Summary
On the banks of the River Mayenne in northwestern France, Laval is a small city with a rich historical legacy.
The Château de Laval serves as the primary landmark of the city, a historic French monument that stands magnificently above the right bank of the river.
From this vantage point, visitors can explore the Centre-Ville, characterized by its timber-framed houses and elegant mansions, or take a leisurely stroll along the picturesque riverside, which is adorned with a 13th-century bridge and several beautiful monuments that are arranged like an outdoor gallery.
The charm of the Mayenne region is also readily accessible: the lush countryside offers green pastures and hedgerows, the Roman ruins at Jublains are a must-see, and the stunning village of Sainte-Suzanne captivates all who visit.
Let us examine the top attractions in Laval:
1. Château de Laval
The 12th-century castle of Laval, along with its Renaissance wing from the mid-16th century, has been recognized on France’s initial list of historic monuments.
Rising to 34 metres above the Mayenne River, the castle is easily recognizable due to its robust circular tower dating back to the 13th century.
Visitors can enter the château’s museum and courtyard without charge, allowing close examination of the château’s intricately sculpted tufa window frames and gables.
However, to view the medieval lower chapel and tower, one must join a guided tour, which is available several times a day during both winter and summer, with the exception of Mondays.
2. Musée d’Art Naïf
Popularly known as the “Musée d’Art Naïf,” this museum within the château features galleries encompassing a wide array of subjects, from fine art to local archaeological finds.
The museum has been dedicated to acquiring and accepting donations of naif art since the 1960s, as Laval is recognized as the birthplace of Henri Rousseau, the self-taught painter whose work faced criticism during his lifetime but ultimately influenced modern artists such as Pablo Picasso and Wassily Kandinsky.
The museum showcases three paintings by Rousseau along with works by other artists of the movement, including André Bauchant and Camille Bambois.
3. Lactopôle André-Besnier
The Mayenne region serves as a cornerstone of France’s dairy industry, which becomes apparent when traversing the countryside and observing numerous herds of dairy cows grazing in lush pastures.
Consider the Babybel factory in Évron, which produces five million mini Babybel cheeses daily! Lactalis, a significant employer in Laval, has its headquarters hosting a surprisingly engaging and well-curated museum.
The museum provides insights into Lactalis’s founder, André Besnier, and illustrates various dairy processes, from milk to cheese and butter.
It also features vintage churns from around the globe and a collection of historical camembert labels.
4. Jardin de la Perrine
Occupying the right bank of the Mayenne, Laval’s cherished park features serene terraced gardens ascending from the riverside, offering splendid views of the city and château.
Notably, Henri Rousseau’s tomb is located within the park, alongside a monument dedicated to Alain Gerbault, another prominent figure from Laval.
In the 1920s, Gerbault successfully completed a solo circumnavigation of the globe aboard the Firecrest sailboat, which is also on display here.
The park offers a mini-zoo for children, featuring goats and sheep, while avid botanists will appreciate the diverse plant collection, which includes a giant sequoia and a rare Chinese ginkgo tree.
5. Riverside and Boat Trips
At the heart of Laval, the expansive River Mayenne is flanked by high stone embankments that date back to the 19th century.
Strolling along the riverside paths of Quai Albert Goupi and Quai Jehan Fouquet rewards visitors with picturesque views of the city and the historic Pont Vieux, which we will discuss shortly.
Located at Square de Boston is the city’s principal jetty, from which you can embark on river cruises, whether during the day for sightseeing or in the evening for dinner.
If you visit during the Christmas season, the Lumières de Laval illuminates the city with enchanting lights, transforming the river cruise into a truly magical experience.
6. Pont Vieux
This 13th-century bridge stands as an emblem of Laval, constructed precisely at the location where the Roman road from Le Mans to Corseul once crossed the Mayenne River.
Although it may be difficult to believe, this modest bridge previously supported one of the city’s gatehouses and had residences flanking both sides, resulting in a quite narrow crossing during the Middle Ages.
Featuring three arches, the Pont Vieux sustained damage during the liberation of Laval in 1944 when it was partly demolished by German forces.
7. Centre-Ville
The historic center of Laval is adorned with half-timbered houses dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries, along with historical churches and an array of renaissance and neoclassical mansions.
The Tourist Office provides a complimentary guide to the town, and visitors can access audio tracks for a self-guided walking tour of the center.
A must-see square is Place de Trémoille, situated in front of the Château Neuf (the newer, renaissance part of the old château), along with a beautiful 17th-century pavilion that serves as a splendid entryway to the old château.
Adjacent to this pavilion is the Immeuble Maistre Julien Briand, a half-timbered house from the 1600s boasting colorful leaded windows.
8. Laval Cathedral
Composite churches, characterized by diverse and incongruous sections from various periods, can often provide an intriguing exploration experience.
Laval Cathedral exemplifies this, featuring an eclectic mix of architectural styles and an irregular floorplan.
The nave, the oldest section of the cathedral, was constructed in the 11th and 12th centuries and showcases early Gothic vaulting.
Within the nave, six magnificent tapestries from the 1600s depict scenes from the Old Testament book of Judith.
The northern arm of the transept, designed in the Renaissance style, dates from the 1500s and is embellished with exquisite plasterwork on the dome ceiling.
9. Basilique Notre-Dame d’Avesnières
Upon approaching the principal western entrance of this church, visitors are greeted by a facade that, while attractive, does not stand out as extraordinary.
The majority of the western section of the structure originates from the 19th century.
However, the historical significance is evident if one knows where to look, as the sanctuary and transept date back to the 10th and 11th centuries.
Prior to entering, visitors can explore the eastern side to admire the apse and the radiating chapel bays.
Inside, the sanctuary and choir reveal columns in the ambulatory adorned with splendid Romanesque and Gothic carvings of mythical creatures and foliage.
10. Mayenne
Historically, the charming riverside town of Mayenne served as the gateway to Normandy and was the residence of the Dukes of Mayenne from the 1500s until the French Revolution.
This significant political position led to the construction of several townhouses for the gentry in the 1600s and 1700s, which remain exceptionally beautiful today.
The highlight of Mayenne is undoubtedly the fortress-like Château de Mayenne, whose impressive towers and outer walls can be admired from the left bank of the Mayenne.
Inside, the museum showcases remarkable artefacts, including a set of dice crafted from deer antlers during the Middle Ages.
11. Sainte-Suzanne
Designated as one of France’s “most beautiful villages,” Sainte Suzanne is a picturesque hilltop settlement dominated by a medieval château.
The oldest section is the oblong-shaped donjon, constructed in the early 1000s and accessible via a series of metal stairs and walkways.
Equally striking are the village’s ramparts, erected during the Hundred Years’ War in the 1300s and 1400s, which have retained their grandeur.
Nearby, 800 meters away lies the Camp de Beugy, where William the Conqueror’s forces once attempted to besiege the town.
Nearly a thousand years later, visitors can trace the earthworks of the ramparts and appreciate how the site would have appeared using a scale model located in Sainte-Suzanne’s museum.
12. Musée Robert Tatin
If the museum in Laval piqued your interest in naïve art, visit this surreal “art environment” established by Robert Tatin between the 1960s and 1980s.
Tatin drew inspiration from ancient civilizations and cultures globally to craft a variety of unique monuments using colored cement.
You will first encounter his creative endeavors along the L’Allée des Géants (Driveway of the Giants), where he positioned 19 large and distinctive sculptures representing historical figures like Vercingetorix and Joan of Arc, as well as cultural icons such as Rodin, Picasso, Gauguin, and Rousseau.
Afterward, you can tour Tatin’s residence and the galleries he constructed for his works, contemplating whether Tatin was a visionary genius or completely eccentric!
13. Refuge de l’Arche
Translating to “The Ark,” this animal refuge provides a heartfelt experience as it rescues injured, mistreated, and abandoned animals, regardless of whether they are domestic or exotic.
It is reassuring to know that many of the animals at the park are temporary guests who are reintroduced into the wild after regaining their strength and instincts, such as Brutus, a lion saved from captivity and subsequently released in South Africa.
The spacious enclosures span 14 hectares of forest with three walking trails, where visitors can even feed popcorn to some of the Ark’s monkeys and birds.
14. Gallo-Roman Town of Jublains
Currently, Jublains is a quaint village nestled in the pastoral Mayenne countryside; however, 2,000 years ago it served as the regional hub of Noeodunum, founded by the Gaulish Diablintes tribe and later expanded by the Romans.
An intriguing glimpse into ancient Gaulish culture is provided by a monumental stele slab situated in front of the church.
From the Roman era, visitors can explore the Castellum (a small yet impressive fortress), a theater, a significantly intact spa, a sanctuary, and the foundational remnants of several homes.
Numerous fascinating artifacts unearthed in Jublains, such as an Iron Age sword, inscriptions from the theater, mosaics, and votive statuettes can be viewed at the Archaeological Museum of Jublains.
15. Walks and Bike Rides
The region of Pays de Laval features over 700 kilometers of walking trails that wind through verdant farmland and alongside numerous streams and rivers that meander through the landscape.
A comprehensive guide can be acquired at the tourist office; however, the scenic beauty to the east of the city is idyllic, showcasing dairy farms and hedgerows surrounding Bonchamp-lès-Laval.
To the south of Laval, one can enjoy a picnic at the Bois de l’Husserie, a sprawling 250 hectares of beech forest with designated routes for cycling.
Lastly, do not overlook the newly-restored towpath along the Mayenne, which offers 85 kilometers of picturesque greenery and retains its original 18th-century locks.
