My initial visit to Chiang Mai occurred in May of 1992. I came to see a high school friend who had married a local individual – a professor at Chiang Mai University. They introduced me to the regional cuisine and their network of friends and family who welcomed me warmly.
I was captivated. I continued returning annually until I established the first Pok Pok restaurant in Portland, Oregon in 2005. Over the subsequent years, I opened and closed a number of restaurants, authored several cookbooks, and traveled extensively to promote the culinary culture of Thailand, particularly that of Chiang Mai and its adjacent areas.
Over the past 30 years, many aspects of the land of Lanna have transformed, yet one constant remains… Chiang Mai is regarded as one of the premier culinary destinations globally.
Breakfast
In Thailand, breakfast dishes frequently overlap with lunch or dinner offerings; therefore, it is advisable to set aside traditional views of pancakes and scrambled eggs during morning meals. One of my preferred establishments for early meals is the longstanding family-run Phatom, which specializes in rice porridge accompanied by a variety of Chinese/Thai dishes like jap chai (fried sweet Chinese sausage and braised tofu). Just off the first ring road, Laap Dii Khom Khon Yong serves some of the finest Northern Thai laap. You will find satisfaction with laap muu suk (the cooked pork variant) along with presentations such as jaw phak kat (greens soup), kaeng awm (beef shin stew), and grilled pork. This is a potential spot that a local may recommend! However, if you prefer a Western-style breakfast, you may consider The Larder.
Coffee
Thailand has emerged as a significant player in the specialty coffee landscape, with Chiang Mai serving as the epicenter of this trend, featuring countless cafes that offer locally grown and roasted beans. My favorite establishment is Akha Ama, located in the heart of the old town, where highly skilled baristas craft the finest espresso beverages in the city using direct trade coffee sourced from the Akha community in Chiang Rai province. Slightly beyond the city center, the local favorite Flo is situated within a century-old wooden shophouse.
Lunch
In the center of the old city, Yok Fa Pochana offers what is perhaps the most delightful plate of phat si ew (stir-fried noodles) in the region, prepared in a large wok over an open flame using a recipe that has remained unchanged for 50 years. A must-visit is Naam Ngiao Phayao, where communication in English may be limited, yet the welcoming elderly couple managing the place ensures a homely atmosphere. The namesake dish featuring fresh rice vermicelli in a savory, sour, umami-rich curry/soup with pork ribs, soft blood tofu, and dried pistils of the dawk ngiaw (red cotton tree flower) is not to be overlooked, as it represents a vital component of the local culinary tradition, and theirs is among the finest in the region.
Khao Soi Prince serves a distinguished bowl of what has now become the signature dish of Chiang Mai, khao soi (egg noodle soup in a curry broth). Although it requires a 20km journey to the Maejo University area, the experience is worthwhile! The Muslim proprietor, a third-generation cook, continues to handcraft the noodles while preserving a family recipe spanning over forty years. One may order the khao soi neua (noodles in curry accompanied by beef), or as an alternative, try the phat sen khao soi (stir-fried egg noodles) also served with beef!
Aperitivo
Situated in the midst of bustling tourism along Moonmuang Rd, across from the moat, Kafe 1985 is a classic pub where backpackers, expatriates, locals, and discerning culinary enthusiasts converge at twilight for cold beverages and excellent drinking snacks, such as neua daet diaw (sun-dried beef “jerky”) and the ideal version of naem sii khrong muu (sour rice cured pork ribs), which are fried and accompanied by fresh chilis, ginger, and peanuts. A more upscale offering is the rooftop bar at the riverside Anantara, which provides a happy hour selection alongside a picturesque sunset view of the Ping River.
Dinner
While the most outstanding meals in Chiang Mai are likely to be found at lunchtime, remarkable dining options remain available in the evening; thus, aim to dine prior to 9 PM. The premier contemporary restaurant in the city is Maadae Slow Fish Kitchen, where the culinary team serves sustainably sourced seafood and local produce infused with traditional Thai flavors and techniques. The dessert option featuring naturally harvested sago pearls in coconut cream is highly recommended. Rasik Local Kitchen exudes a similar atmosphere and is among the top dining establishments in the vicinity. Their curries are notably flavorful!
Mitmai offers a convenient walk-in experience with an extensive menu of Yunnanese dishes, so order anything featuring Yunnan ham, and don’t miss the cucumber salad with pork chin! A 25-minute drive north leads to Kong Kham, a Northern Thai restaurant where the cuisine is commendable, and the pricing is notably reasonable. Must-try dishes include laap plaa piak (“wet” fish laap), saa phak ruam (a distinctive northern Thai dish composed of hand-crushed raw vegetables, sour herbs, tomatoes, and cooked fish), and the crowd-pleasing kaeng hang leh (Burmese pork belly curry).
Bar
Perhaps I am simply aging, but in recent times, I seek a tranquil venue where a well-crafted cocktail can be enjoyed alongside the soothing strains of jazz. San, located in the Night Bazaar area, provides such an atmosphere perfectly. Ascend to the semi-secret wood-paneled room on the second floor, where a bell on the wall calls a server who will deliver an exquisite daiquiri, a glass of Japanese whisky, or a glass of wine. If you’re feeling hunger pangs, a small menu of izakaya dishes is available. During peak tourist season (November to February), you may wish to call ahead to secure a table upstairs. For an authentic speakeasy experience, locate The White Rabbit, which requires ascending a flight of seemingly precarious steps in an ancient shophouse near Chang Phuak gate. This dimly lit, intimate bar specializes in innovative cocktails that utilize Thai ingredients alongside international spirits. Its discreet location may pose a challenge to locate, so do not hesitate to seek assistance from locals if necessary. Enjoy your exploration.
