Essential Tips for Seamless Island Hopping in Indonesia

With tens of thousands of islands dispersed over approximately 5000km (3100mi) from east to west, Indonesia appears to be anything but a singular entity. Expansive seas, dense jungles, rugged mountains, and challenging road conditions necessitate additional perseverance for those wishing to explore this captivating archipelago.

However, the positive development is that travel has become more accessible in recent years. Air travel has supplanted maritime transport, and highways have advanced into remote locations. Yet, travelers can still opt for slower, traditional methods of transportation that are rich in cultural experience. Here is essential information to navigate Indonesia with efficiency.

Fly to reach the far-flung islands

With the emergence of low-cost airlines, flying has become a common method of travel between and within the islands. Budget-conscious tourists typically choose Citilink, Lion Air, and Sriwijaya Air, whereas those prioritizing punctuality and reliability often prefer the national carrier, Garuda Indonesia. Airfare can vary significantly based on distance, frequency, and airline service quality. For instance, flights from Jakarta to Bali can start as low as US$35, whereas a one-way ticket to Papua may soar to US$350.

The government has actively facilitated the construction of new airports in less accessible tourist locales, such as Labuan Bajo (the gateway to the Komodo Islands), Silangit (for Lake Toba), and Toraja. The days of exhausting journeys are now a thing of the past; dream destinations can now be reached in mere hours from Jakarta. Most flights to Maluku or Papua typically have a layover in Makassar, which serves as the aviation hub for eastern Indonesia.

Take a boat for a genuine island experience

The primary maritime transport operator — government-owned Pelni — connects numerous coastal cities across Indonesia. It is advisable to reserve tickets in advance to ensure seating availability. Journeying from Jakarta to Papua can cost as little as US$70, although it entails a challenging seven-day trip. Proceed with caution.

For shorter, more reliable boat journeys, ferry crossings between islands are a superior choice. The essential island-hopping route involves overland travel through Java, then a crossing to Bali, Lombok, continuing eastward to the Komodo Islands.

Previously, riverboats were the primary mode of transportation in densely wooded areas like Kalimantan, but modern roads have largely displaced them. Nonetheless, passengers can still embark on four to six-day boat tour packages along the Mahakam River to visit traditional Dayak villages deep in the forest.

Trains are a pleasant way to enjoy the rural scenery

Traveling by train may be the most comfortable and dependable means to traverse Java, which houses the majority of Indonesia’s railways. The true delight lies in the mesmerizing views of mystical Javanese volcanoes and lush rice fields accessible from the train window.

Train tickets can be purchased up to a month in advance through the KAI website. Executive Class features reclining seats with robust air-conditioning, providing a remarkable contrast to the tropical climate (be sure to bring a jacket). Conversely, Economy Class seating is static and may become quite crowded.

Additionally, certain regions of Sumatra, including Aceh and North Sumatra, can also be accessed by rail. The Trans-Sulawesi railway initiative has recently commenced around Makassar as well.

Rent a vehicle to explore off-the-beaten-track destinations

The public transportation infrastructure in Indonesia remains notably limited, even in the more developed regions of Java and Bali. Acquiring a personal vehicle provides greater flexibility to explore isolated areas.

Renting a car is straightforward; all that is required is a passport and an international driving permit, and it is important to note that traffic in Indonesia follows the left-hand rule. Car rentals begin at approximately US$40 per day. Be prepared for a range of road conditions, from potholes to severe congestion; employing a local driver may be a preferable option.

In Bali and Lombok, hiring a moped is often the most accessible way to navigate the islands. It is essential to wear a helmet at all times, even if you are riding as a passenger on a motorcycle.

Buses are affordable and convenient

Buses continue to serve as the primary means of land transportation in Indonesia, as they are economical and widely available at almost any time. Advance ticket purchases are typically unnecessary, except during the Eid holidays when millions of Indonesians return to their hometowns.

Among the numerous bus companies nationwide, the government-owned DAMRI offers a vast network and dependable service. Passengers can purchase tickets from their website or through mobile applications.

The economy buses offer the lowest fares, but they are slow and tend to make frequent stops as passengers are picked up along the route. Certain tourist regions such as Yogyakarta and Toraja feature executive bus services equipped with comfortable reclining seats akin to those found in business class airlines.

Beat Jakarta’s traffic jams by using public transport

Jakarta is infamous for being one of the world’s most congested cities; however, its extensive (if not fully integrated) mass transit system alleviates some of the difficulties associated with transportation.

The Transjakarta buses operate on dedicated lanes, circumventing the frustrating traffic conditions. With numerous corridors, routes can become convoluted, but utilizing Trafi applications can provide necessary navigation assistance. Many visitors tend to utilize Corridor 1, as it connects Jakarta’s primary attractions including Kota Tua, Monumen Nasional, Museum Nasional, and Roundabout Hotel Indonesia.

The newly inaugurated MRT Jakarta represents the most current means of transport in Jakarta, though its limited track distance is a concern for many foreign travelers. The same considerations apply to LRT Jakarta.

It is important to note that public transit in Jakarta employs a cashless payment system. Transport cards are available at MRT stations and select Transjakarta bus stops. Top-ups can be conducted at MRT stations or various Alfamart convenience outlets throughout Jakarta.

For a touch of nostalgia, hail a becak

The traditional manual tricycle rickshaw, known as becak, once dominated the streets of Indonesia; however, due to restrictions imposed on main thoroughfares in many cities, they are now largely a remnant of the past. Nevertheless, becaks have not entirely vanished, and can still be encountered in select tourist areas in Jakarta and Yogyakarta, offering visitors a glimpse into Indonesia’s history.

The becak has also transitioned into motorized tricycles—specifically, the bajaj in Jakarta or the bentor (motorized becak) in Sumatra and Sulawesi. They continue to provide locals with economical and practical transportation for short distances. To learn about the becak history, the best place to begin is the Indonesian Becak Museum located in Bali.

Ridesharing apps make life easier

As the populace embraces digital technology, ridesharing applications have become an integral aspect of urban life in Indonesia. The leading, Indonesian-owned Gojek originally aimed to facilitate motorbike taxi services (ojek); however, it has now developed into a comprehensive app enabling users to order taxis, cars, food deliveries, and groceries.

The application is bilingual and includes an automatic chat translation feature to assist in communication with drivers who may not speak English. Gojek operates in over 160 cities throughout Indonesia, even extending to remote locations such as Papua. Regardless of your whereabouts, navigating the area is straightforward with just a few taps on your smartphone.

Accessible travel in Indonesia

Traveling within Indonesia can present substantial challenges for individuals with disabilities. The uneven sidewalks and potholes are quite cumbersome, and vendor stalls often obstruct designated lanes for visually impaired pedestrians. Nevertheless, Jakarta’s primary thoroughfares, Thamrin and Sudirman, along with most modern shopping centers, are constructed with accessibility considerations.

However, the Transjakarta bus system is not recommended for individuals with mobility challenges, as many bus stops necessitate climbing stairways to access overpasses, and passengers must practically leap onto the bus. Conversely, MRT stations, including the Railink airport trains in Jakarta and Medan, are wheelchair accessible.

Despite Bali being the most frequented international tourist destination, it is yet to become wheelchair-friendly. Travelers with special needs can consult specialist operators like Bali Access Travel, and it’s advisable to refer to GoTravelDaily’s Accessible Travel page for comprehensive accessible travel guides.

Why I love getting around Indonesia by boat

Numerous visitors conclude their explorations of Indonesia without experiencing a single boat journey, which is unfortunate, given that water comprises approximately 80% of Indonesia’s total land area. While boat trips can be leisurely, they also provide an invaluable opportunity to immerse oneself in the essence of Indonesia as an archipelagic nation.

A sailing experience from Labuan Bajo to Komodo aboard a traditional pinisi sailboat can be enchanting, complemented by brief snorkeling pauses to engage with stunning manta rays. It is my firm belief that no trip to Indonesia is complete without the experience of its expansive oceans.

This article was first published on Mar 25, 2022, and updated on Dec 6, 2023.