Summary
- Vesunna Gallo-Roman Museum
- Tour de Vésone
- Cathédrale Saint-Front
- Rue Limogeanne
- Tour Mataguerre
- Saint-Front Quarter
- Jardin des Arènes
- Voie Verte des Berges de l’Isle
- Voie Bleue des Berges de l’Isle
- Cité District
- Musée d’Art et d’Archéologie du Périgord
- Château Barrière
- Musée Militaire du Périgord
- Days Out
- Cuisine
Situated on the right bank of the Isle River, Périgueux is a charming city boasting two historic centers: The Cité district offers a cultured quarter characterized by 19th-century boulevards, adorned with remnants from its ancient Roman inhabitants.
The highlight of this area is the Vesunna Museum, where the ground level of a Roman villa is showcased within a contemporary glass structure. Additionally, the Renaissance and medieval Saint-Front quarter encircles the iconic domed cathedral, featuring narrow streets and alleys. The renowned Dordogne region serves as a stunning backdrop, providing opportunities for river excursions and day trips to castles or fascinating cave networks.
Let us delve into the premier attractions in Périgueux:
1. Vesunna Gallo-Roman Museum
In 1959, during the construction of apartment buildings, workers uncovered the remnants of a magnificent Roman domus.
The preservation of the site is remarkable, and in 2003, a glass building was erected by the esteemed architect Jean Nouvel to cover the site.
Visitors can walk along raised pathways on the ground floor of the domus, overlooking painted plasterwork and mosaics, while gaining insights from informational panels and LCD screens.
Surrounding display cases exhibit artifacts sourced from local Roman sites, including amphorae and plates unearthed at this location.
2. Tour de Vésone
Located on the museum grounds are the ruins of a Roman temple dedicated to the goddess Vesunna, dating back to the early 2nd century.
What remains is a circular tower nearly 25 meters tall, featuring a nine-meter opening on its side.
At first glance, the structure may appear unremarkable, however, it is significant for its fusion of Celtic architectural elements with traditional Roman temple design.
The ruins are also rich in local folklore, with legends suggesting that the tower’s large breach was created by Périgueux’s patron Saint Front expelling demons from the structure.
3. Cathédrale Saint-Front
Featuring a Greek cross floor plan and Romanesque-Byzantine architecture, the 12th-century Saint-Front Cathedral is unparalleled in France, inspired by St Mark’s Basilica in Venice.
This striking edifice boasts grand proportions, with its five symmetrical domes and bell tower renowned throughout the nation.
The cathedral narrowly escaped destruction during the French Wars of Religion in the 16th century, undergoing a restoration in the 1800s by Paul Abadie, the same architect behind Notre-Dame in Paris.
Visiting during an organ performance or choral concert is particularly recommended due to the extraordinary acoustics.
4. Rue Limogeanne
Situated within the heart of medieval Périgueux’s pedestrian zone, Rue Limogeanne is a long ravine-like street that you will encounter while shopping.
Take your time to admire the beautiful stone-built Renaissance architecture that surrounds you on both sides.
Maison Lapeyre at number one and Maison Estignard at number five are exquisite examples.
A notable detail can be found in the stonework adjacent to the doorway at Maison Courtois at number seven, where the initials “AC” are carved.
This was created by Antoine Courtois, known for his partridge pâté, which earned him considerable acclaim throughout Europe in the 1700s.
5. Tour Mataguerre
The Tour Mataguerre along Rue de la Bride was once part of a formidable defensive structure that included 27 towers and 12 gates surrounding the medieval town.
This structure, dating from the 1200s, underwent renovations later to acquire its circular form.
For a substantial period, until 1831, the tower functioned as a gunpowder magazine, and today visitors can explore the interior, which features a small exhibit of medieval weaponry.
Ascend to the roof for a picturesque view of the town and cathedral, supported by informational signage detailing the landmarks you observe.
6. Saint-Front Quarter
Périgueux’s medieval district, located to the north and west of the cathedral, is primarily pedestrian-friendly.
A simple pair of shoes and a curious eye are all you require for a delightful journey through history.
The town has invested significantly in the restoration of its remarkable Renaissance architecture, with something captivating to observe on nearly every street.
The 16th-century Hôtel de Mérédiieu d’Ambois on Rue de la Nation is privately owned but deserves to be viewed for its ornamented windows and sculpted porch.
Place de la Clautre, situated in front of the cathedral, hosts a vibrant market on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
7. Jardin des Arènes
If you were unaware, the elliptical shape of this charming garden provides a strong hint about its former purpose.
This garden occupies the site where Périgueux’s ancient Roman amphitheater once stood.
Amid the spruces, chestnut trees, fountains, and lawns, one can find remnants of the original structure, such as scattered pillars, walls, and arches, while much of the stone was repurposed for the construction of medieval Périgueux.
These evocative ruins harmonize beautifully with the garden, complementing the adjacent Vesunna Gallo-Roman Museum.
8. Voie Verte des Berges de l’Isle
A 15-kilometer greenway, frequented by both locals and visitors, traverses Périgueux from east to west.
The path remains adjacent to the banks of the River Isle, offering restorative nature and breathtaking views of landmarks such as the Saint-Front Cathedral.
Travelers can choose their preferred method of exploration—renting a bike within the town for a two-wheeled experience or strolling along the parallel trail on foot.
This route connects to an extensive network of trails designed for discovering the region without the necessity of a vehicle.
9. Voie Bleue des Berges de l’Isle
A canoe journey along the serene waters of the Isle offers another perspective of Périgueux’s landscape.
The “Blueway” spans 24 kilometers of tranquil rivers, from Trelissac in the east to Marsac in the west.
This experience is designed for ease, featuring 12 designated launch points and four canoe stations equipped with information, restrooms, drinking water, and essential amenities for families of adventurers.
Canoeing clubs in Périgueux, Trelissac, and Marsac also offer paddle board rentals for those seeking a modern experience!
10. Cité District
The Vesunna Museum, Vésone tower, and amphitheater are situated in a neighborhood referred to as the Cité, named after the Vésone Roman Citadel.
This Roman section of the town boasts a few additional remnants from antiquity, including the 2,000-year-old gate, Porte Normande on Rue Turenne, along with the crumbling stone remnants of the citadel’s ancient defenses.
These ruins are interspersed among majestic boulevards that were established during the reign of Napoleon III in the mid-1800s.
Boulevard de Vésone is one such thoroughfare, lined with elegant stone townhouses featuring wrought iron balconies and mansard roofs.
11. Musée d’Art et d’Archéologie du Périgord
Housed in a splendidly converted Augustinian convent, this museum allows visitors to explore the ancient history and prehistory of Périgord and other regions globally.
The collection is diverse, featuring ethnographic artifacts from Oceania and Africa alongside exquisite medieval art, such as an enamel statue of the Virgin Mary from the 1200s and stained glass windows salvaged from a local 14th-century church.
Additionally, visitors can discover a Roman lapidary collection and Neanderthal fossils unearthed in caves near the renowned Lascaux site.
12. Château Barrière
Located in a small park on Rue Turenne are the remarkable remnants of a medieval castle established atop the Gallo-Roman wall of the Vésone Citadel.
On examining the western side of this structure, one can easily identify the larger stones with ancient origins, while the entirety of this dilapidated building is magnificent.
The castle was completed in the 1100s and updated over time, but it was demolished by the Huguenots during the French Wars of Religion in 1575. Features from the late medieval period, such as mullioned windows, an ornate gothic portal, and a renaissance staircase, remain in excellent condition despite centuries of exposure to the elements.
13. Musée Militaire du Périgord
Périgueux’s Military Museum, alongside the two other institutions mentioned, has received the esteemed “Museum of France” designation.
This exhibit examines over 1,000 years of warfare the region has experienced, addressing international conflicts involving the citizens of Périgord.
With approximately 12,000 weapons (including cannons, muskets, and daggers), armor, uniforms, flags, and everyday equipment displayed, visitors gain a deeper understanding of Périgord’s historical contributions to significant conflicts.
The highlight of the collection is a large painting of the 1872 Battle of Solferino by military artist Jean-Adolphe Beaucé, alongside a vast array of intriguing memorabilia for military enthusiasts to explore.
14. Days Out
Périgueux is filled with attractions, yet if you seek a different scenery, there are exceptional sites easily accessible by car from the town.
The Château de Puyguilhem embodies the quintessential French Renaissance château, constructed in the 1500s with architecture rivaling that of the Loire Valley.
For an underground adventure, the Grotte de Tourtoirac can be reached within approximately half an hour via the D5: This cave system, recently explored in the last couple of decades, was discovered by cave divers in 1995. It’s noteworthy that this attraction features modern amenities, including escalators, providing accessibility for individuals with mobility challenges.
15. Cuisine
The black truffle is harvested across Périgord during the autumn and winter months, often commanding astonishing prices.
You will come to appreciate the exceptional flavors of local delicacies featuring this prized ingredient.
Périgueux pâté, which includes foie gras and black truffle, has been a local specialty since at least the 1400s, while Périgueux sauce, made from roux, red wine, and chopped truffles, pairs beautifully with dishes such as omelettes, roasted duck, or quail.
Périgord walnuts hold an AOC designation, with significant production occurring in the orchards surrounding the city, particularly in late summer when they are in season.