Rwanda, often referred to as the ‘Land of a Thousand Hills,’ embodies not only geographical beauty but also aspirations and hope. The journey through this nation is awe-inspiring, representing a remarkable transformation marked by ambition and recovery from a tumultuous past.
Emerging from the shadows of the 1994 Civil War and the subsequent genocide, Rwanda today stands as one of Africa’s cleanest, safest, and economically progressive countries, focused on bridging ethnic divides, reversing poaching trends, and establishing a model for sustainable development that other nations aspire to emulate.
Remembering and Recovering
In the aftermath of the genocide, Rwanda embarked on a profound rebuilding effort. Established in 2009, the Rwanda Development Board was designed to steer the nation’s initiatives in tourism, environmental conservation, foreign investment, and overall economic enhancement. The advantage of rebuilding from the ground up allowed for the undertaking of ambitious ventures.
On a tranquil, tree-lined street in Gisozi, located just outside central Kigali, the atmosphere is reflective and subdued. A sign on one wall proclaims: “We can all be champions of humanity by standing against division wherever we live.” This is the Kigali Genocide Memorial, a museum that meticulously documents the history of the genocide against the Tutsi in Rwanda as well as genocides globally. Over 250,000 individuals are interred on the museum grounds, where survivors have sought solace for years.
The traditional practice of gacaca, which consists of community courts that have long been a part of Rwandan culture for resolving local disputes, was instrumental in this process. For more than a decade, gacaca courts convened weekly across villages, allowing communities the opportunity to confront the accused, recount their experiences, and share narratives of the events. Though not without flaws, gacaca remains one of the most extensive programs of post-conflict justice globally, promoting truth-telling, justice, and, ultimately, reconciliation.
Umuganda and Rwandan Royalty
A brief drive from Gisozi to Butare reveals further aspects of Rwandan heritage. Within the Ethnographic Museum, visitors can explore one of Africa’s most esteemed ethnographic collections, presenting the customs of pre-colonial life in Rwanda.
The museum illuminates the concept of umuganda, which translates from Kinyarwanda to mean “coming together in a common purpose to achieve an outcome.” This practice involves soliciting assistance from family, friends, and neighbors to accomplish a challenging task, and it was reintegrated into Rwandan society after the genocide as a strategy for national rebuilding.
Currently, umuganda is a designated day that occurs on the last Saturday of each month, with visitors encouraged to engage. On this day, community members unite to undertake volunteer projects such as cleaning streets, repairing public facilities, constructing homes for those in need, and more.
Additionally, the King’s Palace Museum situated outside of Kigali provides an opportunity to explore the era of Rwandan royalty, featuring reconstructions of traditional royal abodes, insights into the majestic Inyambo cattle specifically bred for royal ceremonies, and even demonstrations of these cows fulfilling their ceremonial roles.
From Poaching to Protecting
Located in northwestern Rwanda, Volcanoes National Park extends along the slopes of the Virunga massif, a collection of eight magnificent volcanoes spanning Rwanda, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo. This national park is a sanctuary for endangered mountain gorillas—Rwanda is internationally recognized for its silverbacks, and for good reason: per the African Wildlife Foundation, it is the sole great ape species in the world exhibiting a population increase.
While current success is notable, the gorilla conservation initiative at Volcanoes National Park could have unfolded quite differently without the establishment of the Gorilla Guardians Village, which redirected the paths of former poachers toward conservation.
With local community support, the Gorilla Guardians Village project commenced operations in 2004, marking the beginning of significant change. Visitors to Volcanoes National Park engage with the village to experience Rwandan traditional dance, cuisine, and crafts; they may purchase souvenirs while learning the stories of those who once hunted the animals but have now become their protectors.
“Before I joined the Gorilla Guardians Village, I was a hunter,” explains Kabatsi Felicien, a former poacher and now a musician performing on the inanga, a traditional string instrument. “Today, I am a musician. I no longer rely on hunting. Instead, I am here to protect the forest. My songs celebrate the stories of tourists from all over the world, who leave with memories of Rwanda’s traditional music.”
Kigali Arts Scene
Back in Kigali, another narrative of hope has been unfolding at the Nyamirambo Women’s Center. Established in 2007 by a group of women residing in Nyamirambo, one of Kigali’s oldest neighborhoods, the center aims to address gender-based violence, inequality, and discrimination while empowering local women. Currently, it operates as a self-sustaining initiative, offering artisan goods crafted from traditional kitenge fabric, conducting walking tours in Nyamirambo, and facilitating cooking classes within the homes of local women.
“Art is essential for the development of this city,” asserts Emmanuel Nkuranga, a self-taught artist and co-founder of the Inema Arts Center. This multifaceted art gallery and creative hub in Kigali provides community-level art classes, artist-in-residence opportunities for emerging Rwandan artists, and serves as a platform for the flourishing of Rwanda’s creative landscape. Nkuranga is committed to his cause; after nearly a decade at Inema alongside his brother Innocent Nkurunziza, he established Choose Kigali, a multi-level space in the capital that promotes a wider range of contemporary African art and offers distinct artist-led experiences, including helicopter tours combined with painting sessions or insider excursions into Kigali’s blossoming creative scene.
Started by another Rwandan artist, Pacifique Niyonsenga, Niyo Arts Center & Café accommodates 17 resident Rwandan artists at its premises in the central Kacyiru area of Kigali. Regular exhibitions feature contemporary African art, music, and dance performances, with 40 percent of profits benefiting the Niyo Foundation, an organization dedicated to alleviating poverty among women and children.
“When you hear about Rwanda, discussions often revolve around our history of genocide,” observes Nkuranga. “However, when you visit, you encounter color, beauty, and a more profound narrative than what is typically presented in the news.”
He concludes, “This is the essence of our purpose.”
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