Summary
Reputed as the gateway to Burgundy, Sens is a town that experienced significant prominence during the Middle Ages and Renaissance.
During this historical period, the archbishop exerted considerable influence; future popes received their education in Sens, and Thomas Becket, the Archbishop of Canterbury, experienced his exile here.
These historical narratives are chronicled at the town’s museum, located within the episcopal and synodal palaces, featuring one of the most extensive collections of medieval art in France.
Sens proudly showcases its architecture, whether it is a restored section of the Gallo-Roman walls or a splendid half-timbered house adorned with intricate wood carvings.
During summer evenings, the main square transforms into a spectacle with a brilliant light show projected onto the cathedral.
Let us examine the noteworthy attractions in Sens:
1. Sens Cathedral
The cathedral stands out for various reasons, the foremost of which is its claim to be the earliest Gothic cathedral in France, initiated in 1135. Additionally, it was larger than any other churches constructed during that period.
William of Sens, the architect responsible for the choir’s design, also contributed to the UNESCO-listed choir at Canterbury Cathedral in England.
The Flamboyant Gothic sculpted façade on the north transept dates back to the early 16th century and exhibits remarkable craftsmanship.
One should not miss the interior, particularly the stained glass windows, which date from the 1100s to the 1500s, including a series depicting the narrative of Thomas Becket, the Archbishop of Canterbury who was murdered in 1170.
2. Palais Synodal
Adjacent to the cathedral, the Gothic palace was constructed between 1230 and 1240 under Archbishop Gauthier’s direction.
In the 19th century, it was designated a French Historic Monument and underwent restoration by Viollet-le-Duc, the famed architect renowned for revitalizing medieval sites throughout France.
This building served as the ecclesiastical court, and remnants of messages scratched by prisoners can still be seen in the walls of the former jail cells from medieval times, located on the first floor.
The grand hall on the upper floor hosted synods and features diagonal ribbed vaults illuminated by Gothic windows embellished with delicate rosettes.
Visitors can admire these on a tour at the Musées de Sens.
3. Musées de Sens
Occupying the opulent episcopal palace, the museums comprise a significant collection of medieval art in France.
The galleries feature collections belonging to Sens’ Archaeological Society, the cathedral’s treasury, and various donations received over time.
Those intrigued by history will find a Bronze Age treasure, an entire room filled with Roman stone carvings from the ancient town walls, exquisite 15th-century tapestries, Thomas Becket’s vestments, silverware, and an abundance of medieval sculptures.
The art collection further includes two bronzes by Rodin and Renaissance paintings by Breughel the Younger and Abel Grimmer.
4. Marché Couvert
Facing the cathedral, Sens’ covered market originates from 1882 and has recently undergone renovations.
This structure, featuring an unusual triangular footprint, exhibits patterned brickwork reminiscent of Burgundy’s glazed roofs, making it uniquely identifiable in France.
It harmonizes Burgundian tradition with the Baltard design that became popular for covered markets in the 19th century. The large cast iron frame supports a glass canopy, allowing ample light to fill the interior.
A food market operates here on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday mornings, with stalls often extending onto the square in front on Mondays and Fridays.
5. Poterne Garnier des Prés
This captivating remnant of old Sens presents several phases of the town’s history in a single wall.
Observe the rougher lower section, as these stones date back to the 3rd century when an expansive enclosure spanning three kilometers was constructed around the town.
The materials for the base were repurposed from temples, baths, and even funerary monuments.
The postern, a small opening in the wall for escapes and surprise assaults on besieging forces, also dates from this era.
The rounded tower at the corner is a later addition, dating to the 13th century when the defenses were modernized.
6. Maison d’Abraham
Offering another insight into medieval Sens, the Maison d’Abraham is a 16th-century half-timbered residence situated at a crossroads in the old town, characterized by innovative carpentry.
This building justifies a brief visit due to the multitude of carvings adorning its timbers.
It features decorative patterns, filigrees, cherubs, and medallions with portraits.
Notably, the most intricate carving appears on a supporting pillar at the corner, sculpted into a Tree of Jesse, depicting the ancestors of Christ.
7. Old Centre
Despite its modest size, Sens is home to numerous historic monuments, including Renaissance wooden houses and opulent mansions from the 18th century.
The sole issue is that most of these are private residences; however, visitors can chart a route around the town to observe the most remarkable examples.
There are over 20 noteworthy buildings along streets that adhere to the layout established when the Gallo-Roman walls were erected 1,800 years ago.
Prominent mentions include the half-timbered Maison du Portal and the Maison Jean Cousin, both dating from the 1500s, alongside the refined Hôtel Vezou, formerly Sens’ town hall.
8. Parc du Moulin à Tan
Stretching over 10 hectares, this park is nourished by the Vanne and Lingue rivers, both tributaries of the Yonne River.
Landscaped in the 1880s, it was designed as a verdant barrier between the town and the rural landscape.
Recently, it received the designation of “jardin remarquable” and boasts a rich variety of spaces, including a wild rose garden, observation points for waterfowl, children’s playgrounds, an arboretum, and a small menagerie.
On weekdays, visitors can participate in informative tours of the park’s greenhouses led by the gardener or stroll about independently during the afternoons.
9. Théâtre Municipal
Provincial theatres of this nature are becoming increasingly rare in France.
Constructed in 1882, the same year as the covered market, Sens’ theatre exhibits a Classical exterior while its interior draws inspiration from the Italian Renaissance, adorned with lavish gilded plasterwork.
After falling into disrepair in the 1970s and nearly being repurposed as a bus terminal, it was salvaged and reopened in the 1980s.
Some notable performances in the 36 seasons since include Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf, Don Juan, Siegfried, and the Marriage of Figaro.
Esteemed artists such as Michel Portal, Alexandre Lagoya, and Kenny Garrett have graced the stage during that time.
10. Église Saint-Maurice
Situated in a picturesque location on the Île d’Yonne, the Église Saint-Maurice is a 12th-century church established for Sens’ river inhabitants.
This island historically served as a base for fishermen and operators of horse-drawn boats transporting wine between Auxerre and Paris.
From the Pont d’Yonne, the church presents a charming profile, enhanced by its slate-clad spire.
The pillars, wall arcades, and apse display Romanesque architecture, with origins dating back to the 1100s, while the flat, half-timbered chevet and vaults were constructed in the 1500s, showcasing Gothic design elements.
11. Lumières de Sens
On Fridays, Saturdays, and public holidays from June to September, a captivating free light show unfolds at Place de la République.
This annual event, initiated in 2014 to mark the cathedral’s 850th anniversary, features a half-hour display commencing at 22:30, projecting vibrant scenes onto the cathedral’s façade, echoing both historical events and imagery of Sens.
If you are present in Sens for the inaugural night of Lumières, around mid-June, all nearby restaurant and bar terraces are cleared for an hour-long concert performed by the town’s orchestra.
12. Musicasens
The Lumières de Sens show takes a hiatus for two nights in July to host a performing arts festival that attracts thousands of visitors each year.
Musicasens features a diverse range of performances, encompassing everything from contemporary dance to hard rock.
It is a vibrant time to be in Sens, with numerous side events around the town, including street performers, an impromptu circus, art installations, workshops, and even dance classes.
The festivities continue into the late hours, with headliners scheduled to perform close to midnight.
13. Basilique Saint-Savinien
The last of Sens’ churches began construction as early as 1068 and, akin to the cathedral, was built atop a significantly older structure.
The French Wars of Religion during the 1500s, adverse weather, fires, and looting during the Revolution severely impacted the church.
Nevertheless, substantial original Romanesque architecture remains, notably the crypt, which dates back to the early Middle Ages and may represent the earliest Christian site in the region.
The body of Saint-Savinien was deposited and interred here by Archbishop Wenilo in 847, thereby lending the church its name.
14. Château de La Motte-Tilly
After being donated to the Duke of Noailles by Louis XV, the family dismantled the former medieval castle and replaced it with an opulent château.
It served as both a hunting lodge and summer residence, constructed from brick and sandstone, featuring ornate wooden-panelled interiors, parquet floors, chandeliers, and various other exquisite decorations and fine art that remain on display today.
For this preservation, the château’s 20th-century owners expended significant efforts to recover the original furnishings.
The gardens are equally impressive, showcasing a large water mirror and an extensive central avenue, the Grande Allée, flanked by meticulously shaped topiaries.
15. Regional Food and Drink
Situated at the intersection of regions, Sens has adopted culinary influences from neighboring areas.
This is true for beverages, which may include Burgundy wine from the southeast and champagne from the northeast.
Additionally, this extends to andouillette, a rich tripe sausage from Troyes, honey sourced from the Gâtinais region, and apples from Pays d’Othe located to the east.
If one seeks to discover Burgundy wine, Auxerre is a recommended destination, especially for Chablis.
This esteemed white wine is produced exclusively from chardonnay grapes cultivated on the sunny southern slopes of rolling chalk hillsides.
