Experience the Canal du Midi: A Complete Guide to Barging in Southern France

We have long envisioned navigating a barge through the scenic canals of the southern region of France. An early inspiration stemmed from a travel publication that chronicled a couple’s journey barging their way across Europe, which subsequently secured a position on my bucket list. Following our opportunity to pilot our own houseboat on the Rideau Canal in Canada last summer, we enthusiastically included Europe in our upcoming travel plans. Thus, when Le Boat extended an invitation to independently navigate a vessel along the Canal du Midi this summer, we eagerly accepted.

Cruise the Canal du Midi Tips and Advice

Having previously embarked on two Le Boat cruises in Canada, we approached the Le Boat headquarters in Homps, located 90 minutes south of Toulouse, with a sense of confidence. After swiftly completing the 40-minute introductory session, we set off on our six-day voyage down the renowned canal.

No prior boating experience is required to operate a Le Boat houseboat. Upon arrival at the marina, a representative will guide you through the boat’s controls and provide instructions on how to navigate it. The vessel’s speed is limited to a maximum of 10 km per hour, and robust bumpers are in place to prevent collisions with the canal’s edges.

Summer Savings with Le Boat

• 2025 Early Booking Offer – Save up to 25%: Le Boat offers an Early Booking discount allowing patrons to save up to 25% on budget, comfort, and Comfort Plus boat rentals across Europe. A 15% discount is available on Le Boat’s Horizon Fleet for travel in Canada, France, Holland, Belgium, and Germany. Secure this offer by September 1, 2024, with only a 25% deposit required at the time of reservation.
• Le Boat’s 2025 Lowest Price Guarantee: Reserve your 2025 vacation rental confidently. Should prices decline post-booking, Le Boat will refund the difference, sustaining the lowest price guarantee up to 90 days prior to departure. For more details on Early Booking offers for the 2025 season, visit https://www.leboat.ca/en/new-season or contact 1-800-734-5491.

Hire A Captain with Le Boat

To simplify boating for novice cruisers, Le Boat—the premier provider of private boating vacations in Europe and Canada—has initiated its innovative Skipper for Hire program.

This service, available along the idyllic Canal du Midi in France starting in the 2025 season and priced at just US$199 per day, allows travelers to engage an experienced Le Boat skipper for their first journey. On the initial full day of the voyage, the designated skipper delivers practical training on boat operation, navigation techniques, and proper maneuvering through locks. This customized support fosters independence and confidence, enabling guests to navigate autonomously for the remainder of the trip.

For additional information regarding Le Boat’s Skipper for Hire initiative, please visit https://www.leboat.ca/en/new-season or call 1-800-734-5491.

Transfer from Toulouse to Homps

Le Boat’s Canal du Midi headquarters are conveniently situated in Homps, a mere 90-minute drive from the airport. Le Boat coordinates transfers and airport pickups to transport you from Toulouse to Homps with convenience.

My brother and sister-in-law joined us for this excursion. After spending two days in Toulouse, we returned to the airport to meet them, leading to our transfer to the embarkation point.

Homps, France

Homps serves as the departure point for Le Boat Vacations along the canal, and we advise spending at least a day here to gather all necessary arrangements for your cruise. Numerous dining establishments line the canal, complemented by several hotels and rental apartments. Having catered to Canal du Midi barges for years, Homps emerges as an ideal location for dining, shopping for provisions, and unwinding.

After our private transfer from the Toulouse airport, we arrived at the charming Jardin d’Homps BnB, situated in the village only a brief walk from the Canal du Midi. This delightful property is nestled within a serene, tree-adorned courtyard, featuring a swimming pool, terrace, and a delectable breakfast.

We proceeded to our inaugural dinner on this historic waterway at En Bonne Compagnie. This welcoming tavern boasted a terrific ambiance, paired with exceptional service and cuisine. It was a delightful commencement to our journey. More leisurely days could have certainly been spent in this tranquil town. As one English resident who acquired property here remarked, “It’s like Tuscany without the crowds.” Having enjoyed a canal tour in earlier years, they were captivated enough to relocate here! Nevertheless, we had only a day before we embarked on our sailing adventure.

Preparing for a Canal du Midi Cruise

A grocery store located in town allows you to stock up on food and beverages. Our guesthouse proprietor advised us that options for dining in the upcoming days would be limited, prompting us to gather all needed supplies now.

The owner kindly transported our luggage and provisions to the Le Boat check-in office, enabling us to find a shaded area while waiting for our check-in and departure.

One significant piece of advice is to ensure you have ample supplies of water. The southern region of France often bears witness to extreme summer heat, with temperatures reaching 42 degrees Celsius (107 F) during our visit. Staying adequately hydrated is essential, especially since our Vision 3 boat was equipped with a full-size refrigerator, offering plenty of space for cooling our beverages.

We ordered a picnic package, which provided essential items for our trip’s outset. This package includes necessities such as coffee, milk, sugar, butter, bread, salt, olive oil, a few bottles of water, juice, soda, and local beverages. Snacks like chips, nuts, biscuits, and croissants are also included. We highly recommend this option, ensuring you have adequate supplies for the first couple of days.

Below are essential packing tips for cruising the Canal du Midi.

Our Route on the Canal du Midi

Our route along the Canal du Midi encompassed travel from Homps to Castlenaudry.

Day one constituted a brief day of cruising. After completing our check-in, unpacking, and undergoing a walkthrough and lesson regarding our boat, we navigated for merely a couple of hours to reach Puicheric.

Upon docking, we were grateful for our prior shopping in Homps as the town was somewhat distant. Although we had two bicycles available, coinciding with our party of four, we decided to unwind and prepare dinner on the deck, utilizing the barbecue while enjoying wines from the South of France as the sun set.

Our itinerary included six days to journey from Homps to Castlenaudry, which proved ample time. Our planned stops were as follows:

1. Homps
2. Puicheric
3. Trebes
4. Carcassonne
5. Prexoria
6. Castlenaudrey

We recommend allocating two nights in Carcassonne, given that it is the largest city and hosts the most attractions. Castlenaudrey offers numerous amenities as well; from there, one can catch the train back to Toulouse post-Le Boat without incurring transfer costs.

Activities on the Canal du Midi

We had anticipated making stops at vineyards and olive groves during our journey along the Canal; however, this did not come to fruition. While we had hoped to partake in sightseeing and exploration, it soon became apparent that the smaller villages along the canal offered limited attractions or activities. When organizing your visit, be mindful of the potential stops.

Beyond the towns of Carcassonne and Castlenaudrey, options for activities were sparse. Should you seek attractions and excursions, this is not the journey for you. The primary allure is the experience of being on the boat.

For our route, if excursions are a priority, we recommend spending two days in Carcassonne and planning additional activities accordingly. Regrettably, we were unable to arrange wine tours, sightseeing, or taxis while on our boat and wished we had invested two nights in Homps followed by two nights in Carcassonne.

About the Locks and the Canal du Midi

Referring back to our Le Boat experience on the Rideau Canal in Canada, one finds that cruising in Canadian canals is exceptionally relaxing thanks to Parks Canada’s management of the locks. Navigating the Canal du Midi involves significantly more effort. The Rideau Canal provides efficiency with lines inside the locks that ascend and descend with the water, allowing for easy looping of ropes from the boat.

Conversely, while traversing the Canal du Midi locks, one individual must disembark at each lock to handle the ropes and secure them to the cleats at the top of the lock. Consequently, you must moor above the lock to allow that person to disembark before proceeding through, rendering this process notably more time-consuming compared to the Rideau Canal.

Do You Open and Close the Locks on the Canal du Midi?

Prior to embarking on the Canal du Midi, we had been informed that we would need to manually operate the locks. However, this was not required on our journey from Homps to Castlenaudry. A lockkeeper is present at most locks to operate the controls, allowing you to focus on handling the ropes while the captain navigates the vessel in. Additionally, one person should stabilize the front and back of the boat by managing the ropes.

Nevertheless, there was one section of the canal leading into Castlenaudry where we had to operate the opening and closing mechanisms of the locks ourselves. These locks are automated, requiring only a button press and adherence to instructions.

A vital consideration for this section is the distance between locks, averaging about 1km apart, leading to extensive activities involving lock passages. Instead of having the captain halt each time to drop one of us off at every lock, the individual managing the locks cycled ahead to prepare for the boat’s entry.

Observing the boat’s approach, I pressed the green button to open the gates, streamlining the entire process.

Once the gates opened, Dave steered the boat in, while Jim and Janice passed me their ropes for securing them to the cleats. After pushing the button to close the gates and fill the locks, they maintained hold on the ropes to secure the boat, with the automated gates opening upon reaching capacity. I then proceeded to maneuver ahead to open the subsequent lock.

Thus, an essential tip for this segment of the trip is to ensure a bicycle is aboard.

Bicycle Rentals

If bicycle rentals were not arranged through Le Boat, you will either need to walk ahead during that section or rely on the captain for drop-offs before each lock. We highly recommend renting at least one bike. Given that several mooring areas may be situated away from towns or grocery stores, having a bike can be significantly beneficial.

At times, bicycles will be essential for procuring additional food as stores can be quite a distance from the vessel. While dining establishments and bars are typically within walking distance from docks in Homps, Trebes, Carcasonne, and Castlenaudry, there will be instances when you may find yourself a few kilometers away from the town. Furthermore, cycling paths run parallel to the Canal du Midi, offering the possibility to explore when arriving at docks early.

On Board Grocery Pack

As previously mentioned, we strongly advise ordering the grocery package to facilitate your initial days on the boat. While additional shopping will be necessary, this option provides crucial items such as coffee, milk, butter, jam, olive oil, sugar, and salt and pepper.

This package also comprises local wine, beer, lemonade, soda, and snacks such as croissants, bread, biscuits, and chips. We utilized nearly everything, including aluminum foil, which proved useful for barbecuing. Ensure to make grocery pack orders a week in advance for timely delivery upon arrival.

Shopping List

Your purchasing decisions are ultimately at your discretion. Numerous options exist for dining out; however, ensuring sufficient food onboard for at least the first night is advisable. We recommend preparing meals in advance and determining how frequently you wish to dine on the boat. Given that leftovers cannot be transported away, having a clear outline of each meal will aid in procuring meats, cheeses, pastries, and dinner solutions throughout your journey.

Packing Essentials for Le Boat on the Canal du Midi

Cruising the Canal du Midi typically occurs during the summer months in the South of France, necessitating appropriate attire for warm weather. Standard summer wear such as shorts and t-shirts is suitable; however, a specific requirement for Le Boat travelers is to pack work gloves for managing the locks. The ropes can inflict significant hand injuries, coupled with the frequent presence of moisture on them. We utilized gloves, although waterproof work gloves would likely prove more effective. See these on Amazon.

It is essential to understand that the Canal du Midi is not optimally clean; vessels are permitted (in fact, encouraged) to release their waste directly into the canal while in transit. Numerous boaters have been observed discharging black water even while docked, with unpleasant odors permeating our cabins. Since you will be handling ropes that frequently touch the water, it is imperative to don gloves while tying up and managing lines, and practice frequent handwashing.

Additionally, a sun umbrella would have been advantageous since we were unable to extend our boat canopy due to low bridges spaced every few hundred meters. Sun hats are essential; however, swimming in the Canal du Midi is prohibited, thus bathing suits are unnecessary. This umbrella would have greatly enhanced our experience while at the captain’s station.

Sunglasses and binoculars are also advisable. Le Boat provided binoculars in both Ireland and Canada; however, as the waterways consist primarily of narrow, straight canals, their necessity was minimal on the Canal du Midi. Nonetheless, the opportunity to observe the passing landscape more closely is always welcome.

Furthermore, I highly recommend bringing a selection of board games or playing cards for evening entertainment, as well as portable speakers for music enjoyment.

Portable fan – I possess a handheld USB-operated fan that proved immensely helpful during periods of excessive heat. Having a thyroid condition complicates my body’s temperature regulation, thus making such tools invaluable during notably hot conditions on the Canal du Midi.

Choose Your Boat Wisely

Le Boat provides a variety of boat styles. If your budget permits, we advocate for choosing either the Horizon Lines or Premier boats due to their superior quality and performance. We piloted the Horizon fleet in Canada and Ireland, which stand out as top-tier options.

On the Canal du Midi, we utilized a Vision 3 comfort boat, which did not handle as adeptly as the Horizon models. Expect certain issues with older boats, as our air conditioning failed, necessitating the provision of a portable unit, and we encountered a battery malfunction requiring a boat swap mid-journey.

Le Boat maintains emergency contact numbers and deploys technicians swiftly should problems arise, ensuring your journey is uninterrupted and secure. Their commitment to assistance is paramount.

For inexperienced boaters, the Horizon Line model emerges as an ideal option, and we strongly recommend it if budget constraints allow. The Horizon 3 and 4 vessels exhibit exceptional maneuverability, with powerful thrusters equipped for swift stopping to avert collisions.

By contrast, our Vision 3 boat in France required an entire boat length to come to a halt, and its thrusters lacked the same level of strength, necessitating more skillful navigation.

This is notably crucial given the winds present on the Canal du Midi. Despite our ample experience at this stage, we observed individuals struggling with dock maneuvers, hitting other vessels, and losing control while attempting to moor. The advanced models reduce such occurrences; hence, if boating experience is limited, we recommend sticking to these newer and higher-end options.

Extremely Low Bridges on the Canal

Take caution, as numerous low and narrow bridges adorn the Canal du Midi. Our selection of a sizable three-bedroom boat felt nearly unwieldy at times. Should you lack confidence in navigating through tight passages, consider opting for a smaller vessel. Le Boat accommodates various sizes catering to differing comfort levels, with options suitable for just two passengers.

Passing under the low bridges can be exciting; however, it becomes laborious. We could not deploy our canopy to seek relief from the scorching sun, necessitating that we duck with each bridge approach to avoid injury (significant reminders were often shared among companions), coupled with a continuing concern regarding side impacts.

About Barging the Canal du Midi

Exploring the Canal du Midi remains a prominent aspiration for many individuals. Although we appreciated our journey, we felt that Canada’s Rideau Canal better suited our preferences. In Canada (and Ireland—further updates on that cruise forthcoming), we relished the expansive waters and reduced lock frequency, contrasting the narrow channels and multitude of locks found along the Canal du Midi.

Nonetheless, my sister-in-law took great pleasure in the lock passages, declaring her favorite aspect to be the experience itself.

As captain, Dave found frequent stops for other boats somewhat stressful, while I viewed disembarking numerous times throughout the day as a chore. I would have preferred to remain onboard, relishing the picturesque vistas. However, for those who appreciate active participation in their travels, the Canal du Midi offers rich engagement.

Participating in the Canal du Midi provides an opportunity to explore the less-traveled locations of France. It transports participants back in time, promoting a leisurely pace aligned with personal preferences. As one individual aptly noted, “The Canal du Midi is the perfect place to think more and hurry less.” This sentiment resonated deeply with us.