Ultimate Guide to Sunrise Trekking Mount Agung in Bali

The Mount Agung hike ascends to the peak of the most prominent volcano on Bali, Indonesia, providing extraordinary sunrise vistas.

This demanding and exhilarating trek guides you up the sharp slopes of an active volcano, leading to a captivating view into the vast crater.

I recently undertook the Agung climb, and it stands out as one of the most challenging and exhilarating hikes I have encountered. There are two main routes available for traversing the volcano, each presenting unique challenges.

This article elucidates the approach to hiking the mountain with or without a tour guide, along with essential information prior to your ascent!

Quick Facts

• Distance: 8 kilometers (4 mi) return
• Elevation Gain: 1,500 meters (~5,000 ft)
• Top Elevation: 3,142 meters (10,308 ft)
• Duration: 8 – 12 hours return
• Difficulty: Hard

Where Is Mount Agung?

The Mount Agung volcano is situated in the Karangasem regency, located in the northeastern corner of Bali island.

It is approximately a 1.5-hour drive from Ubud or a 2-hour drive from Kuta, Canggu, and Sanur.

About The Mount Agung Volcano

Mount Agung (or Gunung Agung in Indonesian) is Bali’s highest peak and ranks among the top 100 prominent peaks globally at 3,142 meters. The term translates to ‘Great Mountain’.

The Balinese have long regarded Gunung Agung as the ‘navel of the world’, a belief that continues to hold significance today. A local guide will typically incorporate stops along the journey for offerings like Hindu incense and prayers.

Mountains are perceived by the Balinese as the dwelling of deities. In the past, ascents of Agung mandated the presence of a Hindu priest.

Mount Agung Eruption History

Mount Agung is an active volcano with a history of significant eruptions. The 1963 eruption was particularly disastrous, leading to the destruction of nearby villages and resulting in 2,000 casualties.

The most recent eruption occurred from 2017 to 2019, producing a towering 4-kilometer ash cloud that disrupted life on the island. Over 100,000 individuals in Karangasem were evacuated, while numerous flights catering to tourists were canceled or rerouted.

Currently, the Indonesian government closely monitors any volcanic activity signs at Agung, leading to temporary closures for hikers during tremors.

Mount Agung Safety

It is essential to acknowledge that climbing Agung carries inherent risks due to its active nature.

However, catastrophic eruptions are generally separated by several decades following a lengthy pressure accumulation, and most years witness minimal volcanic activity.

Personally, I found the level of risk acceptable, and I would be keen to experience Agung again in the future. Nonetheless, it is crucial to understand one’s limitations; this hike demands considerable physical ability.

Over the years, there have been at least half a dozen fatalities attributed to falls during the Mount Agung hike, including two in 2024.

These incidents typically involved hikers lacking adequate fitness, unfavorable weather conditions, or navigating the terrain without a guide.

Is Mount Agung Open? Current Alert Status

As of 2024, Mount Agung holds a Level 1 alert status (‘normal’) as per the Indonesian government’s volcanological survey.

This signifies the lowest risk category, indicating that the mountain is once again open to hikers. There are currently no restrictions in place for climbing, though it is wise to confirm the alert status prior to your visit.

It is also significant to note that Mount Agung is off-limits to hikers during specific periods of the year due to Hindu ceremonies, including Ida Bhatara Turun Kabeh (IBTK) and Tawur Labuh Gentuh.

In 2024, these ceremony dates fall from March 17 to April 14 and from October 1 to November 30, during which the mountain will be entirely closed for hiking.

Mount Agung Hike: What To Expect

Sunrise Trekking

Many individuals opt to undertake the Mount Agung hike overnight to reach the summit for sunrise. One of the primary advantages of this approach is the typically clearer conditions during early morning hours compared to daytime when the volcano is often shrouded in clouds.

Sunrise tours for Mount Agung begin with a very early pickup, often around 11 PM, allowing your guide to transport you to the trailhead for your ascent ahead of sunrise.

As a result, you will be operating on very little sleep, which exacerbates the overall difficulty of the trek. Have you ever attempted to stay awake all night while traversing an extremely steep, rocky volcano in darkness? Chances are, it’s a rare experience.

The Mount Batur sunrise hike serves as an excellent preparatory challenge since the terrain and mechanics are similar, albeit Mount Batur is considerably shorter and less arduous than Agung.

The Mount Agung trek can be subdivided into three phases:

• Part 1 — A dirt path meanders through fern trees, pines, and various vegetation. The absence of switchbacks makes this entire section uphill and strenuous, yet it represents the easiest phase of the hike.
• Part 2 — Upon exiting the treeline, you will navigate through boulders, scree, dirt, and dust as the trail gradually steepens. This segment constitutes the longest leg of the trek and can feel interminable.
• Part 3 — Scrambling the remaining part of the mountain on all fours. This marks the most challenging segment of the Mount Agung trek, with certain areas being perilously steep. A reliable headlamp and a guide are vital at this stage.

My spouse, with admirable resolve, withdrew shortly after we cleared the treeline due to exhaustion, the path’s increasing treachery, and the unfavorable wind conditions that day in late August. We opted to retain the guide with her for safety while I ascended towards the summit alone in the dark.

My headlamp’s inadequacy and the urgency brought on by the time crunch for sunrise heightened the stakes. A vivid memory remains of that moment: clinging to the steep side of the volcano, half-asleep and wearied, as the sky shifted to orange, revealing my elevation above the clouds.

It was an immensely poignant moment.

Ahead lies the vast, smoking 900-meter-wide crater of Agung, with the opportunity to gaze directly down into it from the crater rim.

Exercise caution in your steps, as space is limited at the summit, and there have been incidents of individuals falling into the crater. One certainly would not wish to become an offering to the gods.

The vistas from the summit are extraordinary. To the east and west, you can behold the distant peaks of Mount Rinjani and Mount Abang, alongside the expansive Batur caldera in Kintamani. To the south, views extend all the way to Kuta.

The allure of the Mount Agung hike is magnified by its challenge and the gratifying sense of accomplishment upon reaching the summit.

How Hard Is It?

The Mount Agung hike is exceptionally demanding. In comparison, Mount Batur appears considerably easier. The Agung hike presents multiple layers of difficulty compared to Batur.

While expertise in mountaineering is not a prerequisite, physical fitness alone is insufficient; determination is equally crucial. Depending on the chosen trail (as detailed below), the hike could extend up to 12 hours roundtrip, with an elevation gain reaching up to 2,150 meters (7,000 feet). Such metrics are staggering.

The concluding section of the hike is steep, and you might find yourself ascending nearly vertically in darkness. There were moments when I contemplated retreating, a sentiment I am not accustomed to feeling.

For context, I have scaled nearly a dozen ‘14ers’ in Colorado, traversed Hawaii’s notorious Stairway To Heaven, completed the Kalalau Trail, tackled Half Dome, and other esteemed challenging hikes; nonetheless, Agung remains one of the most formidable experiences in my accumulation of adventures.

Post-hike, we indulged in two meals each, collapsed at our hotel in Amed, and remained unconscious for a full 16 hours. It was difficult for us to walk for several days thereafter.

Hiking Route – Besakih Temple vs. Pura Pasar Agung

Two main routes exist for trekking Agung. One initiates at the renowned Besakih Temple, and the other commences from the smaller Pura Pasar Agung:

• Besakih Route. This route is the longest, with a significant elevation gain of 2,150 meters (7,000 feet) and a trekking duration of 12 hours roundtrip. It leads to the true summit of Mount Agung at 3,142 meters (10,308 ft).
• Pasar Agung Route. This shorter, commonly taken path features an elevation gain of 1,500 meters (5,000 feet), with an 8-hour roundtrip duration. This route does not culminate at the true summit, instead arriving at a false summit on the southern crater rim at 3,031 meters (9,944 ft).

Both pathways present significant challenges. While the Pasar Agung route offers superior views of the volcano’s inner crater, the Besakih route concludes at a lofty ridge that provides stunning panoramic vistas of the surrounding landscape.

Previously, it was feasible to access the final summit from the Pasar Agung route via a side path connecting to the Besakih trail midway, but this path was reportedly compromised during the 2017 eruption.

What To Bring

• Jacket: Bring two additional layers for Mount Agung. While you may not require them for most of the trek, conditions at the summit can be quite windy and chilly prior to sunrise.
• Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots with reliable grip are essential, as you will be traversing slippery gravel and steep inclines or declines.
• Poncho: The weather can shift unexpectedly on the mountain; therefore, consider bringing a rain jacket as a precaution.
• Water: It is advisable to carry at least 2 liters per person, given the significant elevation gain and mild altitude sickness encountered near the summit, which causes accelerated dehydration.
• Snacks: Energy bars are practical for those moments when every additional step feels rigorous.
• Headlamp: This is absolutely necessary for navigating safely in the dark. While sunrise trekking tours may provide basic lamps, an efficient personal headlamp is highly recommended.
• Camera: Don’t forget! Drone photography here is magnificent too, provided you can manage the extra weight. You can see some drone footage in this video.

Best Time To Trek

Theoretically, the Mount Agung hike can be undertaken year-round; however, given the intensity of the hike, rain would render it precarious and unmanageable.

The ideal trekking months are unequivocally from April to October, as conditions tend to be drier, with optimal mountain visibility.

In my view, nighttime is the most favorable period for the Agung hike, as it enables clearer visibility and a spectacular sunrise upon your arrival at the summit. Nevertheless, daytime hikes are an alternative for those inclined.

Some adventurers even opt for a two-day trek via the Besakih route, camping overnight on the mountain.

Mount Agung Tour Guide / Mafia Requirement

Similarly to Mount Batur, there exists a local trekking collective (mafia) that prohibits climbers from ascending Agung without hiring a local Bali tour guide.

On this occasion, engaging a guide makes logical sense for both safety and navigation. The Mount Agung trek contains numerous steep sections where falls may lead to serious injury or fatalities, particularly in the dark; therefore, having a guide to navigate the easiest paths is beneficial.

There were no observable ‘guards’ enforcing the escort requirement during my visit, though individual experiences may differ.

A noticeable trend among Russian hikers is attempting to scale Mount Agung unaided, resulting in numerous injuries, disappearances, and even fatalities, with instances occurring as recently as 2024 here.

Engaging a local guide is the most prudent course of action when faced with such circumstances.

Mount Agung Without Guide – Directions

For those inclined to undertake the Mount Agung hike independently, locating the trailhead at nighttime presents the first challenge. Adhere carefully to the directions provided below.

Park your vehicle at Pura Pasar Agung and proceed up the concrete steps until reaching the temple’s main gate, depicted as the pointed Balinese gate shown earlier.

Upon reaching the gate, do not enter; instead, veer left and traverse the perimeter of the temple. Descend a small flight of stairs, proceeding across the flat concrete area near the temple’s side.

At the treeline’s edge, you will observe a narrow path leading into the jungle. Follow this path upwards until you finally break free from the treeline hours later, close to the mountain’s apex.

Once above the treeline, the path may become less distinct. Some boulders are marked with white spray-painted arrows and phrases in Indonesian, yet these can prove nearly invisible in darkness.

My best piece of guidance for the scrambling portion is to invariably bear right at any junction on the path. To access the crater rim, it is necessary to traverse a trough, climbing atop the rocks on the right side.

Yet again, I strongly advise against embarking on the Mount Agung hike without an experienced guide.

Where To Stay

Accommodations in proximity to the Mount Agung trailhead are limited, necessitating a base in other regions of Bali.

Nearby locations for accommodation include Sidemen, Candidasa, Amed, or Kintamani. Although it is feasible to approach this hike from more tourist-oriented areas like Ubud or Kuta, the travel time will be slightly longer.

Personally, I prefer Amed for its tranquil atmosphere post-hike and its spectacular views of the Agung volcano from the beachfront.

Wishing you safe travels!