Summary
Our slow travel series investigates how one can embark on more mindful journeys by train, boat, bus, or bike – providing insights on reaching your no-fly destination and exploring activities along the route. In this instance, Austin Bush narrates his experience traveling from Seville, Spain, to Lisbon, Portugal, via land.
Having spent two exhilarating days in Seville, indulging in the culinary delights of countless tapas bars, I experienced perhaps the most enjoyable dining moments of my life. Yet, as with all splendid experiences, I had to return to Lisbon. While direct flights exist between these cities, I aimed to appreciate the charm of southern Iberia more intimately.
The spaciousness and amenities provided by train travel made it a natural preference over bus transport. However, the absence of international train connections between Spain and Portugal indicated that my journey would neither be straightforward nor rapid – yet where is the adventure in that?
After two train rides, a bus trip, navigating through two transport hubs, and nearly 15 hours of travel, I finally arrived at my destination. Although a quicker route could be taken, the true essence of slow travel lies in taking time to explore and relish one’s surroundings. Here is a detailed account of my journey from Seville to Lisbon by train.
Saying farewell to Seville
I commenced my journey at 7:45 am on a Sunday morning at Seville’s contemporary Santa Justa Train Station by boarding a nearly empty “medium distance” Renfe train bound for Huelva.
Spain’s Renfe trains are, in my observation, comfortable and efficient. I unfolded the tray, connected my laptop, and tethered my phone (even with all the other conveniences, the WiFi often appears to fail), allowing me to address some work-related tasks.
As a picturesque tableau of arid rolling hills, olive groves, and the occasional whitewashed hamlet unfolded outside my window, I was reminded of certain regions in northern California. After just under two hours, I arrived in the port city of Huelva.
First stop: Huelva
Regrettably, there are no luggage storage facilities at Huelva’s train or bus station, necessitating that I retain my bag. The town is a brief ten-minute walk from the station, where I enjoyed a quintessential Spanish breakfast comprised of chocolatey churros. Subsequently, I leisurely walked approximately half a mile to Muelle de Riotinto, widely recognized as Huelva’s principal attraction – a majestic two-level, 19th-century iron pier extending into the marshy inlet, providing views of both the city and the extensive salt flats beyond.
After a delightful stroll along the coastline, I returned to Huelva’s seemingly desolate city center (it was indeed a Sunday morning). I set my sights on tasting grilled cuttlefish – locals, referred to as choqueros, are particularly fond of choco, the local term for this delicacy.
Unfortunately, Bar “Agmanir,” a highly recommended seafood establishment serving this dish, was closed. Eventually, I ended up at Bar Los Maestres, located steps from the bus station, where I sampled another popular regional product, vinho de laranja – a sweetened, fortified wine infused with bitter orange peels.
Just 60 km (37 miles) westward lies Portugal, and although Vila Real de Santo António, the closest Portuguese town to the border, possesses a train station, it is disconnected by rail from other locations. Thus, my subsequent segment of travel would take place aboard a bus to Faro, the principal travel hub in southern Portugal.
Getting to Faro by bus
At 1:50 pm, I boarded a fully occupied bus at Huelva’s conveniently located bus station and spent the next hour and a half traversing a highway flanked by orange groves, arid hills, greenhouses, and woodlands with fluffy foliage. We traversed a bridge over the Guardiana River, casually transitioning from Spain to Portugal. I opted for a nap and listened to a podcast rather than attempt to work in the very constrained space.
Upon my arrival in Faro, I had approximately four hours to spare before my final train journey. My early lunch felt like a distant memory, prompting me to hail a taxi for a brief ride just outside the city center for a late lunch. O Tintol offers a unique grilled fish buffet – a concept that may be exclusive to Portugal – featuring sides representative of southern Portuguese cuisine.
Following lunch, I took a taxi back to central Faro. Once again, there were no luggage storage facilities at either the train or bus stations, so I employed Nannybag for the first occasion – an app-based solution for luggage storage. I left my bag at a clothing boutique near the train station, enabling me to explore the town freely.
The historical center of Faro features an ancient wall, part of which can be ascended for vistas of the marshy surroundings. The town also hosts several notable churches – one of which, Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, boasts a chapel adorned with the bones of former monks – and its medieval city center is invitingly compact, making it a pleasure to explore on foot.
After a couple of hours of exploration under the sun, I found respite at one of several open-air cafes lining Faro’s elegant marina. I listened to fishermen engage in conversation while watching boats returning to dock. Just offshore lie five islands, which are frequently connected to the city by ferries. It occurred to me that Faro could easily merit an overnight visit.
Nevertheless, I needed to catch my train! At 6:15 pm, I boarded a Comboios de Portugal (CP) train from Faro to Lisbon. The sunset approached as we departed, and as daylight diminished, the train traversed through the sparsely wooded hills characteristic of Portugal’s Algarve and southern Alentejo regions. I was again able to plug in and address my work responsibilities during this segment, further appreciating this new mobile workspace.
Arriving home
After a little over three hours – nearly 15 hours after I boarded that train in Seville – we arrived at Lisbon’s Entrecampos Train Station. Despite experiencing no delays throughout the journey, I felt exhausted. I secured a taxi and, at last, returned home.
How to make it happen
Tickets
I purchased nearly all my tickets – from Renfe, CP, and FlixBus – in advance via the respective applications of these companies. The train tickets – US$12.70 for Renfe, approximately US$26 for CP – were consistent with prices I had encountered previously. The bus ticket, costing nearly US$30, appeared exorbitant for a journey lasting only an hour and 20 minutes, but my options were limited.
Food and drink
Long-distance Renfe and CP trains feature dining cars; however, the selections are limited – typically consisting of snack bags, simple sandwiches, and beverages. I was keen to integrate local cuisine into my journey, hence I accounted for dining options at transit points.
Facilities
There is a notable absence of luggage storage amenities at smaller- and medium-sized bus and train stations in both Spain and Portugal, which presents a challenge for this form of travel. In the future, I would again utilize Nannybag or a comparable app service.
