Summary
Even older than Amsterdam, Doesburg is a fortified city where the Oude IJssel converges with the Gelderse IJssel, a tributary of the Rhine. In Medieval times, trade along the IJssel flourished, making Doesburg the economic center of the Doesburg Quarter, part of the larger Zutphen Quarter. Due to silting on the IJssel in the 16th century, much of Doesburg’s most notable heritage dates from the late Medieval period, including the city hall, weigh house, and Church of St Martin (Martinikerk). The region has been producing mustard for over 500 years, with a dedicated museum and traditional dishes like mustard soup featured on local menus.
1. Historic Centre
Doesburg was granted city rights in 1237, six decades prior to Amsterdam, and its street layout has largely retained its Medieval character. Situated at the convergence of the Oude IJssel and Gelderse IJssel, Doesburg held significant strategic importance, surviving relatively unscathed since the departure of the French army in 1674. This preservation has allowed for more than 150 buildings within the city center to acquire national monument recognition. While the main attractions in Doesburg are listed below, the compact and walkable center, adorned with gas lights and floral brick houses, is a delight to explore without a specific destination.
The first Sunday of each month is designated as Culturele Zondag, where nearly 30 workshops, galleries, and museums welcome the public. During the summer holidays, guided tours of the city center are available through the tourist office on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons at 15:00.
2. Museum de Roode Tooren
This well-curated regional museum provides insight into the historical lifestyles and occupations of individuals in Doesburg and its surrounding areas. The exhibition features a tobacco shop interior from 1894 alongside grocery store displays from 1880 and 1940. Moreover, an intriguing collection of artifacts relating to the arts, crafts, religion, trade, agriculture, folklore, textiles, archaeology, and geology is showcased in display cases. Models of the city as it appeared in 1560 and 1655 are also featured, together with a model of a remarkable pontoon bridge that functioned as a crossing over the IJssel until the completion of the road bridge in the 1950s. The museum shop offers heritage products, including handmade toys, puzzles, traditional candy, Dutch “reading boards” for children, and Doesburg mustard.
3. Het Arsenaal 1309
This structure was initially established as a convent in 1309 and converted into an arsenal for the fortified city in 1730. Following its military use, the building transitioned into residential spaces and eventually became an antiques shop. Presently, Het Arsenaal 1309 serves as a multifunctional facility for the city, where visitors can immerse themselves in the historical ambiance of the building and its courtyard. Additionally, it houses a Grand Café, wine store, whiskey distillery, dance studio, and hosts evening cinema screenings. Notably, restoration efforts revealed fascinating historical artifacts, such as a cemetery for 50 individuals and access to a Medieval lime pit located in the basement. For those seeking nighttime entertainment in Doesburg, live performances and club nights are often scheduled.
4. Doesburgsche Mosterdfabriek
Doesburg has been producing wholegrain mustard since the mid-15th century, and the mustard factory-turned-museum provides insights into the city’s long-standing association with this condiment. The facility enhanced its offerings in the 1970s by establishing an exhibition that showcases vintage mustard-making equipment from recently closed factories within Doesburg. Visitors can learn about the origins of Doesburg’s mustard industry, the historical significance of mustard in diets, and observe antique mustard-making tools in action. Additionally, sampling the local specialty of mustard soup is a must, with traditional options featuring bacon or modern variations incorporating smoked salmon.
5. De Waag
Weigh houses, exemplified by this charming structure located at Koepoortstraat 2, were integral to Medieval Dutch cities, serving as establishments for weighing goods imported into towns for taxation purposes. The weigh house in Doesburg, constructed in 1478, features brick architecture with stepped gables and Nederrijn Gothic pinnacles. The proprietor of the weigh house possessed exclusive rights to the sale of foreign beers in Doesburg, effectively establishing De Waag as both a tavern and storage facility for beer. This pub remains operational today, making it one of the oldest hospitality venues in the Netherlands. A visit is recommended for a meal in the inviting basement, where patrons dine beneath an arched ceiling.
6. Société Musée Lalique Pays Bas
Located on Gasthuisstraat is a dedicated museum for the renowned master of Art Nouveau and Art Deco glass design, René Lalique (1860-1945). The charming venue encompasses two houses recognized as national monuments, featuring exquisite stained glass windows. The museum hosts an impressive collection of Lalique’s perfume bottles, glass sculptures, jewelry, and decorative vases. Interactive exhibits with touch screens also enable visitors to zoom in on the intricate details and symbols embedded in many of his creations. At the time of writing, a year-long exhibition showcasing the glass works of Marc Chagall was also being displayed, running until June 2019.
7. Doesburg Defensive Lines
A glance at a map reveals the elaborate defensive network that historically safeguarded Doesburg from land attacks originating from the south and east. These earthworks, trenches, ravelins, ramparts, and batteries were constructed in 1700 under the direction of the renowned military engineer Menno van Coehoorn. Presently, these systems are situated within a 30-hectare area of open countryside, merging military history with untouched nature.
To the south, the simpler low defense line, bordering marshy terrain alongside an arm of the IJssel, is now characterized by wetlands filled with dense reed beds, which can be accessed for leisurely walks starting from the Turfhaven or Kraakselaan roads. The high defense line, located to the east, is more intricate and was specifically designed to protect Doesburg’s most susceptible side. This area has been generally closed off to the public to allow natural ecosystems to thrive; however, tours are occasionally organized through the Museum de Roode Tooren.
8. Stadhuis
The city hall of Doesburg, a designated Dutch national monument, comprises two Medieval structures unified in 1663. The Wijnhuis, a former wine cellar from the 14th century, features a stepped gable and blind round-arch windows to the west, while the 15th-century Schepenhuis (House of the Aldermen) is positioned at the junction of Roggen- and Koepoortstraat, also showcasing a stepped gable and Nederrijn Gothic pinnacles akin to the nearby weigh house. If given the opportunity to enter, visitors can admire the exquisite vaulting in the basement, adorned with Gothic keystones, and the ornamental mantelpiece within the council chamber, which features decorative stuccowork illustrating Solomon’s judgment, completed in 1665.
9. Gildehof
Adjacent to the mustard factory on Meipoortstraat, visitors will discover a passageway labeled “Gildehof,” leading to an inviting courtyard surrounded by shops offering antique books, arts and crafts, fashion, curiosities, and specialty foods. At its center lies De Zwarte Kat (The Black Cat), which perfectly encapsulates the essence of the Gildehof with its eclectic selection of items, ranging from candles to vintage lighting and second-hand books to decorative arts. It is also advisable to explore Azijnmakerij Piperita, which boasts a diverse array of vinegars, including garlic, basil, and elderberry, as well as homemade wax candles, honey, and a variety of kitchen herbs and teas.
10. Martinikerk
The Martinikerk in Doesburg features the eighth tallest church tower in the Netherlands, standing at 94 meters. This tower has previously endured considerable hardships, suffering damage from lightning strikes in 1547 and 1717, and was severely impacted first by French forces in 1672 and later by the retreating German army in 1945. The tower underwent complete restoration in 1945 and showcases late-Gothic design, as does the nave and chancel. Visitors are encouraged to enter, where they can view several intriguing fittings, including ledger stones dating from the 16th century, as well as 17th-century chandeliers and furnishings like the pulpit, stalls, and communion table. Among the notable artworks is a 15th-century painting of Agnes of Rome in the south aisle, with traces of 1530-era murals observable in the vaulting of the “Anna choir.” The Martinikerk regularly hosts concerts and recitals featuring the Walcker organ, installed in 1916.
11. Veluwezoom National Park
To the west of Doesburg, the terrain transitions to a more hilly landscape as one approaches Veluwezoom National Park. These hills, formed from sand, were shaped by glacial activity during the penultimate ice age approximately 150,000 years ago. A journey of 15 minutes leads to the Posbank, one of the highest elevations in the Veluwe, reaching 90 meters and offering stunning views of the heathland, which transforms into a beautiful purple hue in late July. During autumn, visitors may observe the spectacle of red deer during their rutting season, characterized by stags clashing and roaring to claim their mates. The Heuven estate, located in proximity to Doesburg, is one of the few historical properties situated on the southern side of the park, encompassing the Veluwezoom visitor center, complete with a playground for children and informational resources about the park’s flora and fauna.
12. IJssel River
The IJssel River is celebrated by many as one of the most picturesque rivers in the Netherlands, providing ample opportunities to explore its wetland areas and tributaries, including the Oude IJssel south of Doesburg. Doesburg also grants access to the Hanzeroute, a 133-kilometer path that traces the route once navigated by merchant vessels of the Hanseatic League. This charming route meanders along dikes and through meadows that are often submerged during the winter months. Starting from the Oude IJssel at Laag-Keppel, visitors may utilize a ferry service to Arnhem or Zutphen. Alternatively, the river offers a serene setting for mere relaxation, with the newly landscaped quayside on the western side of the city being an excellent vantage point to watch boats drift by.