Summary
It is no coincidence that the Egyptian obelisk in Catania‘s central square is believed to possess mystical powers to temper Mt Etna. Sicily‘s second-largest city is at the mercy of this active volcano. Europe’s largest volcano buried Catania in boiling lava in 1663 and has erupted at least 80 times in the last century. In August 2024, Mt Etna unleashed a massive eruption cloud that reached 10 km (6 miles) into the sky, covering the city with ash and closing both airports on the Italian island. Therefore, climbing Mt Etna is quite the serious endeavor.
Despite the throngs of visitors drawn to the volcano annually, hiking here constitutes a significant undertaking. The gentle smoke rings emanating from one of its many craters might evoke romantic notions; however, the reality is considerably less alluring. The footpath of lava rocks I traversed with a volcanological guide last July has since vanished, overwhelmed by a new expanse of molten lava that flowed down from Etna’s peak shortly after my departure. “We constructed this path by hand, rock by rock, after the last major eruption in December, and we will certainly build more,” my guide Mirto explained, handing me a fist-sized nugget of lava, still warm seven months later.
Mt Etna is evidently not a mountain to be trifled with. A quintessential combination of high altitude and unpredictable weather, coupled with volcanic activity and a distinct touch of Sicilian unpredictability, necessitates careful planning. Here is how to navigate the complexities of hiking on Mt Etna safely, immerse oneself in its surreal landscapes, and experience the pulse of the Earth in real-time.
Consider the season and weather
With scorching summer temperatures and the high influx of tourists, August in Sicily is not ideal. Snow can persist on Mt Etna’s peak well into April and resurface in November, making the shoulder seasons—April, May, September, and October—the most opportune months for hiking. The climate during spring and fall is generally pleasant, with warmth and sunshine, fewer travelers, and the vibrant purple hues of springtime Saponaria flourishing on Etna’s fecund lower slopes.
Select the appropriate guide
Hiking on Mt Etna is strictly regulated. Ascending an active volcano involves risks and dangers, and it is prohibited to exceed 2500m (8202ft) without an accredited Etna guide. A bewildering array of companies offering guided hikes is available. Ensure that your guide is affiliated with the Collegio Regionale delle Guide Alpine e Vulcanologiche (Regional College of Sicilian Alpine and Volcanology Guides) prior to any financial commitment.
I enjoyed two exhilarating days hiking to Mt Etna’s colossal summit craters (currently off-limits due to the August 2024 eruption), one with highly skilled alpine guide and backcountry skier Mirto Monaco from Gruppo Guide Alpine Etna Sud (the oldest guiding organization in Etna, established in 1804). The second day was spent with environmental biologist and PhD student Giulia Bacilliere, one of only seven female volcanologist guides in Sicily, at Gruppo Guide Etna Nord. The knowledge they shared—such as the jasmine-scented yellow Etna broom thriving among rugged terrain and the various protected snake species in Etna’s eponymous national park—greatly intensified my appreciation and wonder.
Guided treks typically commence at 8:30 am or 9 am, concluding by early afternoon before weather conditions change.
Proper clothing and footwear are essential
Forego beach apparel—approach the Sicilian volcano with the same preparation as one would for a mountain in the Alps. Wear layers, long trousers, and sturdy closed-toe shoes, preferably proper hiking shoes or boots. Even when temperatures are high at lower elevations, conditions can be cold and windy at the summit. Include a wind jacket, warm headgear, and gloves in your day pack. Additionally, bring sunscreen, sunglasses (to protect against dust and sun glare), a snood or scarf (to shield the face from dust and volcanic gas), and ample water. If you wear contact lenses, consider bringing glasses, as dust levels can be extreme.
Any missing equipment, such as hiking boots, warm jackets, and trekking poles for those less stable on their feet, can be rented directly at guides’ huts. Most trekking expenses encompass equipment rental.
Choose between Etna Nord and Etna Sud
There are two approaches to Mt Etna: from the wilder north (closest to Taormina, 30 miles northeast) or the more developed south (closest to Catania, 24 miles southeast).
Etna’s northern slopes, known as Etna Nord, appeal to seasoned hikers seeking a more rugged and untamed experience. Guided treks depart from Piano Provenzana, a small ski resort at 1800m (5905ft) consisting of little more than a single row of wooden huts serving trekking guides. The winding drive up—from the small town of Linguaglossa (30 mins), built in 1556 on an ancient lava flow, or the picturesque village of Giarre (45 mins)—passes through lemon groves, vineyards, beech forests, and surreal fields of solidified black lava. Look for the occasional old stone house partially buried in the lava, now harder than marble and impossible to remove.
Conversely, the busier tourist crowd prefers Etna Sud. Hikes along these popular southern slopes begin at Piazzale Rifugio Sapienza (1910m/6626ft), a vast square named after its eponymous refuge (which includes a restaurant and accommodations), adorned with a plethora of souvenir stalls, sports shops, and fast-food outlets. This is the location to board Mt Etna’s singular cable car, ascending to a panoramic height of 2500m (8202ft). When volcanic activity permits, non-hikers can take a specially designed 4WD bus for further exploration of the lunar-like landscape under the guidance of an accredited instructor.
Challenges in reaching the site
Traveling to the location can be challenging without personal transport. There is no public transit service to/from Piano Provenzana (Etna Nord); however, Go Etna provides reliable minibus transfers from Taormina and Catania and collaborates with reputable guides from Gruppo Guide Etna Nord once on-site. It is advisable to arrange Go Etna tours at least a few days in advance during peak season.
To access Etna Sud, a single daily AST bus travels from Piazza Giovanni XXIII in front of Catania train station to Rifugio Sapienza (2 hours, €6.60). Be advised that purchasing a bus ticket online does not guarantee a seat on the frequently crowded bus, which departs Catania at 8:15 am and arrives well after guided treks have commenced for the day. If by chance a seat is available (which is uncommon, even if you arrive well in advance), tickets can be purchased directly from the driver. The return bus, equally filled, departs Rifugio Sapienza at 4:30 pm.
In Catania, you may find yourself fending off taxi drivers aggressively soliciting business amid the crowds of disappointed bus patrons. A round trip taxi ride from Catania (1 hour) should not exceed €120 for four passengers, including waiting time while you hike. It is prudent to negotiate firmly, pay only half the fare upfront, and save the driver’s contact number in your phone before embarking on your adventure on Mt Etna.
Numerous organized tours leave directly from downtown Catania to Etna Sud. Most will provide pick-up and drop-off service at your hotel.
What to anticipate on the hike
Prepare for dramatic encounters. Trekking routes are defined by volcanic activity—120 seismic cameras, satellites, and sensors installed on Etna’s slopes meticulously record every tremor and physical movement, establishing it as one of the world’s most monitored peaks.
The panorama is diverse and captivating, regardless of the trail you select. Consider traversing barren black lava fields, unearthing last winter’s preserved snow beneath the ash, marveling at gas-emitting fumaroles, and navigating past numerous extinct lateral craters. The exhilarating experience of racing down dusty ash hills, often with grit filling your shoes upon arrival at the bottom, is just one of many highlights. The stunning array of colors—fiery red, ochre, black, and gold—is breathtaking, as is the frequent strong winds and the acrid smell of sulfuric gas encountered at the higher altitudes of the volcanic deserts.
Most guided excursions begin with a ride in a 4WD vehicle (Etna Nord) or a cable car (Etna Sud) to ease the ascent. Some itineraries may explore lava caves. Guides provide protective helmets, which must always be worn. A moderate level of fitness and agility is recommended, particularly for higher-altitude excursions, typically covering 6 km (3.7 miles) in a timeframe of four to five hours.
Hiking with children and inexperienced hikers
Families with infants and inexperienced hikers need not miss the adventure. The gentler lower slopes at approximately 2000m (6560ft) are easily accessible from Etna Sud’s Rifugio Sapienza, offering engaging opportunities. From Ristorante Crateri Silvestri, a flat and user-friendly 1 km (0.6-mile) footpath encircles the summit of the extinct Silvestri Crater built in the late 19th-century. Opposite, another clearly marked path (25 minutes) ascends steeply, leading to a crater formed from a 2001 eruption.
An excellent way to reduce walking is to utilize the cable car. From the top, you can marvel at the stunning array of lateral craters that are scattered across Etna’s vast slopes below, enjoy a refreshment while taking in the lunar landscape at the café at the top station, and effortlessly return down without engaging much effort.
