Summary
Located midway between Lyon and Avignon, Valence is situated in a plain within the Middle Rhône Valley, bordering the pre-Alps. The city is occasionally referred to as “La Porte du Midi de la France” (The gateway to the south of France), and one can observe Mediterranean influences evident in Valence’s architecture and urban landscapes. A weekend in Valence offers ample activities, especially if you venture to the nearby town of Romans, located on the Isère River just before it merges with the Rhône.
Discover the history and culture of this region at the Musée de Valence or explore the picturesque banks of the Rhône and Isère through cycling excursions and drives past vineyards, woodlands, and charming villages.
Let’s explore the pinnacle attractions in Valence:
1. Musée de Valence
This exceptional museum begins with prehistory and chronicles life in the Middle Rhône Valley over a span of 4,000 years.
The collection boasts over 20,000 artifacts, featuring intriguing items from nearly every phase of Valence’s historical development.
Included are altars utilized for bull sacrifices from Roman times and a room adorned with mosaics.
In the natural history section, you’ll find a unique taxidermy specimen of a two-headed goat kid.
The fine arts galleries display works by prominent artists such as Camille Corot, Hyacinthe Rigaud, and Gerard van Honthorst from the Dutch Golden Age.
2. Maison des Têtes
An extraordinarily embellished edifice located on Grande Rue, Maison des Têtes was completed in 1532 and derives its name from the numerous sculpted heads adorning its façade.
These intricate figures represent elements such as winds, fortune, time, law, theology, and medicine.
Above the passageway leading to the inner courtyard, busts of Roman emperors can be observed.
Take a moment to appreciate the intricate details, then enter for a small exhibition on Valence’s history.
3. Parc Jouvet
Situated on a slope adjacent to the river, Parc Jouvet opened in 1905 and is named to honor the benefactor who enabled the city to acquire this land.
At the summit of the park lies a platform where visitors can lean against the balustrade and admire breathtaking views of the cliffs on the opposite bank of the Rhône.
On pleasant summer days, one may retreat to the park for a picnic among the 700 trees, some of which, like the bald cypress and Indian lilac, are not commonly found in this region.
4. Peynet Bandstand
Positioned on the Champ de Mars next to the park is a quaint structure that has significantly influenced French popular culture in the 20th century.
This 19th-century bandstand inspired the illustrator Raymond Peynet to create his iconic Lovers characters in 1942, which rapidly gained popularity and even featured on French stamps in 1982. Currently, these character-based dolls have become highly sought after, with several Peynet museums located across France, including two in Japan. The bandstand, constructed in 1890, embodies the art nouveau style, showcasing beautiful wrought iron arches and railings.
5. Centre du Patrimoine Arménien
Located within the former law faculty of Valence University, this institute preserves and promotes the rich culture of Armenia.
This area became home to a significant Armenian population during the early 20th century, explaining its presence in Valence.
The museum features extensive multimedia displays, including testimonials from individuals affected by the 1915-17 genocide.
Additionally, there are fascinating historical connections between France and Armenia, such as King Leo V, a 14th-century Armenian monarch who lost his throne in the Middle East and passed away in France, finding his final resting place alongside French royalty at Saint-Denis.
6. Valence Cathedral
The construction of what is now the oldest monument in Valence commenced in the 1000s.
However, like numerous religious structures in France, the Cathedral of Saint-Apollinaire suffered partial destruction during the Wars of Religion by the Huguenots in the 1500s.
Subsequently, it was meticulously restored to its original Romanesque design, still revealing many features indicative of its ancient origins.
Notably, it boasts an unusual polygonal apse and ambulatory, resembling the renowned Romanesque churches of Auvergne to the west.
As you explore, you may observe that many of the stones bear Roman inscriptions, having been repurposed from ancient edifices around the town.
7. Place des Clercs
In a square like this, nestled within the maze of ancient, ravine-like streets of Vieux Valence, visitors can feel the approach to southern France.
The buildings surrounding the square are adorned with pastel shades and terracotta roofs, while outdoor dining areas are shaded by plane trees.
Being adjacent to the cathedral, this location is one of the oldest in Valence, originally established in the 400s, where public acts of justice were historically conducted.
The most notable event occurred when the smuggler and folk hero Louis Mandrin was executed here in 1755. Today, major public gatherings are limited to the vibrant food market held on Saturdays!
8. Parc Jean-Perdrix
The impetus for visiting Valence’s eastern periphery is to admire an impressive piece of award-winning urban art.
The Château d’Eau comprises two enormous helical structures, measuring 52 and 57 meters, and was inaugurated in 1969. This landmark is frequently cited among France’s premier public sculptures and is preserved as a piece of 20th-century heritage.
The surrounding park serves as the largest in the city, providing an ideal setting for a leisurely stroll, complete with cedar groves and a pond adorned with water lilies and ducks.
9. La Maison Mauresque
This building exemplifies the 19th-century fascination with oriental aesthetics.
La Maison Mauresque (Moorish House) was commissioned by industrialist Charles Ferlin in the 1850s.
While only the façade is accessible, it is certainly worth a visit on Rue Gaston Rey.
The architect employed molded cement to create a remarkable trompe l’œil effect on the exterior walls, significantly reducing the effort compared to traditional stone carving techniques.
This illustrates a significant example of how historical design principles were reassessed in the 19th century, employing modern construction methods.
10. International Shoe Museum
A brief journey to Romans-sur-Isère offers the opportunity to visit this museum dedicated to footwear, situated in a town renowned for its leather and shoemaking industries.
The museum is housed in a charming venue on the grounds of the Convent of the Visitation, surrounded by beautiful gardens, and the exhibition proves to be more captivating than one might anticipate.
Within the former nuns’ cells is a substantial collection of footwear dating back to 2,000 BC, comprising several thousand pieces.
Among these, visitors can observe a musketeers boot and a medieval crakow shoe characterized by its elongated, pointed toes.
The collection also features items from around the world, including a boot worn by a Chinese woman with bound feet.
11. Collégiale Saint-Barnard
This church, recognized as a French Historic Monument since 1840, was founded in 838 by its namesake Saint Barnard along the right bank of the Isère in Romans.
The present structure showcases significant elements from the 12th century, and like Valence Cathedral, it underwent reconstruction at the start of the 17th century.
Many parts of the nave remain intact, and the Romanesque capitals within represent an outstanding example of medieval artistry.
A visit during the 12th century reveals the Chapelle du Saint Sacrement (Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament), which features 15th-century frescoes and eight tapestries woven in 1555.
12. Local Delicacies
It may seem unconventional, but to truly savor Valence’s culinary offerings, ordering ravioli at a local restaurant is highly recommended.
In this region, these square pasta pockets are filled with a delightful mixture of eggs, parsley, fromage blanc, and Comté cheese.
The Suisse is a distinguished specialty of Valence that has been cherished for over 200 years.
After the passing of Pope Pius VI in this city in 1799, a local baker ingeniously crafted a shortbread figure in the attire of the Vatican’s Swiss Guard.
During the summer months, visitors can also experience the process behind the creation of the local “pogne” brioche, flavored with orange blossom water, at the oldest bakery in Romans/Bourg de Péage.
13. Maisons Troglodytes
The village of Châteauneuf-sur-Isère, situated less than ten kilometers north of Valence, is nestled within wooded hills on the left bank of the Isère.
In the Bel Air quarter at the base of the Colline de Molasse lie approximately 100 residences carved directly from the soft limestone.
These dwellings span multiple historical periods, with the oldest tracing back to antiquity.
Although some reside on private property, the majority are easily accessible from the village’s summit and provide an engaging exploration opportunity.
14. Véloroute Voie Verte Vallée de l’Isère
The V63 cycle route is designed specifically for families, tracing the winding path of the Isère River surrounding Romans.
This route, which is level with the water, allows even young children to navigate effortlessly, with nearly half of its 42 kilometers designated as Voies Vertes (Greenways) reserved for non-motorized traffic.
The path spans the Isère four times, featuring the remarkable 11th-century Pont Vieux bridge in Romans as one of its highlights.
15. Crest
Embarking on the road less traveled leads you through invigorating landscapes of low-lying mountains to the town of Crest, located approximately half an hour from Valence.
Crest is strategically positioned at the entrance of the Drôme department’s pre-Alps, which historically conferred significant importance since ancient times.
A prominent monument commemorating this status is the Tour de Crest, standing at 52 meters, making it one of the tallest medieval keeps in Europe.
This structure represents the remnants of a vast castle that was dismantled by Cardinal Richelieu in the 17th century, when the tower became a symbol of repression as it served as a notorious prison.
