Summary
Located in the Gers department of southwestern France, Auch is a city that enchants visitors upon first sight of its historic Episcopal quarter, which is majestically elevated above the Gers River.
This area, known as the Haute-Ville, is quite steep, prompting the construction of special stairways in medieval times to facilitate safe descent to the river for its citizens.
These stairways, referred to as “Pousterles,” are unique to Auch, with five remaining for exploration.
The cathedral of Auch is a quintessential site, filled with Renaissance artistry and architectural brilliance.
Beyond the cathedral, visitors can discover a variety of museums, medieval landmarks, and the alluring Amragnac distilleries and bastide towns nearby.
Let’s delve into the top attractions in Auch:
1. Auch Cathedral
With its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site along the pilgrimage route to Compostela, Auch’s magnificent Cathedral stands as a prominent landmark across the landscape.
This architectural masterpiece represents a blend of Gothic and Renaissance styles, constructed during the 15th and 16th centuries, showcasing an array of intricate ornamentation.
The 113 stalls in the choir are marvelously hewn from durable oak, featuring around 1,500 distinct motifs that demand ample time for appreciation.
The choir windows are equally remarkable, often regarded as among the finest examples from this era in France.
2. Tour d’Armagnac
This 40-meter tower is a defining presence in Auch’s skyline.
The Tour d’Armagnac was erected in the 1300s, seamlessly attached to the Episcopal Palace adjacent to the cathedral.
Originally intended as a prison to illustrate the authority of the Bishop of Auch, the tower transitioned into a repository for religious records due to a dearth of inhabitants. It once again served as a prison during the Reign of Terror, remaining in that capacity until 1860, with preserved cells and a grand spiral staircase within.
3. Musée du Trésor de la Cathédrale
Recently, the ground floor of the Tour d’Armagnac has been repurposed into a treasury museum for the adjacent cathedral.
The collection comprises over 200 paintings, polychrome sculptures, carved stones, and gold artifacts, which possess significant artistic merit beyond their devotional purpose.
Additionally, the museum serves as an interpretive center for the cathedral and Episcopal Palace, featuring multimedia presentations that encompass the historical context and restoration efforts of the complex.
4. Monumental Staircase
A grand entrance to the Haute-Ville, Auch’s Escalier Monumental was a 19th-century initiative to create a more dignified connection between the two sections of the city, replacing the previous tunnel-like stairways.
This substantial project, completed around 1863, features three terraces adorned with gardens and fountains, connected by 374 steps that ascend from the riverbank to the Tour d’Armagnac.
The stairway exhibits neoclassical architecture, accentuated by balustrades and a statue of Charles de Batz-Castelmore d’Artagnan, a historical figure who inspired the novels of Alexandre Dumas and had ties to Auch.
5. Musée des Jacobins
Nestled within the winding streets of the old town, this exceptional museum houses the second-largest collection of pre-Columbian art in France.
Artifacts include gold, textiles, and ceramics from Peru and Mexico prior to Spanish colonization.
A notable highlight is “The Mass of St. Gregory,” a feather mosaic crafted in Mexico City in 1539, marking it as the oldest piece of Christian art created in the Americas.
Additionally, the museum showcases a range of artworks and artifacts from various periods, including a 1st-century bust of Trajan, polychrome medieval sculptures of the Virgin and Child, and ceramics.
6. Pousterles
In the medieval era, Auch’s challenging geography led to the creation of long, straight stairways that ascend to the Haute-Ville.
These are referred to as “Pousterles,” with a total of five in existence.
They facilitated rapid access for residents from the elevated area down to the river, with four of the original stairways still intact today, excluding the Vieille Pousterle.
Although the walks may be strenuous, they offer a glimpse of the noble stone houses flanking the sides, as well as an understanding of the daily challenges faced by medieval inhabitants as they sought water.
7. Promenade Claude-Desbons
The right bank of the Gers River offers a tranquil respite compared to the left side, featuring a four-kilometer stretch of parkland that runs adjacent to the waterfront throughout the city.
This area includes trees and grassy areas, providing numerous spots to relax while enjoying views of the cathedral and Tour d’Armagnac, which rise dramatically across the river.
For those who wish to maintain their fitness routine, this area is ideal for a morning jog, extending northward leads to the Parc du Couloumé.
Parc du Couloumé features five hectares of English-style park, rich with trees and strategically aligned to enhance the vistas of the Haute-Ville.
8. Maison à Colombages
Prominently positioned opposite the cathedral on Place de la République stands one of the most visually striking buildings in Auch.
This four-story half-timbered structure boasts a corbelled stone base supporting the upper, more delicate levels.
Upon closer inspection, visitors will note that the timber sections are filled with red bricks, displaying a variety of intricate patterns.
Having stood since the 1400s, the building now houses Auch’s Tourist Office, providing ample motivation to venture inside.
9. Marché Traditionelle
The Gers region is well-loved for its gourmet cuisine, especially for its renowned foie gras, which is in season from November through March.
Every Thursday and Saturday morning, a traditional market convenes at the base of the cathedral in Auch.
Most of the items available for purchase are locally sourced, offering an excellent opportunity to experience the culinary delights of this region, which embodies the transition between Mediterranean and Oceanic climates.
The market features wine, preserves, cheese, charcuterie, pastries, and fresh produce, all presented within a vibrant atmosphere.
10. Château de Lavardens
This splendid château, commanding a view over its namesake village, was originally a fief of the Counts of Armagnac, constructed in the 1100s.
Over time, the structure fell into disrepair, ultimately undergoing restoration in the 17th century.
Much of the architecture presently visible dates back to that restoration, although an outbreak of plague in the village in 1653 forced builders to abandon the upper sections, leaving them unfinished.
Inside, visitors can explore numerous fascinating areas, including a “whispering room” characterized by extraordinary acoustics that allow whispers to travel from corner to corner.
Today, the château serves as an exhibition venue, complete with a charming café in one of its adjacent outbuildings.
11. Fleurance
While exploring the quaint towns and villages near Auch, one may notice the characteristic grid layout common among bastide towns, hastily built for strategic reasons during the conflicts between England and France over Gascony in the 13th and 14th centuries.
Fleurance exemplifies this layout, featuring an arcaded central square adorned with statues symbolizing the four seasons.
Visitors should not miss the opportunity to view the Church of Saint-Laurent, renowned for its 15th-century stained glass windows crafted by Arnaud de Moles, the same esteemed master glassmaker who created windows in Auch Cathedral.
12. Outdoor Escapades
The Gers Department offers a serene environment characterized by sunflower fields, clusters of woodlands, and peaceful bastides.
With low traffic, the rural roads are particularly conducive for cycling, and local tourist offices provide maps for a variety of walking trails.
Adventurous explorers will find an extensive range of activities, including the discovery of ruined castles in Roquefort and a historical 13th-century bridge in Pavie.
Situated nearby in Pavie, Accrobranche presents an exhilarating outdoor adventure park typical of rural France, featuring ten different courses with rope swings, monkey bridges, and a 200-meter zip-line.
13. Abbaye de Flaran
A premier local excursion is the Cistercian Abbey located thirty minutes northwest of Auch, en route to Condom.
Founded in 1151, it is recognized as one of the most well-preserved medieval monasteries in southwestern France.
A remarkable collection of structures, including the Romanesque church, cloister, chapter house, kitchen, sacristy, calefactory, and refectory, remain intact.
Notably, the herb garden continues to grow aromatic and medicinal plants.
For additional incentives to visit, the site hosts a rotating art exhibition featuring pieces from the Simonow Collection, including works by prominent artists such as Renoir, Rodin, and Gainsborough.
14. Wine Tourism
Armagnac brandy is distilled in the Gers Department, with production sites located just a few kilometers north and northwest of Auch.
Unlike Cognac, which is predominantly crafted by large corporations, Armagnac is produced mainly by small family-owned businesses.
Visitors can experience behind-the-scenes tours at several local distilleries, such as Domaine de Laubnesse, Armagnac Samalens, and Domaine de Charron.
Furthermore, for those interested in regional wine tasting, Domaine de Herrebouc, situated west of Auch, produces organic Côtes de Gascogne wines on an exquisite Gascon château estate.
15. Cuisine
For those seeking authentic local products to take home, options include cans and jars of terrine de canard, rillettes au foie de canard, and canard aux pruneaux (with prunes), all crafted in the vicinity of Auch.
Additionally, many local desserts are infused with Floc de Gascogne, a fortified sweet wine made from a blend of Armagnac and grape juice.
This delightful ingredient adds a unique twist to classic desserts, such as crème brûlée.
