Summary
The capital of the Gyeonggi Province is situated towards the south of the expansive Seoul Metropolitan Area, with its historical neighborhoods surrounded by the walls of Hwaseong Fortress.
This formidable fortification was constructed at the close of the 18th century under the reign of Jeongjo of Joseon (1752-1800) and has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Impressive remnants of five kilometers of walls retain their stature, reinforced by watchtowers and grand gates that harmoniously blend with the modern urban landscape.
The research and development headquarters for Samsung Electronics is located at an extensive facility in eastern Suwon, which houses a notable museum detailing the company’s history and future advancements.
Let us delve into the top attractions in Suwon:
1. Hwaseong Fortress
The unfortunate fate of the 27-year-old Crown Prince Sado unfolded in 1762 when he was confined in a rice box by orders of his father, resulting in his prolonged starvation.
In 1789, Sado’s son, King Jeonjo, relocated his remains to what is now Suwon and spent the following decade constructing more than five kilometers of walls around the tomb, reaching heights between four and six meters.
Hwaseong Fortress stands as a testament to filial devotion, initially intended to serve as a new capital for Korea.
Built with remarkable precision for the 18th century, even the most minute details were recorded in the Hwaseong Seongyeok Uigwe document of 1801, which now serves as a crucial reference for restorations.
The fortress encompasses a vast area, however, a tourist trolley is available to transport visitors to the main gates, the royal palace within, and the museum.
2. Haenggung Palace
To have a place to stay during visits to his father’s tomb, King Jeongjo commissioned the construction of a palace, completed in 1789 and later expanded simultaneously with the fortress.
Post-renovation, the palace consisted of an extensive array of over 20 buildings situated at the eastern base of Paldalsan Hill.
In King Jeongjo’s absence, the palace served as a center of governance for appointed officials.
In 1795, the palace hosted lavish celebrations for Jeongjo’s mother’s 60th birthday, and special banquets for elderly citizens were also held there.
Much of the palace was dismantled during the Japanese occupation in the early 20th century, but restoration work commenced in 1996, culminating in its reopening in 2003. Attending the Jangyongyeong guard ceremony at 14:00 on Saturday between April and October offers an opportunity to observe an authentic ritual from the 18th century.
3. Hwahongmun Gate (Buksumun)
Among the most picturesque aspects of the fortress is the northern gate, which spans across the Suwon River, featuring seven elegant arches.
Adorning the river is a beautiful wooden pavilion equipped with cannons, capable of fortification in the event of sieges.
The gate’s appeal is further enhanced by the sequence of weirs located on the river’s southern side.
4. Paldalmun Gate
The grand southern gate of the fortress stands alone within a bustling roundabout at the heart of Suwon, conveniently located near markets and dining establishments.
This notable structure is detached from the fortress wall, which has given rise to the contemporary streetscape.
The exterior of Paldalmun features a semi-circular enclosure (ongseong), and a splendid pavilion towers above, located on the second floor.
While the interior remains inaccessible, it houses a bell utilized for Buddhist ceremonies, initially cast in 1080 and recast in 1687. Take some time to explore the markets nearby, where one can find medicinal herbs, fresh seafood, meats, and a myriad of stalls offering delicacies such as sundae (blood sausage), bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes), chapssal (rice doughnuts with red bean paste filling), and jjinppang-mandu (steamed buns).
5. Suwon Hwaseong Museum
This museum provides comprehensive insights into Hwaseong Fortress, including the historical context of Jeongjo of Joseon’s ultimately unsuccessful endeavor to establish Suwon as the political center of Korea.
Exhibits feature models, maps, original architectural plans, and contemporary documents illustrating the construction processes and daily routines within this formidable bastion.
Visitors will discover the meticulous planning involved, with details preserved in the Hwaseong Seongyeok Uigwe document (1801), even outlining personal information regarding the construction workers.
Models also portray techniques derived from various global fortifications, including earth-covered ramparts, bastions characteristic of European artillery forts, and curved walls reminiscent of Himeji Castle in Japan.
6. Yeonmudae (Dongjandae)
Situated on elevated terrain accessible via three tiers of steps between the east gate (Changryongmun) and Hwahongmun, this observation post, established in 1795, was manned by four soldiers and two generals during the king’s stay.
Once the completion of the stronghold was achieved, Yeonmudae additionally served as a training area for soldiers, fostering proficiency in archery and the usage of swords and spears for the subsequent two centuries.
This tradition continues today, allowing visitors to don traditional military attire and participate in brief archery lessons for a nominal fee.
7. Samsung Innovation Museum
Samsung Electronics, established in Suwon in 1969, continues to maintain its headquarters in the city.
Located within Samsung Digital City in eastern Gyeonggi-do, the brand hosts a contemporary museum dedicated to the history of electronics.
With the exception of Saturdays where no reservation is required, access can be limited as prior arrangements must be made for guided tours.
The museum chronicles the progression of South Korea’s electronics industry, showcasing home appliances, radio technology, displays, and mobile communications.
Visitors will delve into the past and explore the promising future of semiconductors, gaining insights into Samsung’s journey and its vision for what lies ahead.
Following the guided tour, there will be an opportunity to revisit the exhibits independently should any aspect require more detailed exploration.
8. Korean Folk Village
For an immersion into traditional Korean culture and to understand historical daily life, consider a visit to this open-air museum located east of Suwon in Yongin (accessible via a shuttle bus from Suwon Station). The 260+ hanoks and other historic structures at the Korean Folk Village are mostly authentic and were relocated here during the early 1970s.
Visitors can explore traditional street markets, observe demonstrations of woodworking and metalworking, and enjoy high-quality performances featuring horseback riding, dance, and various seasonal events.
English brochures are available to ensure guests remain informed about ongoing activities.
Additionally, the Korean Folk Village is an excellent venue to sample traditional Korean delicacies such as bukeo-gui (grilled dried pollock), jeungpyeon (steamed fermented rice cake), and pajeon (scallion pancakes). Families can entertain children with available rides and even rent hanboks (traditional Korean attire) for a more immersive experience.
9. Buksuwon Spa Flex
Located a short walk from Sungkyunkwan University station, this jjimjilbang is considered the finest in Suwon.
Typical jjimjilbangs are an essential experience for newcomers to South Korea.
As with all jjimjilbangs, Buksuwon Spa Flex features separate bathing facilities for men and women, where it is customary to bathe or soak in a steam room without clothing.
The facility offers a diverse range of temperatures, varying from a chilly 15°C to a warm 45°C, all sourced from authentic hot springs.
Beyond the bathing area, the communal space is equipped with numerous amenities, including free Wi-Fi, various saunas, a gym, a computer room, a movie room with a large screen, treatment areas, comic book rentals, and a play zone for children.
Jjimjilbangs often provide sleeping quarters (both private and communal), and this particular location is highly recommended for its culinary offerings.
10. Galbi
Suwon is renowned for gui, distinguished by food prepared at traditional restaurants using a grill situated at the center of the dining table.
One dish to experience is Samgyeopsal, featuring unseasoned pork belly typically wrapped in lettuce leaves and paired with ssamjang, a spicy condiment.
However, the quintessential gui specialty in Suwon is galbi, a barbecued beef short rib, commonly marinated for up to 24 hours in a combination of soy sauce, sugar, garlic, and onions.
At the conclusion of the meal, a refreshing broth made from the same ribs is typically served.
While excellent galbi can be found throughout Suwon, three restaurants are frequently noted for their superior offerings: Bonsuwon Galbi (Uman-dong), Gabojeong Galbi (Ingye-dong), and Shilla Galbi (Woncheon-dong).
11. Manseok Park
Encircling a large reservoir, Manseok Park is an urban green space bordered by the Suwon Arts Centre to the south.
This reservoir has a fascinating history, having been excavated in the 18th century to provide irrigation for rice paddies under King Jeongjo of Joseon.
A scenic 1.2-kilometer path follows the water’s edge, bordered by lawns and cherry trees.
The park’s outdoor stage on the east side features an array of summer events, supplemented by various sports facilities for football, basketball, tennis, and skating (including Korea’s highest half-pipe). In spring, the cherry blossoms present a stunning spectacle, with lotus flowers gracing the reservoir in summer.
12. Toilet Museum (Haeujae)
The former mayor of Suwon, Sim Jae-duck (1939-2009), earned the moniker “Mr. Toilet” for his campaign to enhance sanitation facilities in the city and subsequently became the inaugural president of the Korea Toilet Association.
In 2007, he even dismantled the house he had occupied for three decades and reconstructed it to resemble a giant toilet, commemorating the establishment of the World Toilet Association, later gifting this unique structure to the city.
The building, referred to as Haeujae, translates to “house to relieve one’s concerns,” a euphemism used by temples for restrooms.
Younger children may find the amusing displays inside the complimentary toilet museum particularly engaging, while adults can appreciate the bizarre nature of the establishment and learn about the evolution of toilet technology and customs throughout history.
Outside, a sculpture park showcases quirky installations, including figures portraying the act of relieving oneself and an oversized coiled bronze sculpture, allowing visitors to climb and take photos.
13. Suwon World Cup Stadium
The Suwon Samsung Bluewings, four-time champions of the K League, have been in existence since 1995 and were gifted a modern 44,000-seater stadium nicknamed “Big Bird” due to its expansive, wing-like roof in the lead-up to the 2002 World Cup.
This stadium hosted four World Cup matches, as well as the semi-final of the Confederations Cup between France and Brazil the preceding year.
The best experience of Suwon World Cup Stadium occurs on match days, with the Bluewings engaging in 19 home fixtures from March to December; the derby match against FC Seoul is particularly notable. On rainy days, the roof’s design causes water to flow downwards, resulting in an effect termed Big Bird Falls, which many superstitious fans believe signifies good luck for the Bluewings.
The surrounding area features a World Cup sculpture park, as well as a pool and driving range.
A museum documenting the history of Korean football and the World Cup is also located inside and is open daily.
14. Yungneung and Geolleung
Continuing with the royal theme, another UNESCO World Heritage Site is located slightly south of Suwon.
Surrounded by oak woodlands, Yungneung and Geolleung encompass a pair of tombs from the Joseon dynasty, dating back to 1816 and 1821, respectively.
Yungneung is the resting place of King Jangjo (1735-1762) and Queen Heongyeong (1735-1815), comprising a grassy mound encircled by retaining stones adorned with lotus carvings.
Adjacent to the mound are two steles (Mangjuseok), while a rectangular carving (Honyuseok) is positioned in front. En route down the hillside, a series of carvings laden with symbolism depict a civil officer (Muninseok), a military officer (Muinseok), and a horse (Seokma). At the downhill terminus, reached via a paved “worship road,” lies a shrine accompanied by a royal kitchen and shelter for two memorial steles.
The Geolleung tomb is dedicated to King Jeongjo (1752-1800) and Queen Hyoui (1753-1821), featuring an almost identical layout, albeit with only one stele instead of two.
15. Everland
The largest theme park in South Korea lies just over 20 kilometers east of Suwon, offering a vibrant contrast to the city’s rich historical backdrop.
Operated by a subsidiary of Samsung, Everland features thrilling rides, including the renowned T Express, recognized as the steepest, longest, highest, and fastest wooden rollercoaster in South Korea.
European Adventure is a dedicated zone featuring architecture and culinary delights from Europe, while Zootopia serves as a zoological park, recently launching a safari tour via an amphibious bus.
The highlight of Zootopia is Panda World, which is home to a pair of giant pandas presented by Xi Jinping.
To reach Everland, it is advisable to forgo public transportation in favor of a taxi, as the journey takes just under 30 minutes and roughly costs ₩32,000 (approximately $40).