Summary
In the 19th century, the Bohemian spa resort, Karlovy Vary, was a prominent destination. The polymath Johann Wolfgang von Goethe remarked that it was one of only three cities in the world in which he would have liked to reside.
Karlovy Vary was at the epitome of elegance, and the Old Town today exemplifies this timeless charm, enhanced with neo-Renaissance and Baroque promenades, colonnades, and hotels, as well as thermal springs.
It remains the most esteemed spa resort in the Czech Republic, a destination for luxurious relaxation that lies on the northern edge of the Slavkovský Les, a stunning expanse of forested highlands.
1. Mill Colonnade
There is no more appropriate starting point than this iconic structure, a dignified walkway with two aisles flanked by 124 columns in the heart of the old town. Here, the Spa Orchestra hosts complimentary concerts throughout the year, and five of Karlovy Vary’s thirteen hot springs are located along the colonnade.
Each spring is marked with a plaque that details the temperature and mineral content of the water, and the excellent aspect is that visitors can bring their own cup to sample the waters as they stroll.
Access is entirely free and open at any hour. If you forget to bring a cup, spa cups are available for purchase throughout the Old Town.
2. Spa Treatments
Karlovy Vary is abundant with day spas, hotels, and wellness centers, ensuring you can find the spa that meets your preferences and budget. Most visitors typically choose treatment programs of a week or longer.
Clients have been drawn to Karlovy Vary for the water’s therapeutic benefits since the 14th century, with the legend suggesting that Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV was the inaugural patient after discovering a spring during a hunting expedition.
The range of treatments available is extensive, with the most sought-after options including hydrotherapy, mineral water drinking cures, and ample fresh air.
3. Moser Museum
Karlovy Vary has long been a center of excellence for various trades, the most celebrated being glassmaking. In 1893, Ludwig Moser established his glass workshop here, which remains a significant benchmark for the craft today.
In the early 1900s, Moser was the official crystal supplier to the Emperor of Austro-Hungary, the Persian Shah, and the King of Great Britain. Visitors can explore the Moser Museum to learn about the entire process, from design to glassmaking, cutting, and engraving.
Additionally, extensive collections showcase items ranging from the earliest pieces to more contemporary items produced by the glassworks.
4. Hotel Thermal
This structure stands out distinctly from the rest of Karlovy Vary, and that uniqueness adds to its appeal. It is a ten-story tower block from the 1970s, a remnant of the Soviet era that contrasts sharply with the delicate architecture of the Old Town. Initially met with disapproval, it has been embraced as a landmark over time.
Hotel Thermal features the only public outdoor pool situated in the town center. In early July, the annual Karlovy Vary International Film Festival unfolds here, marking the region’s premier cinematic event, which celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2015.
Recent festival attendees have included notable figures such as Harvey Keitel, Helen Mirren, Michel Gondry, and Judi Dench.
5. Diana Tower Lookout
Reaching this viewpoint atop Friendship Hill relies on your adventurous spirit. If energetic, you may ascend along forest trails, with spring, early summer, and autumn being the most comfortable periods for this journey.
The alternative is to take the scenic funicular, departing from Karlovy Vary every 15 minutes, taking only three minutes to reach the summit. Constructed in 1914, the Diana Tower offers views extending up to 70 kilometers on clear days, free of charge (excluding January).
A restaurant and a mini-zoo accompany the tower, and visitors can also explore the beautiful woodlands in the vicinity.
6. Vrídlení Kolonáda
Vrídlo stands as the most recognized of Karlovy Vary’s hot springs. At 72 °C, it is the hottest and erupts from the ground with such vigor that it reaches a height of 12 meters, discharging 2,000 liters every minute.
This geyser is contained within Vrídlení Kolonáda, a functionalist structure from the 70s, alongside four other springs, all of which can be sampled at no charge. For first-time visitors, the taste of the water may be surprising, so it is advisable to proceed with caution!
Underground tours provide insights into the spa’s inner workings and the formation of the town’s famed aragonite crystals.
7. Jan Becher Museum
Karlovy Vary is the birthplace of another renowned Bohemian craftsman. Josef Becher was an early 19th-century pharmacist who invented his own medicinal tonics. Following his success, his son Johann expanded the business and began larger scale production of Becherovka.
Currently, Becherovka is the Czech Republic’s national liqueur. At the Jan Becher Museum, guests can view the original distillery and artifacts while learning about the brewing and storage processes of Becherovka.
Admission includes a tasting session, though newcomers should proceed with caution; the flavor profile can be quite unique! Visitors may also purchase a bottle from the museum shop as a memento.
8. Church of St. Mary Magdalene
Adjacent to the Vrídlení Kolonáda stands this magnificent church dating back to 1737, recognized as one of the country’s most treasured examples of high Baroque heritage. Visitors can tour the interior during the summer months, where they will encounter a stunning altarpiece, a Gothic statue of the Madonna, and Baroque Eucharist sculptures.
In the crypt, you can navigate the elaborate Baroque foundations, which include another altarpiece crafted from the aragonite that accumulates around Karlovy Vary’s thermal springs.
Notably, the church boasts exceptional acoustics, making it worthwhile to attend one of the regular concerts hosted here.
9. Grandhotel Pupp
Perched on a hillside with commanding views of Karlovy Vary, this grand 228-room hotel boasts a history spanning over 300 years. It derives its name from Johann Georg Pupp, a local confectioner who inherited the building through marriage.
During a prosperous century, his descendants expanded the hotel, and by the early 20th century, it exhibited the neo-Baroque design visible today.
Grandhotel Pupp epitomizes luxury in Karlovy Vary, attracting affluent guests from around the globe, and also served as a filming location for the 2006 James Bond film, Casino Royale.
10. Stará Louka
Recognized for its splendid promenades, Stará Louka emerges as the preferred esplanade in the city. This street, adorned with charming old townhouses along the north bank of the Tepla River, is among the city’s most photographed scenes, framed by the evergreen hills of Slavkovský Les.
Along the street, you will encounter a variety of boutiques, cafes, and restaurants. It is an ideal location for friends and families to enjoy a leisurely weekend stroll and relax at a riverside terrace for coffee.
Across the river lies Nova Louka, where the impressive Nezval Theatre is situated.
11. Church of St. Peter and Paul
With its five golden domes, this majestic Orthodox church cannot be overlooked, modeled after the Byzantine Church of the Holy Trinity in Moscow.
Dating back to 1897, it serves as unmistakable evidence of the strong Russian influence in Karlovy Vary, which persists today. The interior features priceless paintings, frescoes, and exquisite decorations.
The central feature is a relief of the Russian Tsar, Peter the Great. Many artistic works within the church were financed by affluent Russian patients seeking treatment in Karlovy Vary.
12. Exercise in the Hills
Karlovy Vary is interconnected by over 180 kilometers of color-coded trails that weave through the surrounding hills, perfect for walking and cycling.
Along these paths, you will encounter interesting sights, as they have been utilized for centuries, leading to the establishment of various lodges, viewing points, and rest areas.
The Charles IV Lookout, for instance, is a neo-Gothic tower erected in 1877, standing at an elevation of 514 meters above sea level, while the Deer Leap viewpoint provides beautiful panoramic vistas marked by the statue of a mountain goat perched atop a large rock adjacent to the platform.
13. Postal Court
Nestled in the hills south of the town, Postal Court originally served as a stable for postal horses but evolved into a staging post for tourists exploring the picturesque surroundings of Karlovy Vary.
Eventually, a restaurant emerged here, gaining prominence as a social hub for the spa’s affluent visitors and residents. Inside this neo-classical establishment, several ceremonial halls can be found, and the French-style grounds feature two striking pavilions.
The dance pavilion, complete with a covered terrace, is the highlight of the area.
14. Market Colonnade
The Market Colonnade, a beautifully carved white wooden structure, was initially intended as a temporary installation yet has withstood the test of time, standing for over 100 years. Designed by Viennese architects Fellner and Helmer, who were responsible for numerous spa buildings in Karlovy Vary, it features a splendid pillared arcade at the facade.
Within the Market Colonnade, two springs are located: The Market Spring and Charles IV Spring, with temperatures of 62 and 64 °C, respectively.
A relief inside the colonnade depicts the legendary discovery of Karlovy Vary by Charles IV in the 1300s.
15. Golf
True to its reputation as one of the region’s premier destinations for the affluent in the early 20th century, Karlovy Vary has welcomed golf enthusiasts for over a century, being home to the first golf courses in Bohemia.
Currently, three courses are located within a few minutes of Karlovy Vary, with an additional seven in the broader region. The oldest is the Golf Resort Karlovy Vary, a lavish 18-hole course nestled within upland forests.
Another local option is the Golf & Racing Club, where the course is integrated within the racing circuit that has existed since before the First World War.