Summary
Troyes is a remarkable Renaissance city situated in the southern region of Champagne, known for its streets lined with multicolored half-timbered houses originating from the 1500s.
It is challenging to find a more picturesque historic center throughout France, a rarity that can be attributed to a historical disaster.
Most of these vibrantly painted structures were constructed after a catastrophic fire in 1524 that necessitated nearly the entire city to be rebuilt, resulting in a unique architectural harmony that is difficult to replicate elsewhere.
Visitors can marvel at one of Europe’s most exquisite cathedrals and spend hours exploring historic mansions that provide insight into Troyes’ past, ranging from medieval healthcare systems to traditional craftsmanship.
Let us explore the best things to do in Troyes:
1. Troyes Cathedral
Initiated in the 13th century and finalized over 400 years later, Troyes Cathedral showcases a remarkable aesthetic unity both within and outside, despite its construction across various historical periods.
This entirely Gothic structure is celebrated as one of Europe’s most beautiful churches.
The impressive nave evokes both strength and elegance.
More than 1,500 square meters of stained glass flood the interior with light.
Some of these windows date back to the 1200s.
Among the most significant features are the three grand rose windows, measuring ten meters in diameter, adorned with astonishingly intricate tracery designed by the Renaissance architect Martin Chambiges.
2. Maison de l’Outil et de la Pensée Ouvrière
The Hôtel de Mauroy, located at 7 Rue de la Trinité, is a charming Renaissance mansion dating back to 1550 and is among the most delightful sights in Troyes.
This building, constructed of stone, brick, and timber around a central courtyard, features a stunning half-timbered turret.
While the exterior captivates, the interior reveals a fascinating collection of antique craftsmen’s tools.
With 65 display cases housing 11,000 objects in total, this establishment holds the title of the largest tool museum globally.
Those interested in traditional trades involving leather, wood, metal, and stone will find these artifacts dating back to the 1600s particularly engaging, showcasing the evolution of each craft.
Additionally, there are beautifully crafted masterpieces created by the Compagnons du Devoir, a national guild for artisans.
3. Église de la Madeleine
Troyes’ oldest church, constructed in the 1100s, underwent significant restoration of the nave and choir in the 1500s and 1600s.
While the exterior appears modest, the lavish interior decoration makes this church an essential site during your visit.
The most remarkable feature is the Renaissance stone rood screen in the choir, sculpted between 1508 and 1517. Very few of these survive intact in French churches, as most were removed during the Reformation.
The exquisite stained glass windows, also from the Renaissance, are notable for their clarity, depicting well-known Biblical scenes such as the Garden of Eden and the Passion.
4. Old Troyes
The historic center of Troyes immerses visitors in a past era.
Wandering from store to store can easily occupy your entire day, as the medieval quarter is deceptively expansive.
This area originally comprised two distinct districts: The Cité to the west, surrounding the Cathedral, where nobility and clergy resided, and the Bourg to the east of the Canal du Trévois, designated for merchants and commoners.
Scattered throughout are numerous Troyan timber-framed houses that bring to life the medieval and Renaissance periods.
Rising to four storeys, these charmingly crooked buildings feature triangular gables and display a variety of daub colors.
5. Ruelle des Chats
An exploration of Troyes would be incomplete without a stroll down this medieval alleyway.
In this narrow passage, the overhanging corbelled houses create a shadowy urban gorge, effectively blocking out natural light.
The alley derives its name from the ability of a cat to leap from one building to the other across the street.
This feat is easily achievable, as the facades nearly touch at their apex.
The unique architectural design arises from historical taxation regulations, which were based on the building’s footprint rather than its increased height.
6. Musée d’Art Moderne
It is quite a challenge to find a provincial modern art museum that rivals this one, housed within the former episcopal palace in Troyes.
The museum offers a comprehensive overview of 19th and 20th-century art in France, featuring paintings, sculptures, illustrations, and decorative items.
The 19th-century galleries are home to renowned artworks by artists such as Gauguin, Courbet, and Degas.
However, the museum excels in its collection of early 20th-century fauvism, showcasing works by key figures of the movement, including Derain, Braque, Dufy, and Kees van Dongen.
Additionally, an entire room is dedicated to local artist Maurice Marinot, displaying his exquisite Art Deco glassware.
7. Musée de Vauluisant
Within the splendid Renaissance Hôtel de Vauluisant, visitors can explore two attractions.
This structure is recognizable by its twin circular towers, and upon entering, one gains valuable insights into both Troyes and its surrounding region.
The historical museum showcases magnificent religious paintings, sculptures, and stained glass found in now-defunct churches and monasteries in Troyes.
Visitors can closely examine the stained glass and will be astonished by the exceptional craftsmanship.
The museum also houses historic furniture and decor salvaged from the interiors of once-opulent homes that have since been lost.
The second attraction is the Museum of Hosiery, which reflects Troyes’ status as the hosiery capital of France from the 1700s until the 1960s, displaying both primitive wooden looms and advanced machinery from the industry’s golden age in the 1800s.
8. Hôtel-Dieu-le-Comte
Although the current structure dates back to the 1700s, this former hospital has origins tracing back to the 1100s.
While it now accommodates classrooms and lecture halls for the University of Troyes, a quirky museum awaits to capture your interest inside.
The museum can be accessed from the quayside, leading visitors to the hospital’s former apothecary and laboratory, which retain their appearance from the era of Louis XIV. This area comprises three rooms filled with wooden cabinets reaching the ceiling, stocked with glass bottles, ceramic jars, and painted boxes, though the remedies employed during that time may surprise you! Additionally, artifacts from the medieval hospital, including shrines, tools, and busts of physicians, can be explored.
9. Musée Saint-Loup
The museum takes its name from the 17th-century abbey that it occupies and features collections covering archeology, natural history, and art up to modern times.
The archaeology section, located in the abbey’s beautifully vaulted cellars, showcases Etruscan, Greek, and Egyptian artifacts.
Among the highlights is the 5th-century Treasure of Pouan, discovered in a tomb north of Troyes, consisting of jewelry, weaponry, and intricately crafted ornamental fastenings.
On the upper floors, visitors can admire an impressive collection of French, Flemish, Dutch, and Italian paintings, dating up to the 1800s, featuring masterpieces from 17th-century French artists such as Charles Le Brun, Philippe de Champaigne, and Pierre Mignard, who was born in Troyes.
10. Basilica of St. Urbain
Born in Troyes, the 13th-century Pope Urbain IV commissioned this church, built in 1262 for his patron saint.
The site was historically the location of his father’s cobbler workshop.
The choir and transept were constructed within just two years, from 1262 to 1264; however, the subsequent construction was protracted due to conflicts and funding shortages, culminating in its completion only in 1905. The interior showcases an abundance of historic artwork, particularly in the choir, which features stained glass windows from the 13th century.
Also noteworthy is the Renaissance statue known as the “Vierge aux Raisins,” representing the Virgin with child, gracefully holding a vine laden with grapes.
11. Factory Outlets
For those in search of bargains, Troyes stands out as Europe’s hub for factory outlet shopping, a legacy from its historical textile industry.
Three expansive shopping centers are located just a few kilometers outside the city.
Marques Avenue boasts an impressive 240 brands, with extensive Adidas and Nike outlets that resemble supermarkets in size.
Marques City, the pioneer of outlet shopping in the area, offers athletic wear and fashion brands at discounts of 30% to 50% off retail prices.
Then, there’s McArthurGlen, featuring over 100 stores that offer past-season items at discounts of 30%.
Be sure to leave ample space in your luggage!
12. Coeur de Troyes
At the intersection of Rue Passerat and Rue Hennequin stands a contemporary emblem of Troyes: a monumental stainless steel sculpture in the form of a heart, created by artists Michèle and Thierry Kayo-Houël.
This location serves as a significant meeting point, where the Bourg intersects with the Cité along the canal’s quayside.
For the full experience, visit this monument at night when its pulsing red lights illuminate, responding quicker as you approach, thanks to three internal motion sensors.
13. Hôtel des Chapelaines
A noteworthy Renaissance gem is this exquisite stone mansion on Rue Turenne, characterized by its balustrade beneath the roof pediments and ornamental pilasters framing each window.
This mansion was constructed in the aftermath of the significant fire in 1524 for Nicolas Largentier, a member of a prosperous drapery family.
The Largentier family ascended to nobility upon acquiring the Château de Chapelaine in Vassimont and subsequently adopted its name.
Notable royalty, including Louis XIII in 1629 and Holy Roman Emperor Francis II in 1814, were esteemed guests at this impressive residence.
14. Champagne Route
While the major champagne houses are predominantly based further north in Reims and Épernay, the vineyards extend south to Troyes.
Approximately one-fifth of the vineyards yielding champagne are situated in the Aube department, making it the second-largest producer of this esteemed beverage.
A mere 30-minute journey will lead you to the Cîte des Bar region, traversing a Champagne route of over 200 kilometers through charming stone villages nestled among chalk hills adorned with pinot vines.
Much of the production from smaller, family-run vineyards in this southern region is supplied to larger northern brands.
Consider visiting the award-winning Champagne Rémy Massin et Fils for an enthusiastic tour of their facilities.
15. Cuisine
Andouillette de Troyes is a highly regarded sausage, with strict regulations that charcuteries and butchers must adhere to in order to earn the prestigious 5A label, a recognition that can take years to achieve.
This culinary specialty can be enjoyed at numerous traditional restaurants throughout the region.
Made exclusively from pork chitterlings and stomach, it is commonly served alongside green beans, fries, or mashed potatoes.
Accompany your meal with a soft champagne or cider from Aube.
Moreover, Chaorce, a regional cheese, is renowned across France, crafted from cow’s milk and characterized by its soft texture.
