Summary of Naples Dining
Renowned for its culinary scene, Naples is a city rich in food culture, extending beyond the iconic pizza margherita served at Da Michele, as featured in the film Eat Pray Love, or visiting the pizzeria showcasing Sophia Loren’s nostalgia for fried dough in the 1950s.
Dining in vibrant, bustling Naples, rooted in local traditions and warmed by the Mediterranean sun, represents the essence of eating locally. The practice of sourcing seasonal vegetables, fresh seafood, creamy buffalo mozzarella, and aromatic spices at a market is as innate to the Neapolitan lifestyle as the art of home cooking and minimizing waste.
Indulging in fried fish from a paper cone or enjoying an aperitivo at sunset remains perpetually fashionable. Rather than adhering to fleeting trends such as “street food” or “sustainability,” Naples embraces its traditions, offering options for vegans, vegetarians, traditionalists, and nonconformists alike. The city boasts an impressive array of osterie, trattorie, upscale dining, budget-friendly friggitorie (fry shops), and, naturally, pizzerias that have graced the silver screen.
From prestigious pizzerias to restaurants renowned for their seafood, discover Naples’ 14 finest dining establishments.
1. Concettina Ai Tre Santi
Explore La Sanità, a once-avoided area that has transformed into a culinary hotspot, centering around this popular pizzeria, operated by the Oliva family for over 70 years. Under the innovative guidance of pizzaiolo Ciro Oliva, this establishment has thrived, presenting dishes such as artichoke-filled pizza-dough buns and artisanal pizzas accompanied by local craft beers or small-production Campanian wines, creating a true Neapolitan experience.
2. Tandem
It is fortunate that Tandem offers aficionados a chance to savor the robust and savory ragù napoletano (Naples’ meat and tomato sauce, crafted from beef chunks) throughout the week rather than solely on Sundays, as local tradition suggests. This slow-simmered sauce graces the evolving menu in various preparations, with classic pairings of fresh pasta and crunchy bread for an authentic taste of Naples.
3. Antica Pizza Fritta di Zia Esterina Sorbillo
Experience the eclectic blend of high-end artistry and street fare by visiting the Palazzo Reale and then enjoying lunch with the locals at this fried pizza establishment. Pizzaiolo Gino Sorbillo employs the same traditional recipe and equipment as his aunt Esterina used post-WWII, ensuring that this comfort food remains delightful—light, fluffy, and generously filled with ricotta and provola cheeses, as well as ciccoli (fatty pork lard). Enjoy it immediately or watch the pizza deflate upon serving.
4. Cibi Cotti “Nonna Anna”
For those without an Italian nonna, this authentic market eatery—located near the Mercato della Torretta among crates of fruits and vegetables—is an ideal alternative. Locals indulge in flavorful offerings such as trippa al sugo (tripe in tomato sauce), tracchia al ragù (slow-cooked pork rib tips), and ceci e scarole (chickpeas and greens), all prepared with care by Anna Pappalardo until her passing in 2017, with her family continuing her legacy for lunch service only.
5. 50 Kalò
The exemplary attention to detail is evident in the 25 wood-fired pizza varieties at Ciro Salvo’s stylish pizzeria, located moments from the shoreline in the affluent Mergellina district, each paired thoughtfully with a specific extra-virgin olive oil. Organic, sweet San Marzano tomatoes are complemented by artisanal salamis, sought-after DOP cheeses, and unique vegetables produced by independent farms. Be mindful, as there are no table reservations—punctuality is key.
6. Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo
Exit the 17th-century church in Naples’ historic core, celebrated for its tiara-crowned relics, and explore this legendary eatery beloved by local pizza enthusiasts. The thick-crust pizzas, carefully charred and cooked in Gino Sorbillo’s expansive wood-fired oven, exemplify the “ideal Neapolitan pizza,” achieved with a yeast culture passed down through generations of the Sorbillo lineage.
7. Osteria della Mattonella
In the enchanting Spanish Quarter, join Mamma Antonietta and her children at Osteria della Mattonella. The establishment radiates warmth with vintage decor, musical instruments, and 18th-century majolica tiles adorning the space. Delight in traditional dishes that remain consistent since 1978, featuring comforting soups, fresh pasta, octopus salad, Neapolitan polpette (meatballs), and a sublime Genovese sauce, a culinary treasure of the region.
8. Pescheria Mattiucci
Immerse yourself in a maritime ambiance characterized by white tiles and fishing nets at this modest fishmonger in fashionable Chiaia, where mouthwatering pesce crudo (raw fish) is served. The Mattiucci family has been dedicated to fishing and selling fresh catches since the 1890s. Their creations, including marinated swordfish and tuna paired with seasonal fruits and vegetables, are simply remarkable.
9. George
The allure of this Michelin-starred establishment extends beyond its modern Neapolitan cuisine, masterfully blended with French influences, featuring exquisite sauces and a notable nine-course degustazione (tasting menu) devised by chef Domenico Candela, who achieved his training in France. Additionally, the rooftop garden provides mesmerizing views of the Bay of Naples, enriching the overall dining experience.
10. Palazzo Petrucci
Chef Lino Scarallo embodies Neapolitan culinary heritage, drawing inspiration from his family’s legacy of butchery in La Sanità. For him, the act of savoring sauce with bread or enjoying a cuoppo (cone of fried bites) is as vital as reinventing classic dishes in his contemporary seaside restaurant. A 10-minute stroll along the waterfront from Mergellina leads diners to his exquisite offerings such as o ragù e mare (seafood version of the city’s traditional meat sauce) alongside romantic coastal views.
11. Friggitoria Vomero
Experience quintessential Neapolitan street food at this nostalgic fry shop, a classic since 1938, located in the scenic Vomero district. Everything fried in bubbling oil—spaghetti, pizza, eggplant, and various other delights—is heavenly. Order a cuoppo misto (mixed cone) and enjoy your feast against breathtaking city and bay views.
12. Mimì alla Ferrovia
Step into a charming establishment that exudes old-world elegance, where tables are adorned with white linens, ceilings boast frescoes, and walls feature framed photos of distinguished guests, all at this classics-filled ristorante founded by Emilio Giugliano (or Mimì) in 1944, located near the central train station. The traditional Neapolitan menu continues to delight, focusing on stuffed peppers, parmigiana di melanzane (baked eggplant), and spaghetti con vongole veraci (spaghetti with clams).
13. L’Ebbrezza di Noè
At The Drunkenness of Noah, revel in the tempting food and wine selections crafted by sommelier-owner Luca. This venue offers a wide range of over 2,000 wines to complement dishes such as pizza di scarola (calzone-style dough filled with escarole), paccheri fritti (fried pasta with eggplant), or an assortment of seafood delicacies. Enjoying an aperitivo, dinner, or an apericena (a combination of drinks and dinner) fits perfectly within this culinary journey.
14. Umberto
Devotees of Slow Food will appreciate this historic trattoria, which transports visitors back to the interwar period with its original décor and the Di Porzio family’s stewardship since 1916. The well-translated menu highlights local Slow Food products, including specialty salamis, tomatoes, and heirloom beans unique to the Campania region.
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This article was initially published on February 17, 2023, and underwent updates on December 7, 2023.
