Summary
This fortified town on the Bergsche Maas was established around the 13th century and underwent significant transformation during the 1500s.
Positioned strategically on the river separating Brabant and Gelderland, Heusden was developed into a fortress as part of the Zuiderwaterlinie, a series of defenses established to safeguard the Netherlands against Spanish and subsequently French invasions.
Over time, Heusden experienced a loss of some of its heritage, particularly when the Maas was rerouted in the early 20th century, and again during the German retreat in 1944. However, in the years following the war, Heusden successfully restored its historical character, undertaking a town-wide restoration project based on a 1649 map created by the cartographer Johannes Blaeu.
This initiative garnered the town a prestigious Europa Nostra cultural heritage award.
1. Heusden Fortifications
As you approach the town across the moat, you will undoubtedly be motivated to explore Heusden’s intricate array of ramparts, ravelins, and bastions, constructed during the 16th and 17th centuries.
A designated path enabling you to trace the course of the defenses allows you to ascend the embankments, offering expansive views over North Brabant to the south and the River Maas and Gelderland to the north.
The local tourist office provides a self-guided walking tour of the fortifications, which offers valuable historical insights and information regarding the various defensive structures.
2. Town Tour
Head to the tourist office or visitor center located in the old town hall, where you can participate in a bilingual walking tour of the center, typically conducted on Sundays.
A self-guided exploration is certainly an option as well; wander along streets featuring over 100 Dutch heritage sites.
Heusden has an upscale ambiance, evident in its cafes and clusters of galleries and artist studios.
Among your stops might be the fish market, identifiable by Neoclassical shelters featuring 12 Doric columns, constructed in 1796. The historic harbor in the north presents a delightful scene, bordered by rows of quayside residences and the notable Molen I windmill, completed during Heusden’s reconstruction and accessible on Saturdays.
This harbor was filled in after the Maas was redirected in 1904, but was reconnected to the river in the 1970s.
3. Het Gouverneurshuis
Offering insights into Heusden’s history in a dignified setting, the Gouverneurshuis was constructed for the governor of the garrison in 1592. The building features a stepped gable and possesses a walled garden, designed in a formal style complete with geometric rose beds, benches, fruit trees, and lawns.
In 1985, the town museum opened here, and it was modernized in 2012 with an interactive exhibit recounting the construction of this fortified town, utilizing paintings, books, archaeological finds, old maps, and silverware.
The museum provides access to the outbuildings of the house, including a smaller residence and a wine shed.
Conclude your visit with a cup of coffee on the terrace.
4. National Park De Loonse en Drunense Duinen
Heusden is situated merely ten kilometers north of a national park colloquially referred to as the “Brabant Sahara.” This expansive landscape primarily consists of dramatic sand dunes interspersed with tufts of grass and coniferous woodlands.
This area was formed by overgrazing during Medieval times, becoming the largest region of shifting sands in Western Europe, characterized by a desert-like microclimate that can reach temperatures in the 40s during summer days and drop to near freezing at night.
The park features both paved and unpaved trails suitable for walking and cycling. As you traverse the area, you may discover that entire villages lie buried beneath the sands from centuries past.
Individuals with some experience in horseback riding can embark on an unforgettable journey through the dunes with Maaike’s Adventure Stables, just a few minutes from Heusden.
5. Bezoekerscentrum Heusden
The tourist office and visitor center is located within Heusden’s former town hall.
This monument, originating in the 15th century, was destroyed by retreating German troops in November 1944, resulting in the loss of 134 lives, which accounted for a tenth of the town’s population.
The rebuilding was completed in 1956, adopting a new architectural direction influenced by the Bossche School.
In 1997, this structure transitioned from its administrative duty to become a cultural resource for tourists.
The town hall serves as a launching point for tours around the town and features a memorial to the victims of the 1944 tragedy. Visitors can access a wealth of inspiration and view an informative film available in both Dutch and English.
The center hosts changing exhibitions about the town and features a 30-square-meter scale model of the fortified town on permanent display.
6. Kasteel Heusden
Heusden originated at the foot of a castle constructed during the 12th century.
It came under the control of Brabant in 1328, soon thereafter reinforced by an octagonal keep 40 meters high.
This structure might have remained intact today if not for a calamity in 1680 that destroyed not only the castle but also most surrounding houses.
The keep was struck by lightning, igniting 16,000 pounds of gunpowder.
The remnants of the castle are located in the southwestern corner of the fortified town.
A basic restoration of the foundations occurred in 1987, warranting a brief visit. Nearby, there is a children’s playground set within the green courtyard adjacent to the ruins.
7. River Cruise
If you are captivated by the enchanting views of the Bergsche Maas, a tour boat operator is located at the harbor in Heusden.
Rondvaart Wiljo operates three boats and offers a diverse selection of tours, lasting up to 7.5 hours.
If time permits for half a day, you could embark on a cruise along the Maximakanaal to Den Bosch, or consider a fortress-to-fortress trip to the mesmerizing Woudrichem.
For a more abbreviated excursion, Wiljo provides an hour-long round trip from Easter until the beginning of September.
This journey navigates onto the Maas and into a former arm of the river, the Dode Maaasarm, now a nature reserve teeming with waterfowl and flanked by windmills and the charming villages of Nederhemert and Wellseind.
8. Kasteel Ammersoyen
Located upriver on the opposite bank of the Maas, this castle was erected in the mid-14th century.
Initially positioned right against the river, it has since been relocated approximately half a kilometer away due to rerouting.
In the 16th century, Kasteel Ammersoyen was occupied by the Habsburgs during the Guelders Wars and later by the Spanish during the Eighty Years’ War, although neither occupation lasted for an extended period.
From 1873 until World War II, it functioned as a Clarisse Convent; afterward, the damaged property was refurbished and repurposed as a washing machine factory.
The castle is accessible from Tuesday to Sunday from April to October and on Sundays throughout the remainder of the year.
Visitors can appreciate the beautifully restored historic interiors and examine numerous artifacts, including earthenware, glass, and metalwork retrieved from the moat.
One of the most notable pieces is a pristine bronze beaker dating back to the 1400s.
9. Heemtuin de Meulenwerf
Heemtuin de Meulenwerf, cared for by volunteers, is a 3.5-hectare garden near the old harbor.
The mission of the garden is to assist the residents of Heusden in rekindling a lost connection with the countryside.
To achieve this goal, the garden is populated with indigenous species, crops, and various plants cultivated for purposes such as herbal medicine, brewing, and textile production.
Each plant is accompanied by a label indicating its origin and potential uses.
The lower sections of the garden encompass marshes, reedbeds, and meadows, alongside a sensory trail to enrich the experiences of visitors with visual impairments by stimulating touch, sound, and smell.
10. Emmamolen
If you are cycling along the Loonse en Drunense Duinen trail southeast of Heusden, you will likely encounter this charming tower mill dating back to 1886. Situated adjacent to a nature reserve, the Emmamolen was named in honor of Emma of Waldeck and Pyrmont, the Queen of the Netherlands at the time.
The mill remains operational and preserves much of its original interior, which was last restored over 50 years ago.
In contrast to most historic windmills, it opens its doors every day of the week.
This is due to a café located on the ground floor, where guided tours are conducted during operating hours.
A bakery produces treats using the mill’s own flour, available for purchase in the shop.
11. Efteling
Located on the western edge of the national park is the largest and oldest theme park in the Low Countries, which ranks as the third most-visited in Europe.
The remarkable Efteling is infused with fairy tales, myths, and folklore, having first opened in 1952 with the addition of the Fairytale Forest, designed by illustrator Anton Pieck, which remains one of the park’s most cherished features.
Efteling is renowned for its exceptional production quality, abundant greenery, and four creatively designed zones known as “Realms.” The Fairy Realm hosts the Fairytale Forest, as well as Droomvlucht (Dreamflight), an indoor ride that is a must-experience, featuring fairies, unicorns, and trolls brought to life.
Teenagers may gravitate towards the Adventure Realm, which showcases thrilling rides, including the Python, Joris en de Draak (George and the Dragon), and the cutting-edge Baron 1898, a steel dive coaster complemented by a score from the Brussels Philharmonic.
12. Cycling
Located in the Netherlands, Heusden benefits from an extensive and well-maintained network of cycling paths.
You can navigate the countryside using Knooppunten, nodes situated at the intersections of cycling routes. This system enables you to plan your route online before embarking on your journey.
The tourist office offers a leaflet detailing the Ringdijk route, a 35.5-kilometer trail traversing the dikes and floodplains of the River Maas, providing encounters with mills, farms, locks, and another fortress as you cycle through the flat terrain.
For those utilizing e-bikes, charging stations are available along the route, complemented by 17 information boards that provide insights regarding the nature and history of the Bergsche Maas.
Heusden is also part of a trail featuring the fortified towns along the Zuiderwaterlinie, a defensive line established in the 16th century.