Summary
In the fertile farmland of the Leskovian Valley, the southern city of Leskovac garners national recognition every October for its “Roštiljijada”. This event can be best described as an extensive barbecue, permeating the air with the scent of charcoal smoke and grilled meats throughout the city’s central boulevard. Meat enthusiasts from all corners of the country gather to indulge in kebabs, Serbian-style burgers, and a variety of delectable char-grilled meats.
Leskovac offers much more, such as the ruins of Justiniana Prima, an entire city commissioned by Byzantine Emperor Justinian I in the 6th century, along with natural scenery like the picturesque and historic Hisar hill.
Let us delve into the most notable attractions in Leskovac:
1. Justiniana Prima
Located near the village of Prekopčelica, just west of Leskovac, the ruins of a city established by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I in the 6th century are found here.
Justiniana Prima was intended to serve as the prominent seat of an archbishopric that governed the entire central Balkans.
However, it existed for only a century before being invaded by the Avars in 615 while they traversed the Danube.
The city has been excavated over the last 150 years, yielding many fascinating discoveries: visitors can see baths, a sewage system, fortifications, squares paved with hewn stone, and a basilica adorned with mosaics and capitals featuring Justinian’s monogram.
2. Leskovac Grill Festival
At the conclusion of August and the commencement of September, tens of thousands of individuals flock to Leskovac for the Roštiljijada, a festival centered around grilled meats that envelops the city center.
During this period, the main street, Bulevar Oslobodjenja, is lined with countless temporary grills where sausages, suckling pig, and various cuts of pork, lamb, and beef are barbecued, alongside pljeskavica patties—buns filled with a seasoned mix of pork, beef, and lamb.
The festival also features numerous entertainment options, including grilling competitions, concerts, folk dance groups, and unique events such as attempts to cook the world’s largest pljeskavica.
3. National Museum
The National Museum is situated in a hall on Stojana Ljubica and oversees additional buildings and sites within the region.
With a collection exceeding 33,000 items, the museum encompasses a diverse range of archaeology, ethnography, and art related to Leskovac and the Jablanica District.
In addition, the city hall hosts an exhibition featuring regional costumes and traditional crafts.
The main hall displays artefacts from Justiniana Prima and the 3,400-year-old settlement at Hisar, which will be discussed shortly.
4. Odžaklija
This church, located in the heart of Leskovac, presents a unique case: it was constructed in 1803, during the period of Ottoman rule.
At that time, the city’s Christian population was prohibited from rebuilding the medieval church previously located on this site, prompting them to design one that resembles a house.
Odžaklija features a rectangular layout with white stone arches and is likely the only church globally to include a chimney.
Although the church was abandoned in the 20th century and its roof collapsed in 1963, it underwent a complete restoration in 1992.
5. Šop-Đokić House
Leskovac’s tourist office is situated within this stunning early-19th-century residence, arguably the finest in the city.
Exhibiting a Balkan architectural style, it was once owned by the wealthy Šop-Đokić family.
Two centuries later, this same family is attempting to reclaim the property, which is currently under state protection.
The most distinctive feature of the house is its façade, where a wooden-framed gallery extends above the porch.
This is covered by pronounced eaves, a hallmark of traditional architecture in southern Serbia.
Be sure to admire the main hall, which contains a remarkable carved wooden ceiling, one of the few remaining examples of its kind.
6. Pašina Česma
When residents of Leskovac seek tranquility and fresh air, they often head to this scenic area located 10 kilometers from the city.
During summer, a bus transports visitors to Pašina Česma from the city center, but it is also easily accessible by bicycle.
Pašina Česma (Pasha’s Fountain) spans 86 hectares of meadows alongside oak and pine woods, where individuals engage in football, tennis, biking, leisurely walks, and even hunting.
The park features picnic facilities accommodating 700 people, highlighting its popularity among visitors.
A newly opened luxury hotel within the leisure complex includes a modern restaurant.
7. Hisar
A natural barrier located south of Leskovac, Hisar rises to 341 meters.
Visitors can easily walk from the center of the city and navigate the winding trail through coniferous forests to the summit.
Benches are situated along the trail, providing a chance to gaze down at Leskovac through the foliage.
Upon reaching the top, breathtaking panoramas await, along with an archaeological site to explore.
This hill has been inhabited for thousands of years, from Neolithic times to the early Middle Ages, leaving behind the fascinating remnants of walls, structures, and an early church.
8. Kukavica
Adventurous spirits can embark on an expedition through this formidable massif, just a few kilometers southeast of Leskovac.
This mountain range serves as a favored destination for the residents of Leskovac, promising wilderness, thrilling experiences, fresh air, and perfect solitude.
The tallest peak, Vlaina, at 1442 meters, can be reached via a 28-kilometer trail starting in Leskovac.
The entire massif is enveloped in dense mixed forests of oak, beech, and pine.
The trails teem with wild herbs, and keen gatherers often set out on excursions specifically to collect rosemary and sage.
Additionally, the northern slope of Kukavica is home to the Vučjanka River, which meanders through a canyon 300 meters deep and two kilometers in length.
9. Sijarinska Banja
Situated close to Justiniana Prima, this health resort is nestled amid low peaks blanketed with beech and oak forests reaching heights of 1,000 meters.
The Romans were the first to appreciate the therapeutic qualities of these waters, and the spa was revitalized during the Ottoman period in the 1600s when a communal pool and spa complex was established.
A total of 18 springs emerge from the ground at Sijarinska Banja, with temperatures ranging from 32 to 72 °C. During the colder months, steam rises from the water, and in summer, the facility is bustling with visitors.
Many visitors come to relax and unwind, and to witness the geyser that shoots hot water over eight meters into the air.
10. Cathedral Church
Located in the center of Leskovac, the Orthodox cathedral stands adjacent to the Odžaklija church and began construction in the 1920s.
The church was consecrated in 1931, an event attended by Alexander I of Yugoslavia.
Designed in the Neo-Byzantine style, those familiar with the region’s monuments may notice its resemblance to the UNESCO-listed Gračanica Monastery in Kosovo, a deliberate inspiration that showcases the Serbian-Byzantine architectural style through its slender windows and domes perched on lanterns.
11. Memorial House of Kosta Stamenković
Also under the management of the National Museum in Leskovac is the modest abode of revolutionary, communist, and labor rights advocate, Kosta Stamenković.
Regarded as a national hero in certain circles, he was actively involved in the labor movement, becoming increasingly invested after losing his left arm in a mill accident in 1926. By the 1930s, Stamenković had risen to a prominent political figure.
His life was ultimately cut short during World War II while fighting alongside the Partisans against the Chetniks, who, at that time, were in collaboration with the Axis powers.
This small worker’s cottage unfolds domestic life in the first half of the 20th century.
Artifacts belonging to Kosta and his daughter Lepša remain in situ, complemented by memorabilia from the labor movement up to 1942.
12. Summer Leskovac
This seasonal event occurs around mid-summer as a two-week homage to the city’s traditional culture.
During this period, Bulevar Oslobodjenja is closed to vehicular traffic, allowing street performers and musicians to entertain those enjoying evening strolls along this main thoroughfare.
Parades, both religious and secular, are organized, while the main hall at the Šop-Đokić House provides a picturesque setting for concerts and dance performances.
13. Vlasina Lake
Serbia’s largest artificial lake promises a memorable day out.
This vast expanse of water lies at a high altitude, on a plateau 1,211 meters above sea level.
It was created in the early 1950s when an embankment dam inundated a peat bog at the junction of the Vlasina and Vrla Rivers.
The shoreline features pristine landscapes where wild horses roam through birch and conifer forests. The lake’s water has a crystalline quality, and with summer temperatures reaching into the low 20s, it’s a delightful spot for swimming.
Among the lake’s unique traits are its floating islands, clumps of peat adorned with vegetation, pushed along the surface by the wind.
14. Visit a Kafana
Kafanas represent a cherished institution in Serbian and Balkan culture.
These establishments not only allow patrons to explore local cuisine but also introduce them to regional traditions and customs.
While typically visited for lunch, given the six-course meal involved, it is more of a weekend pursuit: a meze, warm starter, soup, main course, dessert, and coffee.
This does not even account for the rakija (strong Balkan brandy) or the engaging performances by folk artists at these venues.
15. Food and Drink
As you might expect, grilled meats take center stage in Leskovac: Kebabs, chitterlings, pljeskavica (Serbian burgers), and bacon-wrapped chicken are just a few of the culinary delights featured at the Grill Festival.
Additionally, red bell peppers are cultivated throughout the Leskovac region.
These peppers are the primary component of the city’s most renowned dish: Ajvar, a paste made from roasted red peppers, garlic, eggplant, sunflower oil, and chili.
This is a homemade delicacy, typically prepared in October or November during the pepper harvest.
Families traditionally gather for this practice, producing numerous jars of ajvar to sustain them through the winter.
Lastly, one cannot overlook rakija, Serbia’s national drink, a brandy made from quince, plum, apple, and apricot.