Top 15 Must-Do Activities in Alès, France

For much of its existence until the 1980s, Alès thrived due to the coal industry. The city’s tourism is deeply intertwined with this heritage, allowing visitors to explore a former mine and appreciate the array of minerals and precious stones displayed at the old mining school’s campus.

Alès is situated in a vast plain that is abruptly bordered by the magnificent granite peaks of the Cévennes National Park to the north and west. Consequently, the city serves as an advantageous base for hiking in the national park or visiting the castles, gardens, and various family-friendly attractions in the area.

Let us examine the most notable activities in Alès:

1. Musée-Bibliothèque Pierre-André-Benoit

In a modest western suburb of Alès lies a museum established by art publisher Pierre-André Benoit, who counted among his friends several of the era’s most celebrated artists.

The museum occupies a historic mansion formerly owned by colliery proprietors and may astonish visitors with its extensive collection of paintings, drawings, sculptures, and gouaches by renowned artists such as Braque, Picasso, Alechinsky, Picabia, and Miró.

A library within the museum houses over 400 vintage publications produced by Benoit for leading artists of the time.

Many will observe that several works are relatively small in size, reflecting Benoit’s preference for miniature gouaches and illustrations!

2. Mine Témoin d’Alès

The Cévennes region was a central hub for coal mining from the Middle Ages until the 1980s, when production ultimately ceased.

The peak of activity occurred in the late 1940s, contributing significantly to France’s post-war economic recovery. This particular mine, located on the outskirts of Alès, opened in 1945 and ceased operations in 1968. It served as an educational mine where apprentices aged 14 to 18 learned essential skills such as employing explosives and reinforcing mining galleries with wooden supports.

Upon exploring these tunnels, preserved in their original condition, you will gain a deeper comprehension of the responsibilities involved in this profession and an appreciation for the young individuals who faced dangers in this industry.

3. Le Musée Minéralogique

Located within the École des Mines, which transitioned from a mining college to an engineering university, is a comprehensive museum dedicated to minerals and rocks.

The collection, exceeding one million specimens sourced globally, is categorized into The World of Minerals, The World of Rock, and The World of Fossils.

Whether you are an amateur mineralogist, geologist, or paleontologist, this museum will serve as a treasure trove of information and potentially a delightful introduction for younger audiences to these scientific fields.

Among the mineral displays, do not miss the striking chalcedony geode found in Morocco.

4. Musée du Colombier

Situated within an 18th-century mansion that features a formal garden and a charming dovecote, this hidden gem of a museum is likely to provide a private viewing experience.

The Musée du Colombier integrates fine art with archaeology, offering more than sufficient material to stimulate intellectual curiosity.

Downstairs, visitors can find Roman ceramics, tombstones, mosaics, a sarcophagus, and a unique assortment of medieval door knockers.

The art gallery showcases two pieces by Breughel the Elder and the Holy Trinity Triptych by 16th-century Renaissance painter Jen Bellegambe.

5. Alès Cathedral

As is often the case, the 17th-century cathedral in Alès is built upon the site of a Carolingian church, which itself was erected over a Roman temple.

This structure is recognized as a French “monument historique” and has recently undergone extensive restoration, including the cleaning of the western tower and repainting the outer walls of the nave, alongside refurbishing the dome above the choir with lead.

The massive square bell tower at the entrance holds stonework dating back to the 1100s, with the pointed arch of the portal predating the rest of the structure.

6. Fort Vauban

Do not be misled by the name; the 17th-century fortress in Alès was not constructed by military architect Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban, but reflects his distinctive star-shaped design.

This citadel was built to accommodate a garrison tasked with suppressing the Protestant Huguenots following the French Wars of Religion in a region marked by substantial reformist sentiment.

Perched on a rocky elevation in the center of town, the fort’s lush gardens serve as a venue for outdoor theater performances during summer evenings.

7. La Colline de l’Hermitage

Cross the Gardon d’Alès from the Centre-Ville and on the river’s right bank, the terrain steepens significantly.

A hiking trail winds through lush deciduous forests to a hilltop featuring the Sanctuaire Notre-Dame-des-Mines, previously a shrine for the miners of the city.

This sanctuary is established on the foundations of an ancient Gallo-Roman fortified settlement.

It is a tranquil location suitable for reflection, prominently displaying a large statue of the Virgin Mary overlooking the mines.

Moreover, the hike is rewarding for nature enthusiasts and offers stunning views of Alès and the surrounding plain from the terrace.

8. Feria d’Alès

For four days in May, Alès hosts a vibrant traditional festival that caters to a diverse audience, featuring wine tastings, dancing, grand paellas, and parades showcasing the region’s famous white horses.

Nonetheless, it is important to acknowledge that bullfighting remains a core aspect of the celebration.

In the Gard region, fighting bulls have been cultivated and trained for centuries in the Carmargue to the south.

Depending on your perspective regarding this tradition, you can observe bull runs and a schedule of fights at the Arènes d’Alès near the river. Nevertheless, an array of local color, music, and culture will still abound regardless of one’s stance on bullfighting.

9. Château de Portes

Traveling north into the national park, you will arrive at a medieval castle nestled in the shadow of Mont Lozère in approximately 20 minutes.

This castle historically regulated traffic along the Chemin de Régordane, a pathway taken by pilgrims journeying to the Abbey of Saint-Gilles and the coast to join the Crusades.

While you may traverse this trail on the GR700, it is perhaps too late to join the Crusades.

What distinguishes this castle is its 49° sloped walls resembling the bow of a ship, earning it the label “un Vaisseau en Cévennes” (a vessel in Cévennes). A guided tour reveals how mining activities threatened the structure in the 20th century and details the relocation of the village down the valley, brick by brick, due to subsidence.

10. La Bambouseraie en Cévennes

Approximately ten kilometers from the city in Générargues, a vast exotic garden features an impressive bamboo plantation that spans 34 hectares, established in 1856. This botanical wonder was the life’s work of Eugène Mazel, a botany enthusiast who inherited wealth from an uncle who was a shipowner in Marseille.

He embarked on a journey to the East to procure mulberry trees for silk production (a significant component of Alès’ historical economy) and returned with an array of exotic species, including bamboo, magnolia, camellias, and sequoias.

On a warm day, nothing compares to a leisurely stroll through these refreshing bamboo groves. Furthermore, the garden hosts a hedge maze, village huts fashioned from Laos bamboo, vibrant water gardens adorned with lilies, and an enchanting Japanese garden.

11. Train à Vapeur des Cévennes

There is something enchanting about traveling through the countryside on a steam train, regardless of the carriage being filled with lively tourists.

The heritage railway operates from Anduze to Saint-Jean-du-Gard, winding through the stunning Cévennes National Park along the Gardon River’s rocky valley, crossing it multiple times to reveal picturesque vistas.

Once you arrive in Saint-Jean, take a leisurely stroll through the charming old streets, featuring ochre and pastel-colored houses framed by the lush wooded hills.

12. Uzès

Uzès offers a simple yet enriching option for a day trip, as it is a small town rich in historical significance.

A long lineage of nobility identified Uzès as “home,” spanning from the Middle Ages to the Revolution.

The prestige associated with the title Duke of Uzès was such that if the monarchy were to exist today, the duke would hold a legitimate claim to the throne, right behind the “Princes du Sang.” Following the elevation of the dukes’ status in 1565, Uzès became a hub for nobility, and its streets became adorned with stately townhouses that contribute to its distinguished character.

Acquire a detailed itinerary of “hôtels particuliers” from the tourist office and ascend to the Duché, the ducal palace situated at the summit of the town.

13. La Grotte de Trabuc

La Grotte de Trabuc invites exploration into a mesmerizing subterranean realm, characterized by waterfalls, lakes, and peculiar formations that are truly unique.

The Cent Mille Soldats (The Hundred Thousand Soldiers) comprises a multitude of stalagmite-like structures, elevating no more than a few centimeters.

Although technically not stalagmites since their formation was not due to water, the precise origin of these formations remains a mystery.

The tour lasts approximately 45 minutes and is conducted entirely in French; however, non-French speakers can grasp the key points using audioguides.

14. Bois de Païolive

You will need to travel a short distance north to reach the Bois de Païolive, where the effort will be rewarded as you step into this remarkable oak forest.

Traversing a network of divergent trails, you will enter a fantastical karst landscape filled with various stunning natural sculptures.

Each trail promises a surprise, whether it is large flat rock formations, miniature canyons, rock labyrinths, arches, or sizable boulders with intriguing names like l’Ours et le Lion (which resemble a bear and lion engaging in combat). It is easy to imagine how prehistoric peoples found inspiration in such a captivating landscape!

15. Les Halles de l’Abbaye

In a straightforward working town like Alès, the local covered market serves as a revelation, as it primarily caters to residents rather than tourists.

Les Halles de l’Abbaye is operational every morning from Monday to Saturday, housing 80 stalls featuring butchers, greengrocers, florists, bakers, patisseries, wine vendors, cheese merchants, and fishmongers, all sourcing their products from regional producers.

For those seeking local specialties, keep an eye out for tangy reinette du Vigan apples during winter and sweet onions from the Cévennes during August and September.

Other products including truffles, chestnuts, brown trout, Pélardon goats’ cheese, and porcini mushrooms can all be found within a short distance from the countryside to the market stalls.