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Nov 22, 2023 • 5 min read
Introduction
Situated in the heart of central Italy, Umbria showcases a wealth of dense forests, undulating hills, historic towns, and an impressive array of gastronomic offerings.
The distinctive terroir produces specialties including cured meats, earthy truffles, rich olive oils, and robust wines—delicacies that satisfy the discerning palate of travelers. Herein lies our guide to the finest culinary experiences the region has in store:
Smoked and Roasted
Commence your exploration in the southeastern corner of Umbria within the historic walled city of Norcia, located in Monti Sibillini National Park. For centuries, the local norcini, or pork butchers, have been renowned for their exceptional cured meats, salumi, and sausages. Owing to the abundant oak forests in this region, local pigs enjoy a diet enriched with acorns and natural herbs, imparting distinctive flavors to their meat.
The terrain surrounding Norcia is also inhabited by wild boar, which are sustainably hunted and featured in regional culinary offerings. While in Norcia, it is advisable to seek out a norcineria, specialty butchers renowned for creating the pork products that have earned the area its reputation. Notable dishes to sample include porchetta, a roasted pork entrée, and pasta alla norcina, which features a rich sausage and cream sauce.
Lentils and Truffles
From Norcia, venture to the adjacent plains of Castelluccio in the Apennine Mountains, famous for its lentils. These small, tender lentils thrive at elevations near 5,000 feet (1,500m). The significance of this crop is underscored by its IGP designation, highlighting its protected geographical origin. In June, the plains burst into color as wildflowers bloom alongside the lentil fields; harvesting occurs in July. Seek out dishes featuring these lentils, transformed into rich, nutty soups often enhanced by local pork.
Umbria’s forests also serve as fertile grounds for the prolific growth of truffles throughout the year. Scorzone truffles can be sourced during the summer months, whereas the more elusive white truffles appear in the winter, particularly in the vicinity of Città di Castello. From Castelluccio, journey westward towards Spoleto and Terni, where an abundance of these exquisite fungi can be discovered. For a hands-on experience, consider joining a knowledgeable truffle hunter along with their trained dogs in search of these culinary treasures. Truffles feature widely on menus across Umbria—whether shaved over pasta or eggs, incorporated into risottos, sauces, or enhancing the flavor profiles of salumi, cheese, and olive oil.
A Cornucopia of Produce
Moving beyond the truffle-rich landscape, proceed north to the highlands between Spoleto and Assisi, where the principal olive oil production area in Umbria is located. The art of olive oil production in Umbria has historical roots dating back to the Etruscans and Romans, with Trevi recognized as the region’s olive oil capital.
Trevi lies at the center of the Sentiero degli Ulivi, or olive trail, a 45-mile (75km) pathway that traverses through the olive groves, linking the key towns of the region. In Trevi, visitors can explore the Museo della Civiltà dell’Ulivo, a museum dedicated to the history of olive oil production in the area, and, located on the outskirts of the city, stop by an olive oil mill (frantoio) to witness production and sample the local delicacies (season permitting).
Also, in local markets or featured on restaurant menus, you may encounter two particularly notable vegetables. One is a unique variety of celery known as sedano nero di Trevi, or “black celery,” distinguished by its dark stems and leaves. A small number of dedicated growers cultivate this varietal, which is recognized by the Slow Food Presidium, an organization devoted to preserving native foods and traditional agricultural practices. This regional delicacy is often prepared as black celery parmigiana, served hot from the oven with cheese and a meat sauce.
Moreover, the region is renowned for its Cannara onions, cultivated in nutrient-rich clay soil, celebrated for their sweetness and tenderness. Generations of onion farmers, referred to as cipollari, uphold the tradition of this vital agricultural product. Celebratory festivals coincide with the harvest of both Cannara onions and black celery—the former in mid-September and the latter in mid-October—with stalls providing a feast for the senses.
Savor the Vintages
No culinary itinerary through Umbria would be thorough without a visit to some of the region’s most esteemed wine-producing territories. A brief drive from Trevi leads you to Montefalco, an ancient hilltop town encircled by vineyards. Montefalco is particularly esteemed for its production of Sagrantino, a robust red wine that has attained the DOCG designation, a mark of excellence denoting the highest quality wines in Italy and assurance of their geographical origin.
Proceeding further west, one arrives at the wine-producing territory surrounding Orvieto, which accounts for the majority of Umbria’s wine output and is especially acclaimed for its white varieties. The landscape surrounding Orvieto contains volcanic tufo rock, creating a distinctive terroir for the region’s wines. Caves excavated in the tufo stone have served as optimal locations for aging and storing wines since Etruscan times, with select vineyards continuing to utilize these historic caverns today. Numerous vineyards in Montefalco and Orvieto welcome visitors, offering tours and tastings.
For additional exceptional vintages, explore the fortified medieval village of Torigiano, known for its wines that were among the first in Italy to receive the DOC designation, as well as the scenic Colli del Trasimeno located along the shores of its namesake lake.
Delicacies from the Water
Concluding our culinary exploration, travel north to the vicinity of Lago Trasimeno, the fourth-largest lake in Italy. Unique as the only landlocked region in central Italy, Umbria has relied on this lake for centuries, which provides various fresh-water fish, broadening the local culinary landscape. A cooperative of over 50 fishermen engages in sustainable fishing practices, capturing carp, pike, bass, perch, and eel. These fish transform into delectable dishes, such as carpa regina in porchetta, a roasted carp specialty, or tegamaccio, a traditional fish stew prepared in an earthenware pot.
The deeply entrenched culinary practices of Umbria mirror the region’s stunning natural scenery. The residents take immense pride in their local ingredients, celebrating unique flavors in traditional dishes exclusive to the region as well as festivals that honor local producers and their bountiful harvests. A journey through Umbria bestows visitors with an introduction to the vast array of delectable flavors that this region has to offer.
Sponsored by Regione Umbria
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