Summary of Highlights
Draped across two hills by the River Danube, the royal city of Esztergom marks the historic location where St. Stephen, the first King of Hungary, was crowned at the onset of the 11th century.
The city serves as the seat of the Archdiocese of Esztergom-Budapest, and in accordance with its esteemed status, Esztergom’s Neoclassical basilica stands as both the largest church and the tallest edifice within the country.
Esztergom Castle presents an exciting combination of medieval and Renaissance architectural styles, much of which had remained buried for centuries until archaeological investigations commenced in the 20th century.
From the castle’s Ottoman roundels, one can observe Slovakia, situated directly across the Danube, while Budapest lies a picturesque 50-kilometer drive through the Duna-Ipoly National Park.
Let us explore the most notable attractions in Esztergom:
1. Esztergom Basilica
The principal church of Hungary’s Catholic community is a breathtaking Neoclassical structure that incorporates elements of Ancient Egyptian design in its expansive crypt.
Esztergom Basilica is not merely the largest church in Hungary; it also holds the distinction of being the tallest building of any type in the nation, featuring an impressive dome that reaches a height of 118 meters.
Additionally noteworthy in the chancel is the altarpiece painted by the Italian Girolamo Michelangelo Grigoletti, measuring 13.5 by 6.6 meters, making it the largest painting on a single canvas in the world.
The construction of this monumental structure began in 1822 and reached completion in 1869, situated on land of national importance to Hungary.
The nation’s first cathedral was inaugurated here at the start of the 11th century by King Stephen I, who is also believed to have been crowned at this location around the year 1000. Adjoining the Basilica is the 16th-century Bakócz Chapel, crafted from red marble and regarded as a pinnacle of Hungarian Renaissance artistry.
2. Castle Museum
Esztergom Castle was constructed in the early 1070s by Géza I of Hungary on the remnants of a Roman Castrum.
The existing remnants feature bastions, roundels, and defensive walls, strategically located at the cliffs overlooking the Danube.
The castle exhibits a blend of architectural styles ranging from Romanesque to Gothic, Renaissance, and Ottoman.
Much of the structure was destroyed and buried during the Turkish Wars, with archaeological digs being conducted continuously since the 1930s.
Within a network of alleyways, passageways, arches, and gates, visitors can access the Castle Museum, which chronicles the history of the edifice and Esztergom.
The palace chapel is particularly noteworthy, adorned with frescoes dating from the 1100s to the 1300s, and one of the palace’s rooms showcases a captivating cycle of Hungarian Renaissance paintings that have recently undergone restoration.
3. Víziváros (Watertown)
Located on the right bank of the Danube beneath the castle walls, Víziváros is an ecclesiastical district established in the 13th century by Archbishop Matthias Rátót.
This area underwent significant transformation during the Ottoman period, when Turkish baths and mosques were constructed.
On Berényi Zsigmond Utca, the Öziçeli Hacci Ibrahim Mosque represents the oldest Ottoman-era mosque still in existence along the banks of the Danube.
In subsequent years, elegant Baroque and Neoclassical mansions emerged.
Among these, the Primate’s Palace accommodates the Museum of Christian Art, detailed below.
This palace is a notable feature of the Erzsét Park, where an ancient wall fragment still bears a stone with an Arabic inscription celebrating Suleiman the Magnificent’s capture of the city in 1543. Along the Danube, one can enjoy an unobstructed view of the castle’s bastions, walls, and roundels from their rocky perch.
4. Museum of Christian Art
Situated on the upper level of the Primate’s Palace in Víziváros, the Museum of Christian Art was established in the 19th century by Archbishop János Simor and is filled with liturgical paintings, sculptures, and decorative arts spanning from the 1200s to the 1800s.
The museum boasts an impressive collection of Hungarian, Austrian, and German Gothic paintings from the 15th and 16th centuries, with the Calvary Altarpiece by Master Thomas of Coloswar being one of its most renowned pieces.
Additionally, visitors can peruse Dutch, Italian Renaissance artworks, as well as later Baroque Hungarian, Austrian, and German paintings.
The established collection also features tapestries dating back to the 1400s, ceramic art, ivory, goldsmith creations, clocks, tabernacles, stained glass, and medieval oriental carpets.
5. Széchényi Square
Esztergom’s main square once served as the heart of the Medieval marketplace and is flanked by Baroque, Rococo, and Neoclassical structures.
The square encompasses nearly 10,000 square meters, and around half of the surrounding monuments hold legal protection as historic sites.
Following Esztergom’s liberation in 1683, Széchényi Square became the first area to be repopulated, with its buildings being occupied by the city’s wealthiest merchants.
The Town Hall, located on the south side, is particularly noteworthy; it was previously the residence of János Bottyán, a prominent figure in Hungary’s struggle against the Ottomans and later for independence from the Habsburgs in the early 18th century.
Since 1723, this building has served as the Town Hall, making it the oldest in Hungary.
In the center of the square, one can find the Holy Trinity statue, carved from white limestone by György Kiss in 1900.
6. Cathedral Library
Also referred to as Biblioteca, the Cathedral Library is located at the southern end of Víziváros.
This institution is the oldest and most extensive public library in Hungary, having been founded in 1853 and housing over 170,000 volumes.
The architectural design is striking, featuring early Eclectic influences alongside a statue of St. Jerome perched above its cornice.
Among its numerous valuable books and manuscripts, notable items include the Jordánszky-Kódex, a Hungarian translation of the Bible from 1516-19, the Filipecz Kódex from 1470, and the 11th-century Tractatus.
The Cathedral Library is accessible all day on Wednesdays as well as Tuesday and Thursday mornings.
7. Szent István Tér (St Stephen’s Square)
This grand square situated atop Castle Hill extends eastward from the basilica and is surrounded by magnificent historical buildings.
The properties surrounding the square were historically owned by clergy and include the Old Seminary and Auxiliary Episcopal Palace, positioned across from the basilica on the eastern side.
To the north of the basilica, in the northwest corner of the square, there is a sculpture of St. Stephen located at the summit of one of the castle’s roundels, overlooking the Danube.
This statue commemorates the coronation of Stephen I, which is believed to have occurred nearby at the beginning of the 11th century; it stands at a height of 12 meters and was sculpted by Miklós Melocco.
8. Duna Múzeum (Danube Museum)
Housed in a Baroque former administrative building constructed in 1730, the Duna Múzeum serves as an engaging educational experience centered around water.
The museum underwent a comprehensive restoration over three years in the 2000s and has since received numerous accolades, establishing its reputation through recognition by the European Museum Forum.
The exhibitions feature dynamic models, multimedia presentations, and interactive games that convey information about various aspects of water and the River Danube.
Topics include the physical and chemical properties of water, the water cycle, floods and flood protection, and the history of water supply, sanitation, and Hungarian cartography.
9. Balassa Bálint Museum
Located in Víziváros, the Balassa Bálint Museum is housed in a Baroque mansion that served as Esztergom’s first county hall after the town was liberated from Ottoman control.
This museum functions as a regional institution that operates several attractions, including the residence of poet Babits Mihály, to be discussed later.
The main wing in Víziváros features rotating exhibitions detailing the history of Esztergom and its surrounding region, encompassing archaeology, art, ethnography, 19th and 20th-century photography, and numismatic displays.
Notable items include fragments from the portal of the 11th-century St. Adalbert Cathedral and stonework recovered from the excavated Bakócz Chapel.
10. Szenttamás
Occupying its namesake hill, the eastern section of Esztergom, known as “St. Thomas,” operated as a separate village until 1895.
The primary attraction in Szenttamás is the hilltop calvary, predominantly Baroque in design, while featuring stations and sculptures from various periods.
Adjacent is a Neoclassical chapel, collectively constructed to commemorate those who perished defending Eger.
At the hill’s base lie the ruins of the Fürdő Szálló, a hotel that was part of a bathing complex, where Hungarian commander Lajos Kossuth resided in 1848 while rallying support for the War of Independence.
Further down the hill, one may also find Esztergom’s synagogue and the Baroque Chapel of St. Stephen.
11. Dark Gate
Constructed in 1824, contemporaneously with the commencement of Esztergom’s basilica, the Dark Gate functions as a tunnel linking the seminary with the canonical residences.
The passage measures 90 meters in length, exhibiting Neoclassical elements with a barrel vault design.
The structure underwent a thorough renovation in 2006, and contrary to its name, it is now well illuminated.
The Dark Gate leads directly to the archdiocese’s wine cellar, enabling a connection from the Seminary to the center of Esztergom.
During the 1956 Revolution, a bus heading to the Seminary, which was then a Russian military base, was attacked by a T-34 tank, resulting in 14 fatalities. A plaque commemorating this event is located at the tunnel entrance.
12. Babits Mihály Emlékház
One of Hungary’s most notable cultural figures, Babits Mihály, relocated to Esztergom in 1924. He utilized the proceeds from a translation of Dante to acquire this home on the eastern side of the city, making successive extensions until his death in 1943. The interior was adorned by Einzinger Ferenc, a contemporary of Mihály.
On the property’s southern side, a glass veranda serves as the setting where Mihály composed many of his acclaimed poems.
In his study, visitors will find his typewriter and death mask, alongside a wall featuring the autographs of several prominent figures of the mid-20th century.
Noteworthy names include poets Dezső Kosztolányi and Lőrinc Szabó, novelist Zsigmond Móricz, and pioneering Modernist painter Ödön Márffy.
13. Duna-Ipoly National Park
North and east of Esztergom lies the pristine natural environment of Duna-Ipoly National Park, arguably the most biodiverse region in Hungary.
The park covers over 60,000 hectares on both sides of the Danube.
Unique plant species, such as fragrant leek and lenten rose, can only be found in this protected area.
For those looking to engage with this natural wonder, the Eco-Tourism Centre at Esztergom-Kertváros is an excellent starting point, located merely ten kilometers from the heart of Esztergom.
The Pilis Hills, en route to Budapest, feature limestone formations containing over 330 caves.
For adventurous individuals, the Benedek Elek Caving Club offers organized tours.
14. Prédikálószék
Situated above the apex of a beautiful bend in the Danube, Prédikálószék (Pulpit Rock) rises to a height of 639 meters within the Dunazug Range, part of the Duna-Ipoly National Park.
This mountain peak is located just 25 kilometers from the center of Esztergom, and the access road follows the river’s right bank.
A 12-meter wooden observation tower was constructed at the summit in 2016, offering stunning views over the U-shaped meander of the Danube and the Börzsöny Mountains in the background.
Visitors may also approach the cliff’s edge for a more dramatic photograph or enjoy a picnic at the tables positioned below the observation tower.
15. Rám-Szakadék
Adjacent to Prédikálószék lies a kilometer-long canyon of volcanic origin.
This deep crevice in the landscape stretches from Dobogókő deep within the national park to Dömös close to the right bank of the Danube.
In certain sections, Rám-Szakadék reaches depths of 35 meters, where visitors can navigate ledges equipped with handrails, and the waterfalls are accessible via seemingly rickety ladders.
Due to the processes of erosion and shifting soils, the canyon’s formation alters annually. As its catchment area is minimal, flash floods can occur, making it advisable to visit following prolonged dry spells during the summer months.
