Summary
A well-known adage in this eastern French region is “Comtois rends toi! Nenni ma foi!”, which translates to “Comtois, surrender! Not on your life!”. This expression alone encapsulates the tumultuous landscape and historical conflicts that characterized the area until the mid-20th century.
Thus, it is unsurprising that the region is dotted with historical forts and monuments that commemorate acts of valor.
The rural terrain is equally breathtaking, featuring dramatic steephead valleys and an abundance of lakes and waterfalls waiting to be explored.
This area is also the birthplace of notable figures such as Louis Pasteur, Victor Hugo, and Gustave Courbet—luminaries in French culture and science.
Let us embark on a journey to explore the most remarkable attractions in France-Comté:
1. Citadelle de Besançon
Designed by the 17th-century military strategist Vauban, this citadel is perched on Mount Saint-Etienne.
Vauban meticulously considered even the most minor details, such as using brick for the parapets instead of limestone to reduce fatal fragments after an explosion.
The site has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2008, and the ascent from the city below should not be underestimated.
However, once atop the walls, the panoramic views of the Doubs River and the undulating landscape will validate your efforts, allowing you to explore at your leisure, including the 132-meter well, the fortifications, and the gun towers.
Children will particularly enjoy the animal enclosures, which feature kangaroos and lions, along with an informative museum dedicated to the French Resistance.
2. Lion of Belfort
Frédéric Bartholdi, the sculptor renowned for New York’s Statue of Liberty, crafted this grand monument showcasing a lion adjacent to the citadel in Belfort.
The lion measures 11 meters in height and 22 meters in length, composed of red sandstone that contrasts subtly against the gray limestone cliff behind it.
Completed in 1880, the monument commemorates the Siege of Belfort during the Prussian War, where 17,000 men successfully withstood an assault of 40,000 Prussian soldiers for 103 days.
While the sculpture is best appreciated from a distance, a pathway leads from the town for a closer inspection of this impressive work.
3. Fort de Joux
This castle boasts an exceptionally picturesque location.
It safeguards the Cluse de Pontarlier mountain pass atop a slender and lofty rock formation.
A fortification has existed here since the 1000s, yet it was Vauban who significantly transformed the site.
In the late 1600s, he introduced a system of bastions, batteries, and barracks, and excavated the well, which at 147 meters was the deepest in France at the time (listen closely to hear how long a coin takes to make a splash!). The construction quality was so high that the fort was ultimately incorporated into the Maginot Line prior to the Second World War.
Visitors should explore the museum featuring 600 antique weapons, alongside the renowned spiral staircase.
4. Source du Lison
Situated near the village of Nans-sous-Sainte-Anne in the Doubs Department, this enchanting locale will leave a lasting impression.
It is the second-most powerful spring in the Jura, after the Loue, discharging 600 liters per second from a cave at the base of limestone cliffs before cascading through a series of waterfalls and down slopes cloaked in deciduous forest.
Even during periods of low precipitation, the water flow remains consistent, and visitors can ascend the path alongside the falls to explore the cavern.
5. Royal Saltworks at Arc-et-Senans
A visit to this 18th-century former salt factory provides diverse perspectives and insights not only about this region but also about France as a whole during the 1700s and 1800s.
This is largely attributed to the innovative design of the saltworks by architect Claude-Nicolas Ledoux, who, influenced by the Enlightenment, organized the structures using “rational geometry”. Visitors can learn about the significance of salt in Franche-Comté during this era, how it was extracted from local brine, and how the unpopular salt tax was a contributing factor to the French Revolution.
6. Notre Dame du Haut, Besançon
This remarkable pilgrimage chapel, along with 16 other works worldwide by Swiss architect Le Corbusier, is now a UNESCO site and recognized as one of the greatest 20th-century religious buildings.
Initially constructed in 1913, the medieval chapel was demolished during a storm, and its replacement was subsequently damaged by German artillery during World War II.
The new structure, completed in 1955, will surely captivate your senses.
Constructed from recycled stones from the previous chapel and held within a concrete frame, its design may surprise those familiar with Le Corbusier’s work due to its curvilinear forms instead of traditional right angles.
On sunny days, light streams through the irregularly-shaped stained-glass windows embedded deep in the south wall.
7. Dole
Dole is an enchanting location, historically significant as it hosted the Burgundian parliament and served as a center of learning in the 1400s.
It remained part of the Habsburg Empire until it was captured by Louis XIV in the 1660s, after which the parliament and university were relocated to Besançon.
This was perceived as a humiliation at that time, but this transition has effectively preserved Dole’s historic ambiance.
Visitors can admire an array of structures from the 1400s and 1550s on closely packed streets adorned with wells, coats of arms, stone bridges, and palatial buildings featuring arcaded courtyards.
Notably, Louis Pasteur was born in this city in 1822, and a museum is located at his birthplace.
8. Château d’Oricourt
This castle, located in the Haute-Saône department, is classified as a French Historic Monument, constructed in the 1100s and fully accessible to the public.
It stands as the best-preserved example of medieval military architecture in the region.
The site features dual fortification rings with ditches: the outer ring encompasses the manor’s agricultural structures, while the inner ring showcases buildings dating from the 1100s to the 1400s, all protected by two imposing 25-meter-high stone towers.
It’s quite exhilarating to discover the various remaining features, including original bread ovens, cisterns, wells, cellars, and the vast vaulted dining hall.
9. Les Cascades du Hérisson
During the summer, the optimal time to witness this natural marvel in the Jura Lakes is after a substantial rainfall; otherwise, the waterfalls may be somewhat diminished.
Throughout the rest of the year, however, the cascades typically flow powerfully, except in mid-winter when they may become entirely frozen.
The seven waterfalls result from the Hériccson River descending 300 meters in just three kilometers.
A walking trail follows the river’s course, providing lookouts from which you can admire breathtaking views of waterfalls such as Le Grand Saut and L’Éventail, which are 60 and 65 meters high, respectively.
10. Ornans
This picturesque riverside commune, situated in the Loue River Valley, lies in the shadow of the rugged Roche du Mont hill.
Do not miss the delightful view of the riverfront from one of Ornans’ two bridges dating back to the 1600s.
The old houses along the water’s edge, with their sloping roofs, appear to nestle closely together.
The renowned realist painter Gustave Courbet was born here, and his celebrated work, Burial at Ornans, was painted in this town, as indicated by its title! A museum dedicated to Courbet is also located within the town.
Additionally, take time to wander around Ornans, stopping by the Church of Saint-Laurent from the 1500s, showcasing both Gothic and Romanesque architecture, as well as both the old and new town halls.
11. Lods
Equally charming yet smaller is the village of Lods, also located along the River Loue.
This village is officially recognized as one of France’s “plus beaux” villages, and like Ornans, the best view is from the Luve bridge.
From there, you can observe the village’s stone houses nestled against the verdant valley slopes.
Many of these structures were once owned by winegrowers, and you can explore Lods’ viticultural heritage at the small Musé des Vigne et du Vin.
Moreover, an ethnological museum showcases the tools of local trades from previous eras, ranging from winemaking to blacksmithing.
12. Région des Lacs du Jura Français
Located in the heart of the Jura Department, an impressive variety of lakes exists—15 in total—formed by glacial activity.
The scenery is breathtaking, featuring wooded karst escarpments as a backdrop, and the larger lakes, such as the 230-hectare Lake Chalain, provide campsites and recreational activities both on land and in water during the summer months.
To preserve tranquility, motorized boats are prohibited on the lakes as part of various conservation initiatives.
Visitors can enjoy swimming in July and August at the three supervised beaches and consider renting pedal boats to explore the shore.
13. Baume-les-Messieurs
Recognized as one of France’s “plus beaux villages,” Baume-les-Messieurs in the Jura department is nestled within a striking limestone landscape.
The prominent landmark is Baume Abbey, established in the 6th century.
The current architecture is predominantly Gothic, and the stunning Renaissance retable behind the altar offers ample reason to visit.
Nonetheless, many visitors are drawn by the breathtaking scenery, as the village is situated within a cirque valley, enclosed by cliffs that rise 200 meters above the valley floor.
Numerous trails allow for breathtaking views of the village, along with explorations of the 600-meter cave and the opportunity to discover the Cascade des Tufs, an impressive collection of waterfalls.
14. Outdoor Recreation
In winter, while snow covers the landscape, the region lacks significant alpine ski facilities apart from those located at des Rousses and Métabief; however, many locations, particularly in the north and east, offer excellent cross-country skiing opportunities through snow-draped forests and past frozen lakes.
During the summer, the tranquil roads serve as a haven for road cyclists, epitomized by the picturesque rolling hills and hairpin turns surrounding the Ballon d’Alsace in the northern part of the region.
This ascent has been a fixture since the early days of the Tour de France.
15. Try Regional Cuisine
If you plan to self-cater, you can savor some of the region’s finest products without a significant investment of time in food preparation.
This culinary experience largely revolves around charcuterie, such as brési (salted and smoked beef) and Morteau Sausage, traditionally smoked within pyramidal chimneys.
Cheeses are also integral, including Morbier, Mont d’Or, and Comté, which pairs splendidly with fondues and the region’s Vin Jaune.
Additionally, Franche-Comté is known for the production of absinthe, and an Absinthe Trail meanders through the Jura Mountains into Switzerland.
At the Maison de l’Absinthe in Môtiers and the Pontarlier Museum, you can learn everything you need to know about the “Green Fairy,” famously associated with late-19th-century artists and writers.
