My fascination with the Balkans has spanned over 15 years of exploration. Belgrade – known for its dynamic nightlife, brutalist architecture, and vibrant taverns – remains an ideal destination for an ultimate and economically feasible weekend getaway.
Although it has taken time, it appears as though the capital of Serbia is gaining deserved recognition, supported by its selection as the host for EXPO 2027 and a subsequent government investment pledge of $18 billion in the nation’s infrastructure.
This guide will navigate through the city’s prominent attractions, incorporating a selection of my personal favorites. It will delve into Belgrade’s rich cultural heritage and its evolving culinary landscape, along with its buzzing nightlife. Prepare for several late nights.
Practical Tips
When to arrive: Commence your adventure on Friday morning, departing on Monday. This schedule provides ample time to explore key attractions and enjoy nightlife, with a moment to recover on Sunday evening for those recuperating from the excitement of the previous night.
How to get from the airport: Utilize the A1 minibus or local bus 72, which operates between the airport and the city center. While a brief taxi ride exists, be cautious of exorbitant fares. The advisable method for taxi services is to arrange a ride via the information desk located near the baggage claim, resulting in a receipt containing the fare. Expect a fare close to 2400–2900 RSD (€20–25).
Getting around town: A single ticket for the bus or tram is approximately 50 RSD, purchasable from MojKiosk stands or via SMS through the Belgrade Plus website. Daily unlimited BusPlus cards are also obtainable on the site. Taxis are readily available; look for vehicles displaying a prominent taxi sign or consider downloading the Pink Taxi app for added convenience.
Where to stay: Townhouse 27 provides a chic boutique accommodation option on a quiet street in central Belgrade, close to Republic Square. Notable chains such as Mama Shelter and welcoming hostels like Hidden Gem are also suitable alternatives.
What to pack: Daytime casual attire is optimal, preferably incorporating layers, while a coat is essential during the colder months. Remember that indoor smoking is still permissible in the hospitality sector, which may impart a smoky scent to your clothing when exiting establishments.
Friday Itinerary
Morning: Upon checking into your hotel, proceed to Republic Square, a prominent central hub in Belgrade. On foot, navigate down Francuska Street toward the fashionable Dorćol neighborhood for a caffeine boost. I recommend DRIP Speciality Coffee (popular for its resident dog), though numerous fine cafes abound in Dorćol, offering a range of choices. Alternatives like Forum and D59B are excellent nearby options.
Stroll to Kalemegdan Park to explore its extensive grounds, famously home to Belgrade Fortress. Wander through Stambol Gate to arrive at the viewpoint, offering panoramic vistas of the city and the majestic confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers.
How to spend the day: Catch a taxi to Skadarlija for lunch. This cobbled bohemian quarter served as a gathering place for destitute Yugoslav poets and writers during the 20th century—akin to a Belgrade version of Montmartre, twinned in 1977. Stroll along the tree-lined avenues, visiting local art galleries and antique stores before indulging in one of the diverse restaurants. A local favorite is Dva Jelena, known for its live music and classic local dishes like homemade pork sausage, or consider Tri šeira, named after a former craft workshop. A visit to the National Museum of Serbia should follow lunch—a mere six-minute walk away—offering a captivating mix of ancient artifacts, medieval art, and contemporary exhibitions.
Dinner: Belgrade is renowned for its kafane (traditional cafes or taverns) that serve Serbian cuisine in an authentic environment characterized by red and white checkered tablecloths and wood interiors, often accompanied by live performances. For your inaugural evening, consider dining at Znak Pitanja (“Question Mark”), situated near the waterfront and recognized as one of the city’s oldest surviving kafane. Try the beef goulash or prebranac (a baked bean dish typically prepared with lardons). The punjena paprika (stuffed pepper filled with minced meat and vegetables) is also delectable. Accompany your meal with pickles and a salad.
After dark: Belgrade’s nightlife is legendary, particularly its splavovi, or “river-barge nightclubs,” providing a distinctive atmosphere. Numerous options exist; traverse between bars before selecting a club. 20/44 is favored among locals, especially for electronic music (with occasional jazz). Conversely, if electronic music does not appeal, consider Lasta, known for vibrant pop, funk, and R&B nights (the popular Sunday afternoon event known as the Lasta Matinee has a more relaxed ambiance). During summer, expect considerable crowds.
Saturday Itinerary
Morning: Begin your Saturday in Zemun, a charming district located along the banks of the Danube River. Once a border settlement between the Ottoman and Austrian Empires, Zemun only officially integrated into Belgrade in 1934, preserving a unique character. Enjoy a traditional uščipci (a type of doughnut) for breakfast at Ciribu Ciriba and spend the morning ambling through the area. Ensure you visit Gardoš Tower (also referred to as the Millennium Tower), renowned for its stunning views, and take a leisurely stroll along the riverside.
How to spend the day: The city’s unique brutalist and modernist architecture are among my favorite aspects of Belgrade. Dedicate your afternoon to exploring its significant buildings, either independently or as part of a guided tour (such as those offered by Yugotour, who will transport you in a classic socialist-era Yugo car). If choosing to explore unaided, don’t overlook the iconic Genex Tower (also known as the Western City Gate) or the Palace of Serbia, housing the government. You may also visit the Silos at the city’s edges, where regular street and cultural events occur. Conclude your day by visiting the Museum of Contemporary Art, featuring a distinct triangular design by post-WWII architects Ivan Antić and Ivanka Raspopović, or opt for the Museum of Yugoslavia, though located approximately a 20-minute car ride away.
Dinner: Several chefs in Belgrade are revolutionizing the local gastronomy scene. The Michelin-starred Istok (Vietnamese) offers an excellent selection of pho and banh baos (steamed buns filled with pork, fish, or duck). Angry Monk excels in sushi and cocktails. For a fine dining experience, Homa presents dishes such as bone marrow and mustard ice cream, alongside a traditional roasted suckling pig. The establishment also offers a seasonal tasting menu highlighting local produce like kajmak (an unripened cheese reminiscent of salty clotted cream) or smoked meats, with a wine pairing option. For a more budget-friendly meal, visit Iva New Balkan Cuisine, where main course prices typically range between €14–21 (the standard lunch price hovers around €14.50), all conveniently located in Dorćol.
After dark: After dinner, head to Cetinjska for some pre-drinks. Once a hub for a brewery and large parking lot, this area evolved into a vibrant industrial-style drinking destination since bars relocated here in 2015 following the brewery’s bankruptcy. Berlin Monroe provides a lively atmosphere (the last time I visited, regulars were enthusiastically singing ’90s pop hits). Once you feel adequately warmed up, take a taxi to the renowned nightclub Drugstore, located in a repurposed slaughterhouse, where the party generally kicks off around 2 AM, continuing through to Sunday morning. It is advised to secure advance tickets; if sold out, Karmakoma next door also hosts popular techno nights.
Sunday Itinerary
Morning: Awaken amidst the lively atmosphere of Kalenić Market, where local vendors offer a variety of seasonal fruits, vegetables, cheeses, cured meats, and an extensive range of homemade baked goods, pickles, jams, and preserves. Enjoy a coffee at one of the market’s cafes while soaking in the ambiance.
How to spend the day: Stroll to Sveti Sava Temple, the largest Orthodox church in Serbia. Admire its breathtaking interior, including the meticulously crafted mosaic dome, before proceeding to the UNESCO-protected archives at the Nikola Tesla Museum. Should hunger strike, visit Pekara Trpković —Slavija, among the oldest bakeries in Belgrade, known for its superb burek (a flaky pastry typically filled with meat or cheese).
If time permits, enjoy your burek while heading toward the Old Palace, the former royal residence of the Serbian Obrenović Dynasty (approximately a 15-minute walk away), and then proceed to the bustling pedestrian street, Knez Mihailova. Enjoy some shopping while exploring the assortment of high-street brands, designer stores, perfumeries, and souvenir shops. Conclude your stroll at one of the numerous cafes or bars, particularly towards the end of the street near Pariska Street, where you can unwind with a well-deserved beverage. On sunny days, street artists and musicians enliven the area, showcasing the beauty of the surrounding classic 19th-century Balkan architecture.
Dinner: Conclude your culinary journey with a delightful meal at Kafana Suvobor. The value here is remarkable, as prices are reasonable while the cuisine is flavorful. Begin with rich flatbread accompanied by ajvar (a roasted red pepper dip) and kajmak. Follow with ćevapi (kebabs), sausage, and smoked pork neck. The roasted potatoes cooked with smoked pork lardons until soft and sticky are an absolute must-try. A Srpska salad (akin to Greek salad) pairs well, as do the roasted peppers in oil. The entire meal, including two glasses of wine, will set you back around €50.
After dark: Belgrade boasts a thriving craft beer scene, so cap off your trip with drinks at one—or several—of its local pubs. Gunners Pub, Samo Pivo, and BeerSheep are conveniently located within walking distance of Kafana Suvobor. Živjeli!
