Summary
French author Julien Marsault recently embarked on an off-season journey along the Brittany coast in northwestern France. This article outlines his experiences during a gentle road trip filled with opportunities for wildlife observation, exceptional seafood, and rejuvenating coastal walks.
Being a freelancer poses unique challenges. In late September, I found the need for a short respite. As my partner was unable to take an extended leave for overseas travel, we opted for a brief three-day, two-night excursion in our local region, aiming to explore more of the area we have inhabited for nearly two years. Our objectives included engaging with nature, enjoying gourmet cuisine, and embracing the tranquility of the Breton coast.
Where did you stay? What was the vibe?
We spent one night in the small harbor town of Paimpol, following a delightful afternoon spent visiting one of the most picturesque locations in the region, Bréhat, often referred to as the ‘Island of Flowers.’ Although spring was a distant memory, this place beautifully harmonized tranquility and splendid scenery. It brought to mind the Scottish landscape, with its erratic weather, serene harbors, and sandy beaches contrasting with striking red cliffs. Traveling during the off-season provided us with the advantage of quiet walking paths and the opportunity to savor a warm cup of coffee in nearly deserted village squares.
The following day, we took an hour-long drive to Perros-Guirrec, where we would spend the night. Our morning included a leisurely stroll along the magnificent pink rocks of Ploumanac’h beach, culminating in lunch at a local Breton eatery known as Crêperie des Flots.
Favorite activity from the trip?
The highlight of our journey was a boat tour of the Sept Îles archipelago (€50 for two). Despite overcast skies, we embarked on a nearly three-hour maritime exploration of the habitat of Northern Gannets, recognized as “Les fous de bassan” – a bird species celebrated for its remarkable fishing techniques. This nature reserve is truly awe-inspiring, and if fortune favors you, you might even behold a seal leisurely lounging upon a rock.
Best thing you ate?
Following our visit to the Sept Îles archipelago, we dined at Le Bleu Marin, a charming seafood establishment located in Perros-Guirrec. It is difficult for me to resist indulging in the richness and excellence of Breton seafood during such excursions. After locating this delightful spot through extensive Google Maps research, reserving a table for two was efficient, and the service was exceptional (again, the benefits of off-season travel). We savored an exquisite assortment of shrimp, crabs, oysters, and, most significantly, a delightful bottle of crisp white wine to culminate the day in style (€60-70 for two).
What is the one thing that you did not expect?
It may appear trivial; however, as an avid cyclist, I was pleasantly surprised by the affordability and ease of travel by car.
A close friend generously lent us her vehicle, and within this region, a powerful SUV is unnecessary; the roads are generally well-maintained, the speed limit is set at 110 km/h, and Brittany is unique in having no tolls (it is the only area in France without motorways). Additionally, I discovered an online map provided by the government that lists fuel prices according to location, which proved to be quite useful for budget considerations.
Parking in Perros-Guirrec proved to be relatively uncomplicated. It can become challenging in smaller coastal towns, allowing us complete freedom of movement without the constant worry of incurring costly fines.
What was the most under-the-radar activity you enjoyed?
We rounded off our expedition with a leisurely trek in the Monts d’Arrée, located just under 100 kilometers from Perros-Guirrec, before embarking on a two-hour return drive to Rennes. This area is significantly less frequented than the Breton coast; however, during the off-season, this mountain range provides a fantastic opportunity to experience complete serenity amidst a stunning landscape of moors and rocks. Regrettably, in 2022, the region experienced a severe fire, yet it continues to maintain its cherished vistas and magnificent forests. Whether in Brittany or elsewhere, if nature provides tranquility, it is essential to reciprocate by protecting it.
What was the handiest thing you packed?
My pair of German army trainers, of course. These shoes are lightweight, comfortable, and sturdy, having been a staple in my wardrobe for nearly eight years at a cost of less than €30 (now priced slightly higher). Originally designed for the German army and developed by Adidas, this vintage model gained popularity when Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela used it as inspiration for a similar design in the early 2000s called Replica.
These trainers have accompanied me on various journeys both within France and internationally. Brittany is no exception, as the region’s unpredictable weather necessitates versatile footwear, particularly for long walks. Additionally, they pair well with more formal attire, as demonstrated during our dinner at Le Bleu Marin.
