Summary
- La Cité de Carcassonne
- Château Comtal and Ramparts
- Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus
- Carcassonne Lower City
- Carcassonne Cathedral
- Lac de la Cavayère
- Musée des Beaux-Arts
- Châteaux de Lastours
- Canal du Midi – Barge Trip
- School Museum
- Museum of the Inquisition
- Caunes-Minervois
- Cuisine
- Wine
- Narbonne
The remarkable walls of Carcassonne’s citadel safeguarded the city for centuries and fell into a state of decay before undergoing comprehensive restoration by 19th-century architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc. Regardless of the historical accuracy of his work, they remain an architectural marvel, attracting visitors from far and wide.
Upon exploring every nook, passageway, and parapet, one can navigate the streets of this hilltop settlement or explore the less touristic Lower City for dining or shopping. Within minutes of Carcassonne, visitors can also access vineyards, wine caves, historic castles, and the tranquil green banks of the Canal du Midi.
Let us examine the most notable attractions in Carcassonne:
1. La Cité de Carcassonne
Initially, we will focus on what lies within the fortress walls. The streets within the citadel form a dreamlike environment of passageways and winding alleys reminiscent of Disney.
There is a pleasantly engaging lack of symmetry to the ancient stone structures, some adorned with exposed timbers while others are draped in ivy.
It requires considerable effort to resist capturing photographs of every scene encountered.
The optimal time for visiting is early, prior to the influx of tourists and at lunch time.
Most eateries and crêperies cater to day-visitors, and this intricate labyrinth is most appealing when relatively deserted.
2. Château Comtal and Ramparts
From both high and low vantage points, whether on the ramparts or within the fortifications, Carcassonne’s double line of defensive walls is an extraordinary sight.
The imposing walls and 52 towers justifiably capture the focus, stretching over three kilometers around the historic upper city.
Visitors can tour the Château Comtal; with an audio guide, you can expect to spend an enlightening two hours learning about the construction of the walls in the 15th century and the restorations undertaken in the 1800s by Viollet-le-Duc.
You may walk along the battlements, and during the summer, jousting exhibitions can be viewed between the walls, engaging for families.
3. Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus
This church was constructed over several centuries from the 800s to the 1300s. What makes it particularly notable is the harmonious coexistence of Romanesque and Gothic architectural styles.
The sense of balance is readily evident within the church’s interior, which remains untouched by Viollet-le-Duc, showcasing Romanesque sculpture, stonework, and stained glass windows side by side.
In the choir area, the elongated central stained glass window dates from 1280, making it one of the oldest outside northern France.
4. Carcassonne Lower City
Known as the Bastide de Saint-Louis, this section of Carcassonne was established outside the walls in the 13th century by Louis IX (Saint Louis). The ambience differs markedly from La Cité, characterized by a regular grid street plan, mainstream shops, and the standard French amenities, with nearly no tourists present.
Place Carnot serves as an ideal starting point for your exploration of this area, featuring outdoor restaurant seating and the centrally located Fountain of Neptune, erected in 1770.
5. Carcassonne Cathedral
Less renowned than the Basilica, the present cathedral in Carcassonne initially functioned as a simple parish church in the Lower City until the Episcopal seat transitioned at the turn of the 19th century.
Nonetheless, it is worthwhile to visit as it was constructed in the 13th century, representing a striking example of southern Gothic architecture complemented by an octagonal bell tower and an exquisite rose window.
The cathedral endured damage during the Hundred Years’ War, resulting in reconstruction with fortifications, evident from the loopholes in the tower.
Viollet-le-Duc was involved in restoration activities in the 1800s, marking his initial project in Carcassonne prior to his work on the fortifications.
6. Lac de la Cavayère
Situated twenty minutes by car or bus from the city is a lake formed by a dam established in 1988. It features 40 hectares of water and pine woodland, with three small beaches, grassy areas, and various children’s activities during summer: pedal boat rentals and mini-golf, with an inflatable playground on the lake for children.
Motorized crafts are prohibited on the waters, ensuring tranquility, while gentle walks can be enjoyed in the forested hills, along with family picnics at benches beneath the pines.
7. Musée des Beaux-Arts
Carcassonne’s fine art museum was established in 1836, and nearly 200 years and numerous donations later, it offers an enlightening journey through French art from the 1600s to the 1900s.
Among its eight galleries, one is dedicated to Flemish and Dutch art from the 1600s.
Among the recognizable names that even non-experts may identify are Brueghel the Elder, Mattia Preti, Jan van Goyen, Jacob Jordaens, and Gustave Courbet.
Room Five features a collection of 19th-century French ceramics, alongside a telescope utilized by Napoleon post his departure from Elba in 1815.
8. Châteaux de Lastours
The hills of the Aude department are dotted with the haunting remnants of medieval castles that were once the properties of noblemen loyal to the Cathar sect.
During the Albigensian Crusade, the sect faced violent suppression by the French Catholics, leading to the destruction of many of these strongholds.
The four castles in Lastours—Cabaret, Tour Régine, Quertinheux, and Surdespine—were plundered during the crusade and later transformed into fortresses.
These castles form a cohesive complex, yet each structure offers diverse features including courtyards, arcades, towers with loopholes, murder holes, spiral staircases, and the remnants of a church.
The location is breathtaking, perched atop a rocky spur in the Black Mountains.
The intricate details and surprises present a rewarding experience for an hour or two of exploration.
9. Canal du Midi – Barge Trip
The exceptional engineering feat of Pierre-Paul Riquet, the Canal du Midi was constructed in the 17th century to connect the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts.
This waterway runs through Carcassonne, just north of the Lower Town.
The segment between this city and the Mediterranean town of Sète is acclaimed as the most picturesque.
However, you need not travel that far; just outside Carcassonne, one can stroll east along the towpath for a few miles, as plane trees arch over the water, forming a serene green tunnel.
Guided boat tours are available with Carcassonne Cruises, highlighting the historic locks and bridges along the route.
10. School Museum
Located in a former school in the old city, this modest museum offers a glimpse into school life in France from the 1880s to the 1960s.
The museum features five rooms filled with period furniture and vintage educational artifacts, including desks, slates, blackboards, and lecterns.
The collection of antique projectors may evoke nostalgia, complemented by the schoolyard adorned with painted hopscotch and other playground games.
The museum also displays traditional dip pens, allowing visitors to experience how different education has become over the years.
11. Museum of the Inquisition
This attraction serves more for brief entertainment rather than serious inquiry, and children aged around 10 to 14 will likely find it amusing, though it may not be suitable for younger audiences.
Through the use of some rather grim mannequins, the museum illustrates the ingeniously harsh methods and instruments of torture utilized from medieval times up to the Revolution.
The focus is particularly on the Catholic inquisition of the Cathars during the 13th century, with most exhibits being reproductions.
12. Caunes-Minervois
Nestled at the base of the Black Mountains, the picturesque village of Caunes-Minervois lies twenty minutes north of Carcassonne.
The area is stunningly idyllic, characterized by rustic stone walls, Minervois vineyards, orchards, and olive groves.
This medieval village is centered around an abbey founded in the 700s, along with historic quarries that provided the pink marble used in the Louvre and Trianon Palace at Versailles.
The abbey is adorned with this stone; one of its admired features is the apse from the 1000s, exemplifying the understated Romanesque style.
13. Cuisine
For meat enthusiasts, particularly those partial to poultry and game, the culinary offerings of Carcassonne will be most satisfying.
Dishes featuring duck and goose confit are renowned specialties, as is the Spanish-style cured ham.
However, the most cherished dish in southwestern France is Cassoulet, a casserole comprising white haricot beans, sausage, and duck or goose confit.
Carcassonne presents its unique rendition of cassoulet, incorporating partridge meat into the concoction.
More adventurous eaters may opt for Languedoc-style snails, which are prepared in their shells with onions, ham, tomato, and parsley.
14. Wine
In Carcassonne, you find yourself at the heart of the world’s largest wine-growing region.
Additionally, you can easily access some of the finest AOCs within Languedoc.
Just minutes north and east lies Minervois, primarily recognized for its red wines produced from a blend of Bordeaux, Mediterranean, and Rhône grapes.
To the south of Carcassonne is the Limoux region, celebrated as the birthplace of sparkling wine, first produced in the 1500s.
Blanquette méthode ancestrale, Crémant de Limoux, and Blanquette de Limoux are sparkling white wines worth sampling.
Similar to champagne, the effervescence originates from secondary fermentation in the bottle, yet the taste is distinct with fresh, apple notes.
15. Narbonne
Narbonne, located east of Carcassonne, is accessible in approximately 45 minutes.
In Roman Gaul, “Narbo” functioned as a significant port on the Aude river; however, one of the city’s many misfortunes in subsequent centuries was the shifting course of the Aude, leading to the silting of the harbor.
The medieval centre is a delight, featuring unique monuments such as the unfinished cathedral.
This cathedral epitomizes the city’s fate during the Middle Ages, its construction halted due to an economic downturn in the 1300s, resulting in the absence of a nave.
Additionally, the Archbishop’s Palace, a gothic complex primarily from the 1400s, includes elements of the city wall as well as museums dedicated to Narbonne’s history and archaeology.