Summary
A romantic medieval city, Rodez is rich in culture and owes its allure to the vibrant pink sandstone utilized in its architecture.
One of the most impressive sites is the cathedral, characterized by its warlike features that serve both to repel attackers and welcome worshippers.
The city is the birthplace of Pierre Soulages, one of France’s most distinguished contemporary painters, and is home to a newly established museum showcasing his paintings and sculptures.
Equally captivating as the major attractions are the ancient streets, teeming with medieval and Renaissance mansions adorned with intricate stonework that appears as fresh today as it did centuries ago.
Let us delve into the top experiences in Rodez:
1. Rodez Cathedral
Reconstructed entirely in pink sandstone in 1276, Rodez Cathedral exemplifies a remarkable fusion of Gothic elegance and military fortification, renowned for its 87-meter bell tower.
Distinct from nearly every other church globally, the western facade is wholly sealed by an imposing sheer wall of stone, featuring only arrow loops until the rose window looms above the Place d’Armes.
This stern exterior can be attributed to the cathedral’s position directly on Rodez’s western city wall.
Visitors may easily lose track of time exploring the opulent interiors, where the choir stalls and rood screen display extraordinary 15th-century craftsmanship, and the various chapels contain marble tomb sculptures and murals dating back to the 1300s.
2. Musée Fenaille
The Renaissance Hôtel de Jouéry ranks among the oldest and most sophisticated residences in the city, embellished with intricate moldings and pilasters on its facade, featuring a courtyard graced with splendid wooden galleries.
This noble setting serves as a backdrop for a museum that chronicles the history of the Rouergue, extending back to the Neolithic era.
The highlight of the collection is the Dame de Saint-Sernin, a menhir statue uncovered in 1888 in the nearby Saint-Sernin-sur-Rance, estimated to be around 5,000 years old.
The museum also houses mosaics, tomb sculptures, commonplace objects from the later Gaulish Ruteni tribe, Renaissance tapestries commissioned by the Bishops of Rodez, and exquisite furniture from the 16th and 17th centuries.
3. Old Town
The Centre-Ville of Rodez warrants a closer examination due to its ancient street plan and abundance of historic residences.
In the southern area of the old town, around the Place du Bourg, these homes belonged to merchants and nobility.
Conversely, the quarter surrounding the cathedral and episcopal palace to the north was designated as the Cité, reserved for clergy members.
The array of medieval and Renaissance treasures is extensive and will engage inquisitive minds for hours.
To highlight a few must-see locations, the Maison de Benoît is a Renaissance house featuring an older Gothic gallery, and the Maison de Guitard is a 14th-century banking residence recognizable by its robust tower.
Just above the cathedral stands the Hôtel Delauro, a magnificent residence for canons established in the 1500s.
4. Musée Soulages
One of the most prominent individuals to emerge from Rodez in recent years is the artist Pierre Soulages, recognized for his affinity for the color black.
Following an extensive construction process, this modern museum was inaugurated near the cathedral in 2014 at an event attended by President Hollande.
Since the project was proposed over a decade ago, the artist has contributed hundreds of works in two significant donations valued at millions of Euros.
In this captivating atmosphere, visitors can immerse themselves in Soulages’ renowned paintings, sculptures, lithographs, screen prints, and photography.
5. Episcopal Palace
An architectural marvel, Rodez’s Episcopal Palace was one of the pivotal monuments that shaped the medieval city and now serves as the residence for Aveyron’s General Council.
This bishop’s residence originally connected with the cathedral and ramparts but was relocated due to the cathedral’s expansion in the 15th century.
It endured a tumultuous history at its new site, suffering destruction during the French Wars of Religion.
The entire complex underwent restoration in the 19th century, with the oldest remaining structure being the Tour de Corbières, which dates back to 1443. Visitors are encouraged to explore the courtyard for splendid views of the cathedral’s bell tower.
6. Maison d’Armagnac
Deserving of its own mention, the Maison d’Armagnac is among the most photographed landmarks in Rodez, situated on Place de l’Olmet.
This splendid four-story building was constructed between 1525 and 1531 by a prosperous local merchant.
Visitors may take their time admiring the exquisite stonework, featuring corbels, pilasters, and medallions representing the nobility of Rodez.
The house occupies the historical site of the castle for the Counts of Armagnac, thus earning its name.
7. Musée des Beaux-Arts Denys-Puech
Local sculptor Denys Puech was quite active during the French Third Republic (1870-1940), receiving many official commissions from the government.
In 1903, he established this museum, which features an Art Nouveau building that boasts breathtaking views of Rodez from its elevated location.
Alongside Puech’s sculptures, the museum holds permanent collections of paintings by Maurice Bompard and engravings by Eugène Viala, both of whom were artists from Aveyron during the early 20th century.
Additionally, the museum hosts temporary exhibitions showcasing contemporary artists, keeping the experience fresh and engaging.
8. Église Saint-Amans
This notable sandstone church near Place du Bourg has origins tracing back to the 1100s; however, it fell into disrepair in the 1600s.
Consequently, it was closed and rebuilt using the same stones in the Baroque style during the mid-18th century, while the Romanesque interior was largely preserved.
The 5th-century Saint Amans serves as Rodez’s first bishop, with numerous miracles attributed to his name.
Visitors can discover these stories visually through the stunning collection of 16th-century tapestries adorning the church’s chancel.
9. Weekly Markets
Rodez’s two main squares, Place du Bourg and Place de la Cité, come alive on market days.
The markets occur twice a week at the picturesque setting of the Place du Bourg, on Wednesday and Saturday.
During the midweek market, approximately 60 vendors offer regional produce and food items such as pizza and paella prepared fresh on-site.
The Saturday market is notably larger, expanding to both squares with up to 160 stalls.
This vibrant scene showcases an array of goods, including fruits, vegetables, cheese, charcuterie, pastries, and freshly prepared meals, along with live poultry.
10. La Chasse aux Monstres
For younger visitors, medieval architecture may seem monotonous.
However, Rodez’s tourist office has devised an engaging method to involve children.
Throughout the old town, visitors will find centuries-old carvings of peculiar and whimsical creatures, many of which are artistically hidden high up on buildings or nestled in shadowy recesses.
With the guidance of a knowledgeable interpreter and some binoculars, children can embark on a monster hunt around the center, discovering the city’s most eccentric gargoyles while receiving a history lesson unknowingly!
11. Haras National de Rodez
Rodez has hosted a branch of the French National Stud since 1809, situated within the dignified remnants of a Carthusian monastery that dates back to the 16th and 17th centuries and was disbanded during the Revolution.
For equine aficionados, it is recommended to check with the tourist office regarding guided tour schedules.
Visitors will explore the 200-year history of the stud, featuring Selle Français sport horses, Arab thoroughbreds, and regional draft horses in the stables.
At the conclusion, the Haras’ riding school presents a thrilling dressage exhibition.
12. Outdoor Recreation
Visitors can consult the tourist office for details regarding more than 22 walking trails in the Rodez Agglomeration.
The objective of many of these trails is to lead to historically significant sites such as monasteries, churches, historic hamlets, or war memorials.
For an outstanding natural location near the city, consider visiting the Tindoul de la Vayssière, a deep chasm eroded over millions of years to a depth of nearly 70 meters.
This site is particularly popular among climbers, with an information board that details the scientific aspects of this natural phenomenon.
If golfing is of interest, the Golf du Grand Rodez club offers an 18-hole par 70 course with remarkable vistas of the cathedral and the old town.
13. Belcastel and Estaing
Rodez is situated near two of France’s most picturesque villages.
The closest is Belcastel, a short drive west, positioned on the steep left bank of the Aveyron River in the Ségala range. Visitors can park at the café on the opposite bank or stand on the medieval bridge to admire the rustic homes with wooden galleries, all overshadowed by the formidable Châteaux de Belcastel above.
Estaing, set amid the verdant mountains along the River Lot, lies about 30 kilometers away but is worth every minute of the journey.
A slightly larger town than Belcastel, Estaing features narrow lanes lined with Renaissance homes, and its bridge is recognized by UNESCO as a historic landmark on the Camino de Santiago.
14. Aveyron Region
A world of exploration and breathtaking natural beauty awaits throughout the Aveyron department.
Should the historic charm of Rodez awaken an appreciation for medieval architecture, visitors can venture to the Château de Najac, a 13th-century castle that looms over a quaint village from its elevated perch.
Additionally, Conques Abbey stands as a sublime UNESCO site and historical stop on the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route.
Moreover, an unmissable contemporary marvel is the Millau Viaduct, located in Cevennes National Park, which ranks as the tallest bridge in the world, soaring above the Tarn River to a height of 343 meters.
15. Local Food
At the market, one must not miss the opportunity to procure some Roquefort or Bleu Comtal, as these renowned blue cheeses are locally sourced.
For those seeking a taste of authentic regional cuisine, farçous are typical pancakes made with chard, while aligot is a rich purée of melted tome fraîche and potatoes, which compliments grilled local sausages superbly.
Furthermore, observing the preparation of gâteau à la broche may not reveal the extensive effort required for these cakes.
These cakes can take several hours to prepare and are made by spinning batter flavored with rum and orange blossom over a wood fire on a spit until a large, knobby cone is achieved, traditionally enjoyed on special occasions.
