni.

Although reaching the falls requires a bit of determination, expedition companies in town offer 4×4 transport. Even after a lengthy journey through the jungle, a 90-minute walk remains before arriving at the destination.

The effort is undoubtedly rewarded by the breathtaking views of a river cascading down 35 meters along a series of falls.

Bathing is permitted, and the smooth rocks at the lowest cascades can be used as a natural waterslide into the pool below.

As always in French Guiana, the surrounding forest is thriving with wildlife, some of which should be approached with caution (including caimans, anacondas, and tarantulas!).

14. Suriname

Another country lies along the left bank of the Maroni, accessible by ferry.

Albina, a small town, serves as a gateway to Galibi, a resort situated at the mouth of the Maroni, particularly popular from February to August.

This remarkable location is protected as a nature reserve, featuring pristine beaches, untouched forests, and the largest Amerindian village in the Caribbean.

Notably, Galibi’s beaches serve as nesting sites for several species of sea turtles.

The unforgettable sight of turtles emerging from the ocean and navigating the beach is a natural spectacle not to be missed.

15. Guianese Food

The culinary landscape in Saint-Laurent features a Creole influence, enriched by Chinese and South Asian elements.

A signature dish is “smoked” chicken, which consists of richly marinated chicken legs cooked on a closed grill, allowing them to absorb the fragrance of sugarcane smoke.

Cod can be prepared similarly and is also deep-fried in balls accompanied by a spicy dip.

Additionally, the versatile cassava, which is plentiful in the Saint-Laurent region, was traditionally a staple for lower-income individuals, but is now often used as a healthier alternative to potatoes. It can be stuffed with chicken or fish and fried or ground into flour for use in cakes, bread, and cookies.