Summary
Known as “La Ville aux Trois Clochers,” or the City with Three Steeples, Cambrai is a picturesque provincial town in the Nord Department. Despite its peaceful present, Cambrai experienced significant destruction during the intense battles of 1917, marking the first utilization of tanks in warfare.
In the subsequent 1920s, the historic structures were meticulously restored, resulting in the stunning preservation of landmarks such as the UNESCO-listed belfry, ancient gates, and ornate churches. The religious heritage of Cambrai is particularly notable, as it served as the center of a powerful archdiocese, providing visitors with an opportunity to explore medieval artifacts and masterpieces, including a remarkable painting by Rubens.
Let us delve into the best things to do in Cambrai:
1. Musée de Cambrai
Situated in a stately 18th-century mansion, the Musée de Cambrai showcases an extensive collection of Dutch, French, and Flemish art, along with artifacts that document the town’s history. Notable artists featured include Hyacinthe Rigaud, Boudin, and Ingres. A particularly intriguing exhibit is the 17th-century plan relief of Cambrai, a 3D map that was preserved following its transportation to Berlin during the Franco-Prussian War in 1870 and subsequent damage during World War II, before being restored in 1994.
2. Église Saint-Géry
This striking church exemplifies a fusion of Dutch Baroque and French Classicism, having developed over more than a millennium. It originates from a church founded in the 500s, making it the oldest in the town. Inside, visitors can admire the unparalleled blue stone canopy at the transept cross, a polychrome marble rood screen by Gaspard Marsy, and the famous painting of the Entombment by Peter Paul Rubens.
3. Cambrai Belfry
No city in this region would be complete without a medieval belfry. The Cambrai Belfry, a magnificent 62.5-meter Gothic tower dating back to the mid-15th century, has earned UNESCO World Heritage status. While less ornate than others in the region, it remains a captivating component of medieval history, serving as a watchtower to signal enemy attacks and fires until the bells were electrified in 1934.
4. Porte de Paris
This impressive gate, which controlled the southern entrance of the city, was constructed towards the end of the 14th century following the English siege during the Hundred Years’ War. Visitors can observe where the drawbridge mechanism would have operated above the portal as well as the modifications made in the 16th century to reduce its profile for greater defense against artillery.
5. Porte de Notre-Dame
This 17th-century gate stands independently on Boulevard Faidherbe to the north of old Cambrai. Built during the Spanish period, it features a highly decorative Baroque style, complete with regimented pinnacles, Corinthian columns, and an alcove showcasing a sculpture of the Virgin and Child. The intricate decoration emerged after the construction of an outer defense ring, rendering the gate’s original function obsolete.
6. Cambrai Citadel
The Cambrai Citadel was commissioned by Charles V to protect the city against artillery threats and was built on Mont-des-Boeufs, the site of a former 6th-century monastery. Although decommissioned in the 19th century, significant remnants, including the Royal Gate and 19th-century barracks, still exist. Visitors can explore the fascinating network of tunnels originally dug to intercept enemy mines, accessible through guided tours organized by the local tourist office.
7. Cambrai Cathedral
The distinctive appearance of Cambrai Cathedral sets it apart from other prominent churches in Northern France, as it was only designated as the city’s cathedral in the early 19th century after the original Gothic structure was demolished during the Revolution. This Baroque structure, originally an abbey, boasts highlights such as the funerary monument of François Fénelon and the Cambrai Madonna, an Italo-Byzantine replica painted around 1340.
8. Place Aristide-Briand
Unbeknownst to many, this square underwent substantial reconstruction after World War I. The town hall, which dates back to the 1300s, features a Neoclassical facade completed during the reign of Napoleon III in the mid-19th century. Visitors can also observe the two automated bell-strikers, Martin and Martine, positioned in front of the cupola, which have symbolized Cambrai since 1512, with numerous legends surrounding their origin.
9. La Maison Espagnole
La Maison Espagnole serves as a delightful tourist office and one of the best-preserved historic houses in Cambrai. Constructed in 1595, this house highlights the architectural style prevalent during the Spanish occupation of the town in the 16th and 17th centuries. Visitors will notice the combination of materials, including limestone for the base and timber for the upper storeys, beautifully adorned with dark slate on the top floor.
10. Chapelle des Jésuites
Adjacent to La Maison Espagnole, the Chapelle des Jésuites is equally compelling from both an aesthetic and historical perspective. It showcases intricate ornamentation, including pilasters, spiral wings, and a dramatic Madonna sculpture—all deliberately designed. Established in the 1670s by Jesuits, this Baroque chapel stands as a testament to the counter-reformation and features extensive interior reliefs and a collection of magnificent paintings depicting the life of Christ.
11. Festivités de Cambrai
For those visiting in mid-August, the annual festival offers an excellent opportunity to engage with Cambrai’s traditions and community spirit. On August 15th, a parade featuring “giants,” tall papier-mâché figures representing the town’s famous Moorish bell-strikers, takes place before culminating in a spectacular fireworks display. Throughout the ten-day festival, over 200 fairground rides and sideshows animate the main streets and squares of the city center.
12. Matisse Museum
Henri Matisse, one of the most influential artists of the past century, was born nearby in Le Cateau. In the 1950s, he established this museum, which now houses France’s third-largest collection of his artwork, consisting of 170 pieces. Matisse played an active role in the museum’s design and presentation, making it a priority for anyone with an interest in modern art.
13. Musée de la Dentelle
The lace industry flourished in the nearby town of Caudry during the early 1800s and continues to thrive today. The Musée de la Dentelle, located in a repurposed factory, provides insights into the craftsmanship and technology behind this traditional art form, featuring video presentations, a mechanical loom from 1823, and a remarkable collection of dresses and fashion accessories spanning from the 19th century to the present.
14. Cateau Abbey Brewery
The region has a rich beer-making heritage, and the site in Le Cateau-Cambrésis stands as a recognized historic monument. Originally a Benedictine abbey, it was converted into a brewery in 1910 and operated until 1926. After restoration in 2000, it resumed brewing under the Vivat brand, offering tastings, meals, and a glimpse into vintage machinery, including a steam engine.
15. Local Specialities
Cambrai’s traditional brasseries offer hearty delicacies that may appeal to adventurous eaters. Andouilles, featuring various pig parts encased in cow intestines, and andouillette, a dish made from grilled calf innards served with French fries, are local favorites. Moreover, for those seeking treats, Bêtises de Cambrai, originally a striped mint candy, is now available in various flavors, including apple, raspberry, lemon, and orange.