Summary
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Lübeck is an essential destination in Schleswig-Holstein. As the capital of the Hanseatic League, this city served as a pivotal focal point within a network of ports surrounding the Baltic Sea. For centuries, Lübeck has been recognized as the “City of the Seven Spires,” and even following a catastrophic bombing raid in 1942, those towers continue to grace the skyline of the Old Town, situated on its island in the River Trave.
Streets abound with gabled merchants’ houses, guildhalls, and warehouses, all indicators of the trade that conferred status and power during the Middle Ages. The town hall embodies that prosperity, while the five principal churches remain adorned with Medieval and Renaissance art.
Let us delve into the noteworthy attractions in Lübeck:
1. Altstadt
Germany’s largest historic center spans 100 hectares of historical streets watched over by those seven spires.
A quintessential Lübeck street scene features rows of Renaissance gabled houses interspersed with passageways.
The city’s layout rewards those with an adventurous spirit.
One can divert from the main streets, exploring alleys that lead to hidden courtyards, or unexpectedly find oneself on a familiar thoroughfare.
The courtyards are predominantly located in the well-preserved Kober area in the north along Engeslwisch, Glockengießerstraße, and Engelsgrube, as well as in the south around the cathedral.
For those interested in shopping, staying along the straight and narrow at Breite Straße and Königstraße provides access to well-known brands alongside unique boutiques and confectioners.
2. Holstentor
More than merely a structure, Holstentor guards the western entrance to the Old Town, acting as a landmark renowned throughout Germany.
Initiated in 1464, the gate exhibits Lübeck’s signature North German Brick Gothic architecture.
It features two rounded towers flanking the passageway, along with smaller ornamental towers atop the pediment.
Notably, subsidence has rendered the south tower slightly lower than its sibling.
Terracotta friezes adorn the gate, while the city side includes a facade with three tiers of small ogival arched windows.
Within lies a minor museum showcasing Lübeck’s significance as a Hanseatic and Free Imperial City, complete with period measuring instruments, ship models, armor, and weaponry.
3. St Mary’s Church
Similar to the Holstentor, the importance of St Mary’s Church cannot be overstated.
Constructed in the 13th and 14th centuries, its Brick Gothic design has served as a model for numerous churches across the Baltic during the Middle Ages.
Following the design of Germany’s medieval Hall Churches, the building notably lacks a transept.
The nave impresses with its height, featuring brick vaults that stand 38.5 meters high, making them the tallest in the world.
These vaults are additionally supported externally by flying buttresses.
The two towers soar to an imposing 125 meters and were the final features completed in the 1350s.
Within the south tower’s chapel are the remnants of bells that fell during an air raid in 1942. Remarkably, many artworks survived the war, including the 14th-century bronze baptismal font, the 15th-century Darsaw Madonna—reassembled from numerous fragments—and the winged altarpiece from 1495 by Christian Swarte.
4. Town Hall
As one of Germany’s foremost medieval town halls and another visually striking landmark in Lübeck, the town hall was first documented in 1225. Originally a Romanesque structure, traces of its Romanesque blind arch remain in the shield wall.
However, the initial town hall was destroyed by fire in the mid-13th century, and the pointed arcades found on Markt date back to this period.
Renaissance expansions were made on the north side in the 1570s, and the light sandstone utilized during this phase presents a striking contrast to the dark brick of earlier constructions.
Guided tours are available three times a day, Monday through Friday, showcasing various halls, including the Audienzsaal.
This former courtroom-turned-audience hall features doorways of varying heights: Innocent defendants could depart with their heads held high while the guilty had to stoop.
5. Hospital of the Holy Spirit
Located in Koberg square within the Altstadt’s northern Jakobi Quarter, the Hospital of the Holy Spirit ranks among the oldest social institutions in the world.
Established in 1286 and later secularized following the Reformation, this hospital reflects the Medieval social conscience of Lübeck, providing care for the poor, elderly, and sick residents, requiring them to maintain a near-monastic lifestyle.
Residents received food, shelter, and a warm bath eight times annually, continuing operations until the 1960s.
Today, one can appreciate the architecture that has persevered for over 700 years.
Notable features include 14th-century frescoes in the porch and nave of the church, alongside a 16th-century altar.
During Christmas, this dignified setting hosts an international arts and crafts market.
6. European Hansemuseum
The capital of the Hanseatic League serves as the natural location for a museum dedicated to this international alliance of market towns and merchant guilds.
The Hansemuseum chronicles the inception, flourishing, and decline of the Hanseatic League spanning over five centuries.
Thorough presentations illustrate trade networks and reconstruct port scenes from cities as distant as London, Bergen, Bruges, and Hansa Novgorod in Russia.
For those intrigued by the organizational dynamics of this medieval entity, the museum is filled with historical documents that detail the oaths taken by its members, along with innovative contracts and agreements that sustained the Hanseatic League for an extended period.
The museum also features a collection of gold and silver coins discovered in Lübeck.
7. Lübeck Cathedral
Constructed by Henry the Lion after Lübeck achieved the status of an episcopal “see” in the 12th century, Lübeck Cathedral is among the oldest monuments in the city.
The structure suffered considerable damage in 1942 and remained unreconstituted until 1973. Diverging from Medieval conventions, the cathedral is not the tallest church in the city, a result of tensions between Lübeck’s bishopric and the city’s influential merchants who were patrons of St Mary’s.
It is essential to enter the cathedral to witness the Late Gothic and Baroque artistry that was fortunate to survive unscathed.
The rood screen carvings and the 17-meter triumphal cross are attributed to Bernt Notke from the 15th century, while the Flemish sculptor Thomas Quellinus crafted a series of artworks for the funeral chapels located on the south aisle.
8. Lübeck Museum of Theatre Puppets
Housed within an exquisite cluster of five medieval brick buildings, the Theatre Puppet Museum showcases three centuries worth of puppets and puppeteering artifacts amassed from Europe, Africa, and Asia.
This private collection was curated by Fritz Fey, hailing from a lineage of puppeteers, reflecting one of the unifying themes of this art form, which represents the society in which it is produced.
Alongside the puppets, visitors will encounter small stages, posters, and barrel organs, learning about the cultural nuances of each region, as the puppets embody Indian folklore, Chinese sociocultural norms, and African tribal ceremonies.
For those eager to experience a puppet show, there’s a theater adjacent to the museum.
9. Willy-Brandt-Haus
A Nobel Prize laureate and one of Germany’s most cherished statesmen, former Chancellor Willy Brandt was born in Lübeck in 1913. The museum opened in 2007, coinciding with what would have been his 94th birthday, housed in a carefully restored Burgher house.
From his youth, Brandt led an extraordinary life, as recounted in the exhibition utilizing newsreels, interview transcripts, and documents such as Brandt’s school leaving certificate.
Visitors will discover his resistance efforts, exile to Norway, and role as a journalist during the Nuremberg Trials.
He served as Berlin’s mayor during the construction of the wall, and the museum features a letter he penned to John F. Kennedy during that period.
The largest exhibit space highlights Brandt’s endeavors to bridge Germany’s North-South divide, advocate for human rights, and promote amiable relations with the GDR.
10. St Peter’s Church
The Romanesque St Peter’s Church was first noted in 1170 but remained in ruins for the latter half of the 20th century and was only restored in 1987. Currently, the church serves as an exhibition and event space, rather than hosting services.
For those visiting Lübeck during Christmas, the arts and crafts market is worth experiencing.
At other times, the main attraction lies in the church’s observation platform, which at 50 meters offers an unparalleled panorama of the city.
On clear days, one can see all the way to the Baltic Sea.
Outdoors, keep an eye out for the Danziger Glocke bell, cast in 1647.
11. Burgtor
Although perhaps overshadowed by the more renowned Holstentor on the former western wall, Burgtor, Lübeck’s remaining gate, also merits attention.
Adjacent to the Hansemuseum, this gate secures the northern approach to the Altstadt and was constructed in the Late Gothic style in 1444. The Baroque copper dome atop the main tower originates from 1685. The east-side lawn provides a view of a rare segment of the city’s fortifications: a circular tower and curtain wall with arrow loops.
Upon crossing the Burgtorbrücke (bridge), you’ll encounter two lions guarding the entrance, crafted by the 20th-century sculptor Fritz Behn.
These serve as a partner piece to the lions at Holstentor, designed by Daniel Rauch in the 19th century.
12. Günter Grass Haus
The distinguished 20th-century author Günter Grass resided in Lübeck for much of his later life and passed away in the city in 2015. To commemorate his legacy, a museum was inaugurated in 2002 as a forum for literature and visual arts. While Grass is primarily recognized for his literary contributions, he also produced paintings, sculptures, and graphic art.
The museum houses over 1,300 visual works that offer a comprehensive understanding of Grass’s ideas, messages, and creative processes.
For devoted readers of Grass, his visual representations provide a fresh outlook on recurring themes such as National Socialism and post-war Germany, as well as settings including the Baltic Sea.
13. Schiffergesellschaft (Seafarer’s Guildhall)
Lübeck’s seafarer’s guild dates back to the early 15th century.
In 1535, it acquired and remodeled a property opposite Jakobikirche, which served as the guild’s headquarters until its dissolution in the 19th century.
Currently, the guildhall functions as a traditional tavern that has preserved much of its historic decor.
Hanging from the wooden beams of the ceiling are historic model ships, and the benches are still intricately carved with the insignia of the guild’s member companies.
Even after the Reformation, the guild maintained a robust religious ethos, as evidenced by nine frescoes from 1624 depicting biblical passages that adorn the wooden paneling.
14. An der Obertrave
The southwestern curve of the Old Town’s island endured minimal damage in 1942 and is rich with Medieval and Renaissance architecture.
A leisurely stroll along An der Obertrave, a 720-meter promenade adjacent to the River Trave, provides the best means to appreciate this.
The path is adorned with beautiful listed houses featuring crow-stepped and rounded gables.
It may be difficult to resist navigating into the seven courtyards accessed via narrow passageways directly from the street.
Summer offers an ideal experience in this area, as café terraces align the promenade, allowing for views of the river and the verdant bank across from a comfortable bench.
15. Salzspeicher
Upon passing through the Holstentor, visitors are greeted by a row of six historic warehouses along the Obertrave.
The oldest structure dates back to 1579, while the most recent was built in 1745. Salt brought to the city from Lüneburg to the south was stored here for export to Scandinavia for the herring trade.
Previously, wooden homes belonging to herring merchants once stood adjacent to the warehouses along the banks.
Fans of Weimar cinema will be delighted to discover that these gabled structures feature in F. W. Murnau’s Nosferatu, serving as the vampire’s residence in Wisborg.
